What kind of wrenches are you using to adjust the length of your shocks and what is your procedure. The adjuster and locking nut are in a hard spot to get to when they are mounted. Is there a trick to doing this? I'm trying to find some cheap steel 1" wrenches that I can bend to make work but not having much luck.

 

It's not much consolation but I've had the same problem and I've resigned myself to changing ride height by removing the shock from my VTR. A crowfoot wrench or a wrench bent as you describe might work but I'd still be concerned about buggering up the adjuster nuts.

 

Just ask Jamie, he knows everything.

 

I bought some of those little wrenches at sears. the kind that have only the little box end and then they clamp onto a socket wrench - then with an extension to get the wrench low enough you can get enough torque to losen the lock nut. adjusting nut is easier if you unweight the rear end obviously so remember to do that. Small changes and then ride and test. Using that I have gotten in there without removing the shock - not easy but can be done.

 

Bending a wrench is probably your best bet. The trick is not crank it tight - it doesn't take much. Just get it tight enough that the nut doesn't back off and you'll be fine.

Good luck!

 

these were the wrench ends I was trying to describe

http://www.fast-autos.net/diecast-ca...0504532494.jpg

 

Crow foot wrenches.

 

I purchased from Fastenal (http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/p...N-gj4wke&Nty=0) the following wrenches:

Armstrong 1" Single-head, open end "Thin Pattern Pump Wrench" PN 22-032 (http://www.armstrongtools.com/ECommerce/product.aspx)

Armstrong 1" x 3/8" drive crowfoot wrench PN11-860 (http://www.armstrongtools.com/ECommerce/product.aspx)

Note that the open end wrench head is only 1/4" thick, which is required because the Penske R-H clevis nut & jamb nut are very thin and close together. I ground down the crowfoot wrench (on the opposite side from the mfgrs stamped ID info) to a 1/4" head thickness.

If I recall correctly (I bought mine in 06-04 & rebuilt it in 09-07 and its really due for a freshening), the lower bolt to the linkage must first be removed (I hang my MCs off the rear subframe from a stand I built that fits on my Handy Lift and shim up the rear tire to maintain swing arm position), the jamb nut loosened while restraining the bottom section where the clevis threads into, turn the clevis in our out (for shorter or longer OA length). I think I lengthened my 2-way (8983 series w-remote compression) about +1/8", and have the compression on 3 & rebound on about 16 for my 220 naked frame; don't remember off-hand the spring wt.

Go to: http://www.penskeshocks.com/Downloads.php