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I finally found a solution for the crappy old style unsealed stator connector
Not a cheap option at about $16 per set
And a huge stumbling block for common use for most here, it needs a $300 OEM HDT-48-00 crimp tool or a $400 DMC AF8 M22520/1-01 crimp tool frame and a $130 positioner turret for this specific Milspec terminal pin and socket used in the Deutsch DTP body
And of course in the DTP high amp series , only 2 and 4 place body's are available. But overall size on the 4p one is still ok for a VTR use, so thats what Im going with.
A possible solution would be to have connector pig tails made and user install them via a uber high quality Mil / AV spec crimp splice..but now your back to a pricey crimp tool..
Or a pig tail the end user solders on and protects with dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink tube like Raychem dr25 ...the down side, and the reason I went to plug and play cables for my RR kits.. The kit, the install the final product would then relies on a perfect soldiered joint.. Something I rarely see in DIY stuff posted online.
I have the connector kits and crimp tool frame on hand now, the new DMC turret is set to be delivered today ...
Some quick crimps on my chosen test bed bike (lol mine) and some wire pull tests and we will see what we see
Last edited by E.Marquez; Feb 18, 2020 at 09:25 AM.
As I'm sure you know, Dave at Eastern beaver sells all sorts of sealed connectors. I've been using his Packard-Delphi Mertri-Pack 280 & 630 series connectors for years for the several Mosfet VR/R conversions I've done. Decent pricing and fast delivery, no special crimper just some needle nose, experience and soldering skills required...
Thanks yes I have used many hundreds of weatherpak connectors and considered them for this use..
Personally I dont think it the weatherPak better connector for the size it is. I also do not feel they should be crimped with pliers, and solder used... Clearly you made it work, and thats great to hear.
But its not anything I would ever put my name behind nor could I send out a bunch of loose parts and have even a hope most would do anything but make a mess of it and have the whole thing fall apart.
If a crimp can not be done as spec'ed I think most would just be better off soldering the connection.. and if thats the case, and the end user can solder well, forget the connector, and just solder and once every 10 years or what ever when they need to disconnect the stator, cut them
