Need Some Carb Setup Insight
04-30-2013, 07:43 AM
#31
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
If you open the choke when the bike is warm and running, AND under power (throttle open), if it's running right then the bike should stumble a bit.
Twins (well, this twin anyway) generally like to be run a little richer than I4's. It's also a little safer. Lean is mean, meaning it makes more power, but it also runs hotter and you risk burning a valve or whatnot. Lean also affects driveability in that you get some surging and stumbles, and sometimes a backfire through the carbs. A little richer is safer, but doesn't make quite as much power, but has great driveability, and keeps the cylinder cooler. Too rich and you get bogging and less power, you can smell it in the exhaust, and you get sooty deposits on your plugs, valves, and exhaust.
Twins (well, this twin anyway) generally like to be run a little richer than I4's. It's also a little safer. Lean is mean, meaning it makes more power, but it also runs hotter and you risk burning a valve or whatnot. Lean also affects driveability in that you get some surging and stumbles, and sometimes a backfire through the carbs. A little richer is safer, but doesn't make quite as much power, but has great driveability, and keeps the cylinder cooler. Too rich and you get bogging and less power, you can smell it in the exhaust, and you get sooty deposits on your plugs, valves, and exhaust.
04-30-2013, 12:00 PM
#32
Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 133
If you open the choke when the bike is warm and running, AND under power (throttle open), if it's running right then the bike should stumble a bit.
Twins (well, this twin anyway) generally like to be run a little richer than I4's. It's also a little safer. Lean is mean, meaning it makes more power, but it also runs hotter and you risk burning a valve or whatnot. Lean also affects driveability in that you get some surging and stumbles, and sometimes a backfire through the carbs. A little richer is safer, but doesn't make quite as much power, but has great driveability, and keeps the cylinder cooler. Too rich and you get bogging and less power, you can smell it in the exhaust, and you get sooty deposits on your plugs, valves, and exhaust.
Twins (well, this twin anyway) generally like to be run a little richer than I4's. It's also a little safer. Lean is mean, meaning it makes more power, but it also runs hotter and you risk burning a valve or whatnot. Lean also affects driveability in that you get some surging and stumbles, and sometimes a backfire through the carbs. A little richer is safer, but doesn't make quite as much power, but has great driveability, and keeps the cylinder cooler. Too rich and you get bogging and less power, you can smell it in the exhaust, and you get sooty deposits on your plugs, valves, and exhaust.
To my surprise, the choke works as expected for cold starts / warming up, however once the bike is warm and running in ~ 78* ambient temperature, even pulling the choke out a little (at idle) caused the bike to instantly die.
This (according to Hawk (and I agree)) proved I was running rich on the pilots. Ideally the bike should have run *worse, but not die all together. I moved from 2 1/2 2 1/4 turns f & b to 1/4 turn in on both. 2 1/4 front 2 back.
Here is my current *fine tuning thread:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-carb-q-30114/
Last edited by WhOrD; 04-30-2013 at 12:03 PM.
05-04-2013, 05:06 PM
#33
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Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 267
I GOT IT!!! figured it out today, I went to the second notch on the needles and it was awful So I went back to the third notch and took the mixture screws another half a turn out and its great tons of power , pulls the wheel just power on ,
THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP
THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP
07-14-2013, 07:10 AM
#34
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 142
I went to tune my hawk and found a little surprise.. after some research manly on the UK site, I found what I had.. two brotehrs pipes/and block off plates. K&N air filter, 188, 182 Main jets and adjustable needles = Factory pro kit oh and 45 pilot jets.
The bike runs really nice and has been setup like this for years. 76,000km on it at this point. if your tunning with after market needles you may want to take a look at the UK site advice, very well explained.
Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
The bike runs really nice and has been setup like this for years. 76,000km on it at this point. if your tunning with after market needles you may want to take a look at the UK site advice, very well explained.
Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
07-14-2013, 05:29 PM
#35
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 397
Well thank so kindly sir. What a lot of new users tend to neglect is a little bit of carb theory and an understanding of what controls what and how one thing effects another within carbs.
It's all well and good us saying you may be this or that or you should drop down one size here or go up one size there, and we can to a degree get people on the right track. If we don't because the posters description is not as accurate as they think or some vital info has been left out, it can turn into a bit of guesswork. Then what we advice is still not necessarily bad, at least it gets people used to stripping the carbs down and changing things, playing or experimenting with settings if you like! Then they start to get the feel for things and how one thing affects another. IMO this is the best way to learn.
We can help to a point but when it gets down to fine tuning things it gets tricky, but hopefully by this point the user has learnt enough to diagnose and realise what needs doing.
One thing to remember is that every bike is going to be slightly different because of climate conditions, the amount of wear and tear on engines, different mods, exhaust etc. No two bikes will have the exact same set up. They may be close but they wont be the same.
(:-})
It's all well and good us saying you may be this or that or you should drop down one size here or go up one size there, and we can to a degree get people on the right track. If we don't because the posters description is not as accurate as they think or some vital info has been left out, it can turn into a bit of guesswork. Then what we advice is still not necessarily bad, at least it gets people used to stripping the carbs down and changing things, playing or experimenting with settings if you like! Then they start to get the feel for things and how one thing affects another. IMO this is the best way to learn.
We can help to a point but when it gets down to fine tuning things it gets tricky, but hopefully by this point the user has learnt enough to diagnose and realise what needs doing.
One thing to remember is that every bike is going to be slightly different because of climate conditions, the amount of wear and tear on engines, different mods, exhaust etc. No two bikes will have the exact same set up. They may be close but they wont be the same.
(:-})
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