Modifications - Performance Discuss aftermarket and DIY performance modifications

The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap

Old 11-12-2010, 09:02 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap

I just started my winter project . . . swapping out my stock front end with a 06-07 CBR1000RR. I have never done anything even close to this, so this has been interesting so far. I thought I'd try to detail my (mis)adventures here for others to learn from and ridicule. So here it goes . . .

Parts I bought:
1. All from same bike (06-07 CBR1000RR): eBay ($760 shipped)
- Forks, lower triple, brake master cylinder, calipers, brake lines, wheel, rotors
2. Aftermarket new top triple clamp for 06-07 CBR1000RR eBay ($100 shipped)
3. Aftermarket new front fender (black unpainted plastic) from eBay ($50 shipped)
4. Tapered stem bearings from All ***** Racing ($40 shipped)
5. Used front axle and bolt from eBay ($20 shipped)
6. Apex clip-on fully adjustable bars ($200 shipped)

TOTAL: $1170

Tools I bought (so far, probably more to come):
1. Jumbo metric socket set (for axle bolt, steering stem bolts) $40 w/ coupon at Harbor Freight
2. Torque wrench $10 w/ coupon at Harbor Freight


METHOD:
Propped the bike up using two car stands under my T-rex frame sliders. Had to put the stands on cinder blocks to get them up high enough, but it's working well.Name:  photo8.jpg
Views: 124
Size:  80.7 KB

Trying to use only the tools I already own (just basic stuff, nothing fancy).

DAY ONE (Monday 8Nov2010) 1 hour of work
Started out thinking I would get the wheel and forks off today, but quickly realized this was going to be more involved than I had thought. Ended up only getting the side fairings off, which was a humbling experience. Also realized I hadnít thought about some things, like how to get the weights out of the stock bars (yes, there are weights IN the bars. Who knew!?!?!), and whether or not they would fit in my new clip-ons. And how exactly am I going to move the radiators back?? After really looking at it with the fairing off, it doesnít seem as easy as I thought it would be.

Also realized that I need to be EXTREMELY meticulous throughout this process, and label and document everything that I do so I can get all of this back together weeks or months from now, because I wonít remember what I did otherwise.

Also underestimated how much room I would need. Very soon, I will have two front ends, both in pieces, scattered around my garage, along with all the crap thatís usually in there. Just keeping track of where everything is located is taking some work. So much for getting a car in the garage . . .

In addition, there will be sections of this swap that will be difficult to do completely by myself. A second pair of hands would be very helpful.

Last, even with all of the issues just in the first hour, this is going to be more fun and more educational than I anticipated. I think Iím getting addicted to this.

DAY TWO (TUESDAY 9Nov2010) 20 minutes
I got the bar weights out this afternoon. I wasnít sure if I could just yank them out and not break anything, and it took a lot of pulling and lubing, but it finally popped out (and I bent my needle-nose pliers in the process). It looks like I should be able to reuse those weights in the Apex clip-ons.Name:  photo.jpg
Views: 112
Size:  105.3 KBName:  photo2.jpg
Views: 105
Size:  88.6 KB

DAY THREE (THURSDAY 11 NOV2010) 7 hours
I got the stock triple tree off today. The steering stem nut uses a 30mm socket, which I had to buy. And instead of buying the "special" tool for removing the locking nuts under the steering stem nut (I don't know what these are called), I found that a 42mm 12-point socket would grab onto it without any modifications, so smooth sailing so far.

To save some money and/or time, use this socket on this nut.Name:  photo13.jpg
Views: 123
Size:  55.9 KB

The stock bearing outer races popped out after a few whacks with a long screwdriver and hammer. But not sure how easily the new outer races will fit in. They are in the freezer right now hopefully shrinking. I plan to use the old races and a hammer (and maybe some PVC pipe if needed) to drive them in. I'm not looking forward to that, especially the lower one (hammering up isn't fun).

The CBR1000RR lower triple still had the old inner race on it, and it was a pain to get off. I used a thin chisel and a hammer to get between the race and the triple, and then drove it off as carefully as I could. I scratched the triple a little in the process, but it could have been a lot worse.

The new inner race went on relatively easy. I cut through the old inner race in one spot using a dremel so it would expand easier (and thus be removed easier if it got stuck), and then used it, along with a driver and hammer, to drive on the new inner race.

I am using CBR1000RR triples (instead of the more popular 929/954), and I definitely need to move the radiators back, especially on the left side. I'm still looking for aluminum bars to fab up my brackets for that. There doesn't look like there's a lot of room to move the radiators back without hitting something (like the temp sensor). But I only need about an inch or less, and others were successful, so . . .

I'm not sure if the CBR1000's lower triple has the steering stops located differently than the CBR929/954, but my steering stops on the triple are going to need filed down on the inside (the side that makes contact with the frame stops). Even moving the radiator back, there would be very limited steering range, especially on the left side (like maybe half the stock angle). I'm planning on using a mill file to file them down. In retrospect, I should not have driven the new inner race on the triple when I did. It's making filing the steering stops difficult (trying to avoid getting metal shavings in the bearing, and just generally getting in the way). But I'm sure as hell not taking them off now that they're on.

Over the weekend, I plan on getting those outer races installed, filing the steering stops down, and moving my radiator (assuming I can find the aluminum bar that I need). Then the main step I'm dredding, bolting the triple up and seeing if it all fits.

More to come . . .


Last edited by evines; 11-14-2010 at 02:32 PM.
evines is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 09:16 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
MotoGP
 
7moore7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,867
7moore7 is on a distinguished road
Sounds like you're committed now! - Pics would be fun...

I'm finding that using zip-lock bags works amazing for storing/labeling. I've been recommended rubbermaid style containers but the zip lock seem to take up less space and I have a billion of them so am not worried about using ones for very specific parts (ex. left handle bar mounting molts, etc.)

You may be able to put masking tape on the bearings or tape plastic wrap over to keep them metal shavings out...

Oh, and if you have your shipping containers still you can store your old parts in the equivalent shipping boxes to save space/protect them.
7moore7 is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 09:16 AM
  #3  
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
 
Tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Tweety is on a distinguished road
A hot tip for the radiators... Just loosen the clamps and wiggle the hoses enough for them to pop loose... Won't leak excessively and you can then slip them further up the pipe when moving the radiators back and just cut the excess... Don't even need to drain them if you are lazy...

Also, there are two ways for making the new mounts... One way, measure, measure, measure, re-measure then drill/bend whatever and make a mount going over the two of them... PITA... My version make 4 equal pieces with about 1 1/4" distance between the holes, clamp them together and drill the holes... Then bend them in a slight S curve and stick them on with finger tight bolts... Move the rads about until they fit nicely and then torque the bolts and cut the various hoses...

The steering stops needed to be extended or "shimmed" slightly on the contact surface on the 929/954's and filed down on the "backside" to clear the mount for the fairing/cluster... Dunno exactly what the difference is to your triple...

BTW why the axle & bolt ? Where they missing from the first set? You got the wheel right?
Tweety is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 09:43 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
7moore7- I never thought of using tape or taping plastic around it. Thanks! I was wrapping a rag around it, but it kept moving. Tape, duh!

And I am using plastic bags for the small parts. I thought I wouldn't be able to mix up the big parts, but that was before I had 40 big parts from two different bikes on the floor of my garage . . .

Tweety- My first idea was to use 4 separate brackets, so I made those last night (but without a bend). But I liked how the one-piece design looked. I'll have to revisit my original idea, and think about bending the bracket. I might need to bend the braket to get the radiators on the same plane, right?

The steering stops on the 1000 are much further back (closer to the frame) than the stock 'hawk's. The positive is that they don't hit the gage mount in that location, but the negative is that I can't steer. I'm working on a solution and will take pictures of what I come up with. But beware, it will probably be ugly.

The wheel didn't come with the axle (but it did come with all spacers), so I had to order the axle separately. I got my CBR parts from a guy who was swapping out all of his stuff with chromed/aftermarket/upgraded parts. I got really nice looking parts, but paid a little more than I anticipated.

And I plan on taking pictures. If anyone has any picture requests while I have it apart, ask now . . .
evines is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 10:10 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
MotoGP
 
7moore7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,867
7moore7 is on a distinguished road
I like the destruction pictures best- but don't go out of your way; just if you have a camera handy and feel like posting...
7moore7 is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 01:18 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
SuperBike
 
Gregw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles ish
Posts: 1,031
Gregw is on a distinguished road
I made radiator tabs that moved everything back about .8". I used 1"x 1/8" aluminum. To get the bends, I used two spare pieces of the aluminum and staggered the tabs in a vice with one spare piece on either side of the tab, but at opposite ends. (Make sense?). I also modified the fairing brackets that mount to the bottom of the radiators.
Attached Thumbnails The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap-radbracket.jpg  
Gregw is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 01:52 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
Superstock
 
t-dogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Florida panhandle
Posts: 360
t-dogg is on a distinguished road
Pretty sure smokinjoe used the 1000rr tripples so I wonder what he did with his steering stops...
t-dogg is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 05:39 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
GregW, have you had any problems with those brackets loosening and swinging down (radiator dropping)? That was one reason I was thinking about using a single piece on each side, but the separate pieces look much simpler to make.

And what you said about method of bending does make sense, but I don't have a vice. I should probably get one anyway, and maybe this can be my excuse to the woman as to why I need one.

Any reason why people seem to move the radiators back around 3/4 inch? Is that all you can move it before bumping into something? I ask because I have some flat metal brackets that had pre-drilled holes every 0.5 inches, and I was going to use those brackets to move the radiators back one inch. But actually, if I bend the bracket, it would be closer to 3/4 inch, so maybe that will be perfect.
evines is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 05:54 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
MotoGP
 
smokinjoe73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,934
smokinjoe73 is on a distinguished road
On my stops I dremmeled/ground the stop on the lower triple about 1/4". I didnt move the rads yet, might eventually but its plenty ridable without moving them. I would recommend that if you are already doing all this that you swap to all ***** brand tapered roller bearings. Really you should do this on all bikes but you really dont want to put questionable bearings on the bike & introduce another variable to the package. You will be hyper sensitive to handling after this swap so you dont want pitted bearings screwing up the works. If you have any specific questions post em up & I will be happy to help if I can. Or you can shoot me an email at englatona(at)netzero.net. After 11 yrs racing I have gotten alot of help so never mind giving it back.
smokinjoe73 is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:39 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
SuperBike
 
Gregw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles ish
Posts: 1,031
Gregw is on a distinguished road
Originally Posted by evines View Post
Greg, have you had any problems with those brackets loosening and swinging down (radiator dropping)?
I did my swap 'bout 2 years ago and the tabs are still in place. Locktite on the screws and the bottom fairing bracket takes some of the weight. Attached hoses may help hold things in place too.

Originally Posted by evines View Post
but I don't have a vice.
Oh yes you do.
Gregw is offline  
Old 11-12-2010, 09:01 PM
  #11  
I loves me twins
Superstock
 
NooB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 380
NooB is on a distinguished road
'scribed
NooB is offline  
Old 11-13-2010, 01:53 AM
  #12  
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
 
Tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Tweety is on a distinguished road
My brackets/radiators hasn't moved once and it's now 5 years since I did the swap... I'd say it's a non-issue...
Tweety is offline  
Old 11-13-2010, 09:19 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Superstock
 
hondavtr1000sp2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 316
hondavtr1000sp2 is on a distinguished road
This is great evines, good on you for trying this buy your self.

You will get lots of support & help from all the guys on this forum.

I just have to say -

I want to see all your hard work.
hondavtr1000sp2 is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 04:59 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
Pictures coming today (if I can figure out how to post pictures).

Yesterday I got the triple mounted. It wasn't that bad actually. I'll still need to take it back apart though, but right now I have it together just to make sure everything fits. I might put the fairing on today since I've heard I might have to trim it some on the sides.

I drained the radiator coolant yesterday, somewhat on accident, but then I just went with it . . . I'm guessing coolant isn't supposed to look like dark caramel, right?
evines is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 05:46 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
I just added some pictures to the first post in chronological order. There's more to come . . .

Last edited by evines; 11-14-2010 at 05:49 AM.
evines is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 02:13 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
So now that the triple is mounted up, I think I can say that that was the easy part. Today I feel like I didn't get much done, even though I spent hours in the garage just staring at everything. Getting all the lines (brake, electrical, throttle cables) sorted out is a pain. I wish the throttle cables were about a inch longer, because at full lock they are almost binding up on the fork (I have them running from the bar behind the fork before coming back under the tank).

And the master cylinder is not fitting very well. I think I can make it work, but it's really limiting where I can put the clip-ons. The brake lines are touching the throttle cables, and the ignition switch can't be fully rotated into the correct position due to bumping into the master cylinder. Very annoying. I'm curious how others did it if anyone wants to chime in . . . including brake line path down to the calipers. I have mine running down outside the lower triple clamp, then coming back through between the lower triple and fender.

Here are some pictures:
My top tripleName:  photo5.jpg
Views: 121
Size:  81.4 KB

Clearance at the radiator hose on left:Name:  photo6.jpg
Views: 107
Size:  56.7 KB

And right side:Name:  photo7.jpg
Views: 104
Size:  54.7 KB

Radiator bracket:Name:  photo3.jpg
Views: 106
Size:  65.8 KB

Pic showing bend in the bracket. I got the bend just by bolting it up very tight. The aluminum bent, so that was easy.Name:  photo14.jpg
Views: 111
Size:  42.1 KB
evines is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 02:21 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
I ran into an unexpected issue . . . the CBR1000RR lower triple does not have the same size hole in the bottom as the superhawk, so I couldn't use my triple tree stand anymore.
Big peg doesn't fit in the small hole. Name:  photo12.jpg
Views: 108
Size:  71.4 KB

That was a problem because I used the triple tree stand to get the bike up on the car stands. But then when I swapped triples, I couldn't get the damn bike down off of the car stands since I couldn't use the triple tree stand. That was pretty dumb of me. I considered just dropping the bike down off of the car stands and "hoping" that nothing bad happened. But then I got the bright idea to replace the end of the triple tree stand with a three inch socket extension. It worked perfectly.
Name:  photo11.jpg
Views: 106
Size:  58.3 KB
evines is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 02:28 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
MotoGP
 
smokinjoe73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,934
smokinjoe73 is on a distinguished road
Just from looking, those look like apex bars. They are angled the exact wrong way. They will need to be angled down & toward the back of the bike. This will solve your brake clearance issues among others. If you leave them like that it will feel like when you were riding your BMX bike with the handlebars turned backwards
smokinjoe73 is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 02:51 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
Just from looking, those look like apex bars. They are angled the exact wrong way. They will need to be angled down & toward the back of the bike. This will solve your brake clearance issues among others. If you leave them like that it will feel like when you were riding your BMX bike with the handlebars turned backwards
They are Apex bars, and thank you, now that I look at it, it's pretty messed up. The bars aren't in the same position right now as in that picture, although I've been experimenting with a lot of different positions. As I have it right now, the bars aren't hitting anything, and it looks like it's clearing the fairing. My issue is that all the pieces clamped on the right bar (throttle, ignition switch, brake) are interfering with each other. I'm sure I'll get it to work eventually, but I wasn't able to today. I'll have to take a picture tomorrow so you can tell me what I'm doing wrong.
evines is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 03:44 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
Superstock
 
t-dogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Florida panhandle
Posts: 360
t-dogg is on a distinguished road
I know exactly what your going through. I tried every way you can think of with the right clip-on with the placement of everything. The biggest pain in my *** was my throttle cables. I have my throttle cables on the outside of the fork, not through the fork and have the cables on the top about 2 o'clock between the mastercylinder and the resivior, not on the bottom like it wants to go. Then I have my brake lines through my wires for the killswitch. It is all a really tight fit anyway you do it
t-dogg is offline  
Old 11-14-2010, 03:45 PM
  #21  
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
 
Tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Tweety is on a distinguished road
Basic geometry to get it close to what the VTR has as stock...

Put the standing tube of the clipon in the forward-outward quadrant vs the forkleg, then twist the handlebar in until you can put 2-3 fingers between it and the tank at full lock...

In that position it should clear the fairing and be rideable with small adjustments... Anything else will hit the fairing and or pinch your fingers, the levers or whatever...
Tweety is offline  
Old 12-13-2010, 11:14 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
I haven't had a lot of time to work on the bike the last few weeks. But here are the updates . . .

I got the clip-ons sorted out mostly. I ended up having to bolt the brake master cylinder between the throttle and kill-switch because my shorty levers weren't able to get close enough to the throttle with the kill-switch in between. I think this is how Tweety has his arranged, and actually looks normal to me.

The throttle cables were hitting the side fairing when I turn right. I could have twisted the throttle clamp up some to clear to fairing, but that interfered with the position of the brake lever. The only solution that I liked was to put the throttle cables pointing up. A lot of sportbikes have their throttle cables exiting above the clip-on, but my throttle cables are not long enough to point them up AND route them through the triple clamp. So for now, I have them routed between the triple and gas tank. This allows full steering lock, keeps the throttle cables from hitting the fairing, and allows the brake lever to be in the correct position for me.

The problem is that my thumb has to go around the throttle cables to hit the kill-switch and starter button. That's not a big deal to me, but it also looks kinda dumb. If it bugs me enough, I will eventually get longer throttle cables (I've heard the CBR F4i cables are much longer) and route them back through the triple clamp to get them out of the way.

I also had to cut the inner fairing pieces where the front turn signals are. The lower triple clamp was rubbing the inner fairing just barely, so I cut the fairing with my dremel and now it clears with no problem. That was a simple 5 minute fix.

The steel braided brake lines that I had on the old front end look like they will work on this set-up also. They are just long enough not to bind up with the forks fully extended. If they were an inch shorter, they wouldnít work. You might wonder why they are barely long enough when the CBR forks are shorter than the VTRs. Well, I think the issue is that the lines exit the CBR1000RR master cylinder at a different location, in a different orientation, and the lines enter the CBR1000RR calipers midway down the caliper instead of on top of the caliper like on the VTR.

Using Tweety's geometry in the post above, my configuration cleared all fairings, almost. I had to bend the CBR1000RR's brake fluid reservoir stand so that it wasn't so high. After that, it cleared the fairing easily. I actually have at least a cm of clearance all around now, so I'm happy with that.

All that is left is to put the coolant back in, add brake fluid, and get the front tire off of the old wheel and on the new wheel (I magnificently failed at removing the tire myself, so bike shop here I come!). My first test ride will have to wait until after the holidays.
evines is offline  
Old 12-13-2010, 04:15 PM
  #23  
Senior Member
Superstock
 
t-dogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Florida panhandle
Posts: 360
t-dogg is on a distinguished road
Sounds like your right on track. You picked a good time to be doing it. I did mine in the summer and I missed a few great weeks of riding. Here's a few pics on how I routed my cables. I bent the steel elbows inward that the throttle cables go into to get the angle I needed. Hope it helps a little...
Attached Thumbnails The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap-clip-ons-001.jpg   The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap-clip-ons-002.jpg  
t-dogg is offline  
Old 12-13-2010, 05:09 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
evines is on a distinguished road
Thanks t-dogg. Those pictures will help me a lot. I'm hoping I can get my cables in the same location. Right now my throttle cables are more in the 11 o'clock position and in the way of the kill-switch. I'll try your way and hope that works. It looks much better your way for sure (going behind the reservoir instead of in front of it).
evines is offline  
Old 12-13-2010, 05:18 PM
  #25  
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
 
Tweety's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Tweety is on a distinguished road
Actually, the images of my setup is several generations old...

Now I have Hayabusa control pods, and those incorporates the throttle tube on that side, so the switch and throttle is one unit...
I have the throttle wires going down/forward and I have rotated the banjo's on the brake lines around so that it's all happily nestled in there with the throttle cables routed in through the triples...
Basically the banjo sits between the throttle cables... Snug, but it works...

There isn't much slack or clearance in any place, but as it is, all ergonomics work, and nothing hits (cept the headlight pass button on the other side, but I can live with that)
Tweety is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scooter72
Modifications - Performance
15
03-16-2014 02:39 PM
superchickencornermonster
General Discussion
24
02-28-2013 02:33 PM
mileyguard
Classifieds
2
02-04-2013 04:50 PM
icebud
Modifications - Performance
72
09-14-2007 08:33 PM
iscoot
Modifications - Performance
3
06-25-2007 08:29 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: The (mis)Adventures of a NEWBIE's CBR1000RR Front End Swap


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:57 AM.


© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands