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Looking for HID conversion

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Old 04-05-2012, 08:06 AM
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Unfortunately I lost housing away in the move... bump for today... I wanted to figure out a way to help you guys get lights!
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:11 AM
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I will make my order in a couple days when I get paid.
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:35 PM
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Ok, I called and spoke to "Matt" yesterday. They are willing to close the group buy and ship whenever we tell them to. I did not specifically ask if they would reduce our discount, but Matt did not bring it up.
If there are more to join in I'm okay to wait till after Easter but basically I would like to get this going. Are we all agreed that Monday is the day to close this? Kbyers - if your serious and need a few more past Monday speak up
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:13 PM
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I'm good. I will make my order on Saturday. Thanks
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevebis1
Ok, I called and spoke to "Matt" yesterday. They are willing to close the group buy and ship whenever we tell them to. I did not specifically ask if they would reduce our discount, but Matt did not bring it up.
If there are more to join in I'm okay to wait till after Easter but basically I would like to get this going. Are we all agreed that Monday is the day to close this? Kbyers - if your serious and need a few more past Monday speak up
Agreed
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:58 PM
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Mine are ordered, MC-R shrouds.
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:10 PM
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All - Just spoke with TRS - they will close out the group buy coupon today and will process our orders to ship later this week. We ended up with 8 total orders and they were ok with that so all's well that ends well.

Now we have to see some pics of everyones new install - good luck!
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:43 AM
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Order Status Update: Shipped


Won't be installing light when I get it as I just got new plastics on. Going to wait until summer break and pull the plastics off to install the light and shift star kit. Waiting on installing shift kit is I had just changed oil.
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:35 PM
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Got shipping conformation Tuesday and it showed up today. Looks great just have to figure out when I am going to install it.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:11 PM
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Anybody start installing their kits yet. I have mine in the housing now and looking at the inside of the projector that cutoff looks angled. I'm not talking about the uptick. The whole cutoff looks angled. Is this normal?
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:05 PM
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Turns out it is the reflector that is making the projector cutoff angled. Looks like the easiest fix will be too cut the tabs for the H4 adapter ring in half. I will take pictures when I find my dremel.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:44 PM
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Here you can see how the back of the reflector has the notches offset to the right.



Here you can see the result of the offset. The solenoid mechanism/cutoff is tilted.



This is the result of cutting half of each tab of the H4 ring adapter that come with the kit. Cutoff is now level.



The headlight all buttoned up and cleaned. Very easy install.

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Old 04-14-2012, 03:56 AM
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Do you have a pic of the back after you trimmed the tabs?

Also did you have to trim any of the shroud off for it to fit?

Thanks,
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Verne
Do you have a pic of the back after you trimmed the tabs?

Also did you have to trim any of the shroud off for it to fit?

Thanks,
No I did not take a picture of it. I forgot to. But it is pretty straight forward. Just cut a little less than half of each tab. You'll able to tell when you do a test fit how much needs to be cut off.

The shroud I got required no cutting. I think it was the gti shroud. But it didn't come with a locking ring for it. It is a pretty good friction fit, but I added some butyl tape to be on the safe side. Other shrouds might be larger and require cutting.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:21 AM
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got mine in the mail today! same shroud as you have got taskmasta, thanks for the photos it makes me even more excited to get this thing in the bike!

it seems like an awefully lot of wires and such to hide up front im sure it will work out just fine though.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:18 PM
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just took it out of the box and looked at it, looks wonderful, well made and extremely well packaged. great compay to deal with, hopefully will upgrade my 78 cafe when i can afford it... can you get smaller ballasts?
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by taskmasta
Anybody start installing their kits yet. I have mine in the housing now and looking at the inside of the projector that cutoff looks angled. I'm not talking about the uptick. The whole cutoff looks angled. Is this normal?
Baked mine last night and it is already buttoned up. Mine is at an angle too. I'm adusting it slightly counter clockwise but only within the tolerance of the existing H4 ring as I am buttoned up with the shroud glued.
Should have this all back on the bike today so tonight I'll relate my findings
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Bearshawk
just took it out of the box and looked at it, looks wonderful, well made and extremely well packaged. great compay to deal with, hopefully will upgrade my 78 cafe when i can afford it... can you get smaller ballasts?
The question is can you get smaller ballasts that work well and are relaible longterm... And the answer to that one is unfortunatley no...
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:48 AM
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Just an idea for you guys installing the HID kits, when starting the VTR, power to the headlight gets cut during cranking and re-introduced post crank which would power the ballast with key on and re-strike after starting... The morimoto ballasts are great that they re-fire D2S bulbs while hot but obviously you don't want this...I used the kickstand to keep the light off while extended and starting, but once the stand is retracted, it grounds the relays and powers the ballast. Basically I used the sidestand as a switch to complete a circuit/close the relays which then power the ballast.

When I installed my kit(also the STG.3 bike kit from theretrofitsource.com) I was ready to mount the ballast and relays in the side plastics but really didn't like that idea b/c it would make removing plastics a big mess, so I completely chopped up the harness and rewired through the whole bike so the relays sit in the tail and only 3 wires run along the frame to the ballast up front sitting on the headlight behind the front fairing. You can get the 3 wires down to only 1-12v power wire out of the relays running up front to the ballast if you find the hi/low beam wires in the main harness at the back of the bike.

Too bad I didn't take any pictures of the install or I'd share more visually.
If anyone has any questions feel free to msg. and I'll try to help where I can and give more detail of my install.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:05 AM
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Problems....

I think I received a bad harness. When I plug the H4 connector to the H4 headlight connector from the bike the high beam indicator immediately illuminates. Checking this with my multimeter what I see is that as soon as the orange wire gets 12v it then sends 12v to the blue wire powering the high beam circuit and thus lighting the indicator. I unplugged both relays and this still happens. So basically the harness all by itself, is routing power from the orange wire to the blue. I switched to ohms to see if I had continuity but got nothing between the two.

Here is my thought... I think the harness has a diode wired in that should direct power from the blue to the orange. This would be necessary to keep the headlight on when switching to high beams. My theory is that my harness has the diode reversed resulting in power going the wrong direction. I know very little about diodes other than power can only flow one direction through them.
For those who know about such things, does this make sense? I guess I'll be calling TRS later this morning.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:59 AM
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Just read "wiring harness " under parts explained on the TRS site. Looks like I guessed correctly (even a broken clock is right twice a day!)
I'll be calling at 8:30.
If mine was bad others could be too. Suggest everyone check functionality before sliding the fairing back on.

Also it seems the orientation issue taskmasta found is the same on my bike too. Guess I'll use the extra time TRS gave me to bake open the light housing and adjust. The reflector structure is cast so I expect everyones will be identical. Just a heads up here
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:03 AM
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Hey thisdude. I applaude you ingenuity. My question is are you hinging you entire lighting system on the kickstand switch.

I ask because I have my headlight on a toggle. When I first did it, the toggle failed far from civilization and I had no lights. I have since only toggled it so hi beam means off but a failed toggle will leave low beam.

You may really miss the lights when they arent there.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:39 AM
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The kickstand switch was actually one of my buddies ideas I just did the wiring and made it work. I was looking to use an original switch on the bike, the hi/low beam switch was the easiest solution except the bi-xenon setup actually makes full use of that switch.
I have a toggle switch for my tail lights hidden under my seat on the rear subframe (for those special moments) which had a terminal come loose and basically failed...toggle switches depending on quality will fail if not sealed well and such, the sidestand switch has been good for the last 45K miles on my bike and everything is soldered up and shrink-wrapped...running an amp meter on the kickstand wire it was drawing 0.02 amps and the highest I saw was 0.03 for a split second...

the ballast gets power from the battery via the relays, the ground from the stand is just to turn the relays on...if anything its the relays that will go bad but this kit uses 2 relays together as a safety precaution in case one goes bad...

but in case the sidestand switch fails out in the middle of nowhere...all I have to do is pop the seat off and take that wire from the sidestand and ground it.

the bigger concern I had was if the bulb burnt out, I then don't have a low or high beam to get me home so that would require carrying a spare bulb.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
The question is can you get smaller ballasts that work well and are relaible longterm... And the answer to that one is unfortunatley no...

thanks tweety, ill have to find a way to make it work... the headlight on the kz is dreadful
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:34 PM
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I'm up and running. It was a reversed diode so I swaped the orange and blue in the H4 connector and am running the Blue to the ballast.
BTW where did everbody put the wiring? I put the relays on the left in the spot where the front coil used to reside and the ballast in basically the same spot on the right.
Did anyone else have problems with the bixenon relay wires for the high beam? In with the wiring kit was a hollow connector shell that the spades slid into, but it works like crap. They did not provide wire seals and the spades don't line up well so they get pushed back when plugging into the wiring harness. Seems odd like they forgot to pack the right connector, plus I got an extra orange and black pigtail for some reason.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ThisDudeHere
The kickstand switch was actually one of my buddies ideas I just did the wiring and made it work. I was looking to use an original switch on the bike, the hi/low beam switch was the easiest solution except the bi-xenon setup actually makes full use of that switch.
I have a toggle switch for my tail lights hidden under my seat on the rear subframe (for those special moments) which had a terminal come loose and basically failed...toggle switches depending on quality will fail if not sealed well and such, the sidestand switch has been good for the last 45K miles on my bike and everything is soldered up and shrink-wrapped...running an amp meter on the kickstand wire it was drawing 0.02 amps and the highest I saw was 0.03 for a split second...

the ballast gets power from the battery via the relays, the ground from the stand is just to turn the relays on...if anything its the relays that will go bad but this kit uses 2 relays together as a safety precaution in case one goes bad...

but in case the sidestand switch fails out in the middle of nowhere...all I have to do is pop the seat off and take that wire from the sidestand and ground it.

the bigger concern I had was if the bulb burnt out, I then don't have a low or high beam to get me home so that would require carrying a spare bulb.
Like others,I applaud your ingenuity... But there is a simpler solution... Just buy a Euro spec switch, and keep the headlight turn off until after cranking...
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:36 AM
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Got the projector installed and the headlight back in the fairing just have the wiring left.

Where is everyone mounting the ballast and relays? I have everything mocked up but not for sure on it yet just looking for ideas.

Thanks,
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:07 PM
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anyone else done theirs??

ill hopefully be getting mine apart early this week and tackling the project, what can i use to really clean the lens of the headlight? mine has some grime and probably even some dirt flecks. can they be refurbished or just clean with windex to the best of my ability and call it a day.

also, if i dont have a heat gun what else could i use to get the headlight apart? i might be able to find a gun but who knows...
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:21 PM
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Turn the oven on its lowest setting, place the headlight on a piece of cardboard in the oven for 5 minutes. It will pull right apart. Reassemble the same way.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kbyers
Turn the oven on its lowest setting, place the headlight on a piece of cardboard in the oven for 5 minutes. It will pull right apart. Reassemble the same way.

awesome, that will work great. has no ill effects on the oven? i share with two women in an apartment...
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