Bald Eagle

Thank you 59. I am in a little holding pattern. Waiting for a chain remover/compressor. Need to get the carbs adjusted right. Will not know how much until I get the chain on...#*%!
Will be showing some more pics later.

Bald Eagle

OK....moving forward with the "Bird of Prey" and setting up the carbs so the bike can run without any "Carb Farts" and Throttle Delay. Well… this got interesting… so let us start and do a show and tell.

Purchased a 6 Sigma Jet Kit and installed the 180 main jet for the front cylinder and the 185 for the rear. I bumped the needle with the nylon spacer for each carb. And kept the original pilot jets. I did NOT drill any additional hole, and I kept the original vacuum springs without cutting them.

I took the restrictor off the intake manifold rubbers and dremeled them to fit an exact match to the intake. (I have photos of this)

The engine has stage 2 cam with 11:1 high compression pistons. I have a K&N filter and have modified the air box. I set the idol mixture screw at 2.5 turns out for both carbs. All of the above were the second round of adjustments that I did. The first round was disastrous.

This is where it gets interesting. I had the engine idle low (1200), where the rear cylinder would get a “carb fart” and stall the engine. If I placed my hand lightly over the rear carb, the engine would increase in revs and the carb fart would go away. My conclusion was that the idle mixture screw needed adjusting. When I adjusted the idle mixture screw, the engine revs increased and the carb fart disappeared. I then adjusted the idle lower, back to 1200, and it would idle without any problem whatsoever. I have put a video to demonstrate on my youtube.
Carb Fart:

Carb Fart Cure:

Wolverine

The first time I worked on a bank of I4 carbs, the slides were going ape-****. Without the airbox, they were not happy at all. Put the airbox on as it ran and smoothed them right out. (it was a katana) Food for thought.

Bald Eagle

Well I have the wings on... but I do have further fine tuning that needs to be done. As for the parts from China...complete faring etc....I would not do that again. I have most of the original plastic and I had to buy some used second hand side pieces, which I am going clean up (sand down the pieces and repaint them) so that the bike looks right.
I can hear the engine pinging slightly which means I need to advance the ignition. Obviously with the high compression pistons and stage 2 cams, I need to do something about this. So does anybody out there have an answer to this -- an advanced ignition timing setting?
The other thing I noticed when taking the bike out on the road, the clutch is slipping. Possibly it's due to the extra power or maybe it was worn from the previous owner, but the only way I could tell was when I finally got it out on the road. Looking for suggestions on what clutch to purchase, from senior members. This bike is going to be on the track.
The carb set up is pretty close, which amazes me. But I am looking for those air-mixture thumbscrew jets by "Jack Flash" to really get a fine tuning with what I have.
More money was spent than anticipated.... but I love the way this bike rides.

Wolverine

What gas are you using?
And the SRK kits from EBC are pretty good.

Wolverine

Neat graph that came with a Dynojet kit I installed a while back (not on a VTR).

Bald Eagle

Where would you buy the Clutch from ...Bike Bandit?
Using 93 octane as always.
Thanks for your input.

Wolverine

Any of your favorite parts places should be able to get them.
Maybe you need higher octane now? As comp rises, so does oct requirement.

Bald Eagle

Wow....That is great info. Can the ignition be Advanced? Have not looked at this yet. I will be getting some boost to see how that goes. I believe the pistons are 11:1 ratio.
Thanks

E.Marquez

Staticly yes, but sadly the rotors to do so are no longer made new, so a used one is your best chance...if you don't have a CNC mill in your back pocket.

There is a company that makes a programmable ECU for our bikes, reviews have been hit and miss....but its an option Electronic for motorbikes - IgniTech P?elou?
in 2016 when I inquired it was

cpl rampage

Excited to see a bike like this getting put together so close to me. I will be following along for sure!

Wolverine

Factory Pro is the brand for the ignition advancer you seek. Good luck. They're out there so be patient.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...advance-31594/


You definitely need some high octane fuel now. I posted 2 images because I wanted to show the variation in info that's out there.

smokinjoe73

Eagle, interesting you had a rear cyl carb fart issue, I had the front one doing it. I didn't see in you vid much of a violent blow back but mine was pretty rough.
I too adjusted the fuel screws to richen the mix ( I had the benefit of the jack flash thumb screws which are awesome. They really should be factory equipment.
My bike is transformed. I also added a long front trumpet which really boosted torque noticeably.
I don't remember but is slotting the cam sprockets doable on the hawk? I know on other twins that's the way to go.

Pidge

Any engine I have ever worked with you would retard the timing not advance it if you hear pinging from detonation or pre-ignition?

Wolverine

Absolutely. Modern engines do this automatically, but they have knock sensors.

Bald Eagle

Hey Smokin J , the carb fart was not that bad, but it would stall the engine. I like my engine to idle low as possible, especially when the engine is hot and you go into first gear at the lights. Strange that it was the rear cylinder since that has the richer jets...but when I put my hand over the mouth of the carb slightly, it stopped the problem. Yes...I want Jack's Mixture screws....does anyone have them for me to grab. If you see how much the Air/Mixture can have such an effect on the total output of the fuel system, thank you Wolverine, it is obviously important to get the turns on that screw right. When you have made such modifications as I have, this detail can be important. I did the best I could to try and make the adjustments while the engine was running...and I had burnt hands from that. The wife was happy. Now that I have the bike running on the street, I have been very happy with the carbs so far. Running a little lean, but I am making a list of what I need to do before it hits the track. I have the "pinging" to look at and will go from there. I used the longer trumpets on both carbs, which you can see in the pics. Need Clutch EBC? and timing gear...so far.
Talk to you guys later

Bald Eagle

Oops...I am "Pinging" the wrong key on my piano. Yes I should be retarding the Ignition which I cannot do, unless I get an older model timing gear, before 2000 model....? I think I am going to try higher octane first.

E.Marquez

I don't think its been confirmed the timing difference was a mechanical or electronic change.. The Press Hand out for the 2001 does mention small changes for ignition, but does not say what, how much or how the change was effected.
In any case, retarding the timing to address pre ignition is "A Way" As is design / shape of the combustion chamber, cam profile and overlap, fuel's resistance to pre ignition.

The easiest thing to try is fuel...... go buy 5 gal of leaded 100-110 race gas.. from a bulk supplier or a shop that sells 5 gal cans..
https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder I mostly buy from bulk dealers , 5-20 gal at a time..As much for the ethanol free as higher octane.
Assuming that works (it should )
Try the ignition rotor from a 1998 ...I might have one still...
but as the same part is used 1998 to 2005, I really don't think that is where Honda made the change



But the Ignition Control module was changed 2001 and on.