flngscout

I read somewhere that you can cut out the baffles on the back of the exhaust and it makes a big positive difference. Has anyone done this, and if so, what were the results. I thought about just getting a new bolt on but someone says unless you get the $1200 akrapovic or whatever, you wont get much more for hp/torque.

skokievtr

Its called a "Bafflectomy" and it does provide a bit more umph and sweeter sound (to my ears anyway). If you are in an urban environment where the noise police can cause you trouble a Bafflectomy is not too loud and retains the OEM EPA stamp. It requires a good quality 2.125" hole saw, cutting fluid & patience. Once you cut thru the outer (exposed) baffle plate a very long flat-blade screw drive is required to punch loose the spot welds retaining the center exterior exhuast tube to the next internal baffle plate. An old broom handle jambed in the center tube aids in wiggling it about to get the screwdriver at the spot welds and then pull it out. Then take a Ddremel tool to smooth & polish the rough curf (edges) of what is left of the outer baffle plate for an OEM appearance. Rejetting is not required but preferable, along with getting rid of the PAIR system. I eventually replaced my Bafflectomied OEM cans with 2Bros aluminum slip-ons but may one day remount the Bafflectomied OEM cans for a more steathy profile (though they are quite heavy). BTW, any good set of slip-ons will do as much as a full system (I'm not partial to Akros but am to Skorpians) unless you also do some major engine work.

flngscout

what kinda engine work to you recommend? I just got done replacing my sprockets. 2+ in the rear and 1- in the rear. The back was simple, however my dumb **** broke the bolt on the front...that was an ordeal. Was lucky enough to be able to extract it and not have to pay for it.

skokievtr

You should have just gone with +3 on the rear and the OEM chain still works (but per my reply to your other thread), if you have more than 10k miles on the stock chain, replace it. As far as other mods, do a bunch of Forum searchs. Making major engine mods is costly and reduces reliability for maybe a 15% gain (unless you go really hogwild). Concentrate first on comfort (gel Progrips, my old Helibars, a Sargent saddle, tank "Stomp Grips", etc), then rejetting the carbs and slip-on cans (or a Bafflectomy), handling (fork springs & damping mods and replace the shock with a Penske 2-way), and braided stainless brake and clutch lines & EBC or DP front brake pads & SBS low-friction rear pads. The list is almost endless...

flngscout

what do you recommend for passengers? My wife luvs to ride but constantly bangs her helmet on mine. Knw\ow anything about the non slip seat?

Duck007