Wow! You forage, cut & split all that yourself?!

If so, you must be in good shape, have 4wheel UTV with a trailer, and a great chain saw...

Here I don't think they permit wood furnaces and stoves. Fireplaces yes but now that the EPA has refuted the 2009 benchmark on airborne particulates causing global warming, wood stove & furnace manufacturers should lobby urban building code regulators to permit wood fired heating.

In no time the pawl over Manhattan would resemble it's 1880​​​s heyday!

At ease! Smoke if you got em!

 

Clever work on the HISS. How, if you did, remove the chip from the original key?
Yes, US bikes had the same ridiculous security system.

 

Not my two 98s. Not per Google but it's certainly not infallible.

So what years here?

Inquiring minds want to know...

 

UPDATE 260222

Here's the new update.
NISSIN MCBS19 brake pump



Of course... I couldn't refrain from that


Then, I replaced steering bearings with tapered unit.




To properly cool down the bottom yoke, I put it into the freezer with the dog's meat


A slight warm up to the bearing...


et voilà!


With the new bearings in place, it's time to install the new top yoke by my design:


It doesn't weight significantly less than the OEM unit, but it allows me to remove the key block, bringing the weight loss to a good point:


And here it is


Once done it, it's time for the cooling system to get simplified: I removed thermostatic valve and deleted the bypass line. Any dead line has been closed with silicone caps
Thermostatic OFF


Lines closed with caps:


In the nex days I'll going to get some time to install this big boy

 

Of course not. As you know HISS was added in 2001.

 

So if I have an ignition black box for an 01 it won't work on a prior year?

Same goes for the other "Ignighter" black box?

 

So if I have an ignition black box for an 01 it won't work on a prior year?

Same goes for the other black box?

 

It should work only if the ECU can recognize the chip in the key. An any ECU is paired to one chip and one only.
So you need the post-01 ECU plus its own key-chip

 

So you're sure EVERY US 01 and on has HISS?

What about the igniter black box?

Thanks

 

Herr Doktor

Very nice!

I'm sort of surprised you didn't go with an alternative front forks setup and swingarm.

What's with your wheels again?

Who lightened your flywheel, Erik ( who made a spare for me)?

Also, have you tried to find the all but unobtainum Factory Pro shift kit with their shift wheel, roller arm & spring with a new gasket? It's a great mod!

Whose brake pads are you using again?

 

[QUOTE=skokievtr;417658]So you're sure EVERY US 01 and on has HISS?/QUOTE]

European version has it for sure; I heard that in US it has been implemented later
Furthermore, the fiche for 2001 Canadian version has it, so I may suppose US type has it too

 

Eheheheh, there are two reasons behind my choice:
1) Budget
2) Wife

However, I can say that with a proper internal setup (Ohlins hydrailic kit and springs) and the stiffening forkbrace installed I'm satisfied about its behavior

Not tested yet. The bike is yet to be finished; also, the winter is very long in my place; the roads will be practicable back in late april

No. I live in Italy. It has been machined by a friend of mine, who's running a CNC machining workshop

What?!? never heard of it; please enlighten me
Pads? I have the OEM, so far.
At next service I'm going to replace them with DID ZCOO

 

[QUOTE=Dr. Ergal;417660]Ah Hah! You made an assumption! And baby, we ain't Canada! They have always gotten stuff we never see. Which most often is too bad for US but in this case very much a good thing. But I will run this down and report back.

 

It says its still available but I had to wait 9 months for them to make a batch and finally receive mine but they may have some i stock! Well worth it but they've doubled in price in the last 15 years. But so has everything worth getting new. We'll worth and check out their ignition timing rotor which may not longer be available. But Marc is really also known for his carb kits but now also has wheel bearing kits...

http:/www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html

My preferred front pads are Ferodo RDL but each to their own. EBC pads can be abrasive but I like their Contour rotors. Do notuse HH+ on the rear though. Stay with GG.

Over the last 28 years, I have forgotten more than I can remember but will keep trying to ride my beloved 98s though will be selling the lower mileage one... But I do have a good library.

 

WOW!!
That's a very good mod, indeed!! thanks for advising, man👍


The word "discontinued" just below gets me concerned, though 🤔

 

Yesterday, after dinner and after a veeeeery long working day, I decided that I deserved an hour in my bat-cave 😎
So I took the occasion to set the TPS: acc. to the Service Manual, the reading was out of spec. The engine has always run smooth and regular, but I'm curios to see if I can notice some difference.
The reading "as is":


The reading after the regulation:


It has been impossible to go further (the SM recommends to keep the reading between 490-510 Ohms); Maybe, if I removed the steel frames into the slots I could gain some extra degree of rotation, but let's see how it work this way before putting again my bad hands on it.

The carbs have been serviced and cleaned with ultrasonic cleaner last summer, so I didn't need to do anything else on 'em.
But you know... when your name is Dr. Ergal you simply can't avoid to... well... THIS 😅




Useful? Oh my dear... absolutely NO 😁
Essential? F#ck yeah 😎

Beside, I'm just following Sir Colin Chapman's motto, "simplfy, then add lightness" 😉

I'm about to reinstall the carbs this weekend; but I have to make a small mod on the protecting panel, first 💡

 

525, may be close enough for the girls we go out with...

But, removing the "frames" ( reinforcing compression collars) is SOP and will get you down under 500...

I have 5 sets of carbs, which are all "jetted" (calibrated) about the same I swap out every so often as I feel is needed. There is a forum inmate who sells brass choke cable receiver fittings that you should get. In fact, I was ready to get a 3rd pair but had yet another back surgery mugged it after it also didn't go well. It's actually got a name, "Failed Back Surgery Syndrome "... I guess I'm just a lucky guy! NOT!!! Same issue with both my shoulder surgeries. Did you know when your rotator cuff and labrum are fucked up enough you literally can't lift your entire arm?

BTW, I call my shop the "Bret Cave". Guess why...

I'll try to find the thread and forward it to you on the choke cable fittings, as they crack quite easily being 25 years young...

 

Thanks
I really appreciate your support and tips

 

Go back thru my above post #16...

How's your shock swap going, it doesn't look easy?

See my pm for info on brass carb ckoke boss fitting

Note my 3-point mount case guards, totally unique. Only 10 were made by a Japanese track mechanic that he created to protect their VTR1000F rental bikes made for a Canadian expat living in Tokyo (who to support his VTR1000F habbit, then a big bike in Nipon, imported cigars and or wine...).

I believe we were forum buddies on the predecessor Runlevelzero.com that Greg Nemish had before this one, which technically he still owns.

 

Wonder if it was just me or.. When I set mine to below about 520, bike acted a bit "funny". I upped it to, if I remember correctly, 525-530 and it was perfect.

 

Sorry, didn't mean to ignore, I just didn't want to derail too much, lol. I'm 53 and in decent shape. Yes I "scrounge" it all, never paying. I have a fleet of 12 saws (or so), 5 of which have been highly modified by various builders. For about 250-300 doll hairs, they change port timing, increase port flow, advance timing, mod the muffler and change various intake items to flow better. The result is typically a 40% increase in cut speed. Makes the cutting part of it very much enjoyable.
Just a truck and smallish 4x8 trailer to bring it all home. No hydro help for the big stuff, just manual labor.

 

Very slow progress, unfortunately: huge workload and family issues take me away from my shop.
Then, where were we?
Carburetors assembly and heat guard panel.
All of you know that this panel is meant to isolate carburetors vane from the heat coming from the front cylinder, also calming air turbulences ahead the inlet snorkel.
Well, I thought to use it to hold the horn, too


It should be cool to say that I did to bring the masses close to the center of gravity, improving handling and blah blah blah
In reality, I did to remove its bracket and connection bolt (simplify, then add lightness) and to get free room on the bottom yoke to use the workshop pivot stand without any constraint.
Working in that zone, I did another small mod. This is the only addition I did on the bike, but the pros are enormously overpowering the added weight (negligible, anyway)
I installed a vent port for brake bleeding into the threaded hole just below the front cylinder inlet manifold, used to connect a hose for carb sync. This procedure is very annoying, so I decided to keep a hose permanently connected and way more accessible.


Then, carbs went in place and it was the time for the airbox to be refined.
Since I removed PAIR and crankcase vent connections, the internal bracket for its reservoir are useless. If they're useless, there's no reason to keep'em aboard.
Here's the airbox with its bracket and hose connection:


and here's with no more 😆


then, airbox went in place


and the new 3D printed trumpets as well. They come with 4 arms covering the 8 connecting bolts, preventing them from drifting all around in case of loosening.
To prevent their own screws to get loose, I secured them with safety wire.


NOTE: the 3D printing material is solvent-proof. In fact, I submerged the prototypes in gasoline for a whole night and they resisted perfectly.

To close the airbox cover, I found a set of ergal Parker screws; why using heavy screws to connect light plastic items? 😎



Next time I'll take the occasion of the oil change to replace the flywheel with the lightened one:



​

 

Hello

in my experience it's best to prioritize resolving family issues over playing with toyz... 20 years from now you may otherwise regret it...

Wht did you add the steering stabilizer, and its weight? I've never felt the need for one and seen 140+ mph on my BC and GPS without instability.
Oh, I run an old tech Sigma bicycle computer (BC) for a second trip meter, rolling time, average & top speed, and maintenance mileage odometer. You can see it in a couple of my pics mounted with a plastic plate to the triple clamp.

Eons ago I also added a brass vacuum nipple and hose to the front carb manifold for ready syncing with the rear carb (adding a T connector in the hose to the fuel petcock with a short length of vacuum hose terminated with a capped nipple). I use the front carb manifold vacuum hose for double duty to operate my ancient Scott chain oiler.

Attaching the horn to the heat shield structurally may cause stress failure in the heat shield unless reinforced. Horns are a concentrated heavy mass that can induce untoward vibration. But of greater concern is reduction of the horns effectiveness due to its muffling location. I actually added a second horn, a Fiamm low tone on its on bracket but using a slightly longer bolt to secure both concentrically. I added a splitter Y power harness for horn + & ground. No relay required, and together they're loud enough to get the attention of most half brain dead mouth breathing cagers!

What are you doing with the pseudo clip-on handlebars? Originally I went with our US made Helibars, then some 3-way slightly taller adjustable Italian Tommaselli bars, and currently some wonderful but now unobtainum significantly taller 3- way clip-ons that still don't require trimming the faring. The top tubes are 41 mm. Others have utilized Gen2 VFR bars.

https://revivalcycles.com/products/tommaselli-adjustable-clipon-bars?srsltid=AfmBOopD_YohwGTm3QnqwWECPnDaUClevw4kY LlM3eucyGpPmJxEvwBM

These are 43 mm but show you what I setting on to help with my bad back.

https://ebay.us/m/bANBYh

For footpegs I run the excellent and lighter MFW Vario Adjustable assebly that are very well engineered and manufactured. Their sport style pegs do not transmit any vibration.

I also installed eons ago Chicom quick click reach and length adjustable and pivoting clutch & brake levers with ProGrip rubber sleeves for much better tactile feel and grip, especially in wet weather.

I cut my own pattern Stomp Grip fuel tank knee grip pads too. And added an upholstered buckle guard to the back the tank. I also fabed dense rubber tank pads that fit in the tank front side forearm hollows ala Triumph style tank pads that serve double duty to protect the tank from the handlebar ends if an unfortunate tip over (poopoo saynomore).

What are you going to do about an alternative to the oem butt n ball busting saddle? I went with a US Sargent Cycle Products saddle that I've modded a couple times to fit me just right...

Just a few more tips for you...

Did you ever read through my list of mods I posted???

Ciao baby and keep at it.

You only have 26 more years to catch up with me mods and age wise :-》

 

OMG!!! 26 more?!?!? You mean you're 80? Wow. That's gives me hope for still riding a lot :-)
Handlebars are in preparation; a CNC workshop is working on top yoke assembly:


Why did you add a second horn? I'm taking mine only because I'm obliged by law
Steering damper... well... I agree: I don't feel the need to have it, honestly.
I tried to install it because it was a gift from a friend but it doesn't convince me

 

I covered a lot more in my last reply to you than bars and horns...

And your bar design looks ok but there are several good bits readily available that are designed to be repaired relatively inexpensively and quickly after a crash versus the distress of damaging an expensive one off set...

And you glossed right over prioritizing your family issues.

and I mistakenly lumped time together. 28 years of ownership and mods but only 20 years older...

Life begins at 140 mph on two wheels..

But we did try to break a double ton at Bonneville on a blown twin many moons ago but a spun crank bearing ended our runs at only 190 and change...

 

The thing is that my aim is not letting the bike be as robust as a panzer in case of crash. if so, amen: I'll rebuild it.
I design my bike to be pure and lean like a race horse.
My goal is just the "wow effect" when I open my shop's door.

The time of 60.000 km per year is over.
And the time of racing, when I was long-term resident in Mugello, is over too.

Now I just can use the bike for a very little amount of km per year; less than 1000.
In this small mileage, I just want to enjoy my bike, its beauty and its pure spirit

that's it

 

In other words, a "Garage Queen"!

I really am not very much concerned about the way my bikes look, as you can't see most of it when your on them riding.

I predominantly care about how they function.

Function over form...

My 35k mile a year days are like over but only due to me running myself too hard and wet, and not taking care of my bod.

I started at age 9 as a Judoka until 27, with several good injuries. Judo means the "Gentle Way" or Gentle Art. Believe me it is NEITHER!

Plus I played hockey starting even earlier, goalie no less, and always outdoors!!! Before helmets and masks...

I only raced for a few years in the early 70s and just a just of endurance racing in the early 80s. But bikes, tires, helmets, gloves, boots and suits, and especially race tracks were not very safe.

U have been careful and, knock on plastic, not been poopoo can't go there.

I was almost killed on a bicycle spinning 18 mph when I was taken out by amother errant jockey.

As only one example, Ive PMd you a couple of representative X-rays of just my spine. But it's concussions and resulting TBI that have me most worried...

 

Gentlemen, here's the update.
Bike is almost done. I'm pretty satisfied for some reasons and not very happy for other reasons.
Let's start with the good ones.

I removed the flywheel and compared with the lightened: 750gr approx.




Reinstalling the covers... well, I replaced the OEM bolts with... guess what?



Then... the glitch, the big one...


Since the wiring was burnt off, I replaced it completely. This made me the opportunity to place the R/R (a Shindengen SH847) in the right place:


To take a easy reading of the charging tension, I installed a Voltmeter under the cockpit, switched off by a small switch placed in the location of the rear brake reservoir, and covered by a carbon sheet


To complete the engine, a carb sync and it's done.



Now, the last part: the fairings.
You know, I bought a fairing kit from a chinese producer. Obviously, I was not expecting perfection, I was prepared for some issue but... I wasn't prepared for this AGONY
Nothing, literally NOTHING fitted properly; I had to adjust any single fitting but ok... it's part of the game with chinese fairings
The problem was the tank cover. This manufacturer makes complete sets providing also a tank cover; in this way you avoid to pay for tank repaint. Brilliant idea.
Here's my kit:


Nice, uh?
But this manufacturer got its ONLY template from the first version (16l tank)
Guess what's my tank

Long story short, the tank cover doesn't fit. That's it.
Anywasy, it's not that bad if you look it from pretty far and don't search for details






It's not complete (it will NEVER be ); I'm still waiting for the handlebars holders and some minor stuff, but it's almost done and I can't wait to test it

 

Keep at it.

I still am.

Just a week ago, I had some original components replaced to restore functionality.

Results are promising but it'll be a while before I know how well things will be.

If it goes as hoped, then we'll replace the opposite side.

3D imaging guided a MAKO robot, with special tooling. Really impressive tech.

https:/www.stryker.com/us/en/portfolios/orthopaedics/joint-replacement/hip.html

Unfortunately, I have several more components awaiting replacement...

It always could be worse