DanMoto rear-set "loose brake" mod/fix
03-27-2014, 06:32 AM
#31
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Well Surprise Surprise, I drilled the mounting bracket and refitted it to the bike.
Then I proceeded to reassemble the rear set, mounted the master cylinder to ensure that the actuator rod was at the right angle , tightened all the bolts and the brake pedal that had returned by itself without a bolt in the back of it and the clevis and actually had some feel, was binding again with the clevis bolt in and tightened.
Removed the bolt and all was well with the pedal returning by itself, and having feel again.
Now I have come to the conclusion that I can fix this pesky problem once and for all by exchanging the bolt through the clevis and actuator rod with a clevis pin and a split pin holding it in place that I will actually have a workable back brake again.
On the positive side without a back brake I have learnt the importance of the front brakes and the effect that they have over the bike under a wide range of conditions.
My background is Dirt Bikes and the back brake is used more often in the dirt than on the road, however not having that safety blanket on the Storm(HAWK) for some time now I am Looking forward to getting it back. I have always used the rear brake to adjust my line if I have hit a corner too hot. Lately there have been a few times when riding my favourite mountain road that I wished that I had a rear brake, but Didn't.
Butt clenching moments indeed!!!
Jscobey remove the bolt in your clevis and see,what happens.
I hope this is the answer to our problem and that it helps fellow owners
Then I proceeded to reassemble the rear set, mounted the master cylinder to ensure that the actuator rod was at the right angle , tightened all the bolts and the brake pedal that had returned by itself without a bolt in the back of it and the clevis and actually had some feel, was binding again with the clevis bolt in and tightened.
Removed the bolt and all was well with the pedal returning by itself, and having feel again.
Now I have come to the conclusion that I can fix this pesky problem once and for all by exchanging the bolt through the clevis and actuator rod with a clevis pin and a split pin holding it in place that I will actually have a workable back brake again.
On the positive side without a back brake I have learnt the importance of the front brakes and the effect that they have over the bike under a wide range of conditions.
My background is Dirt Bikes and the back brake is used more often in the dirt than on the road, however not having that safety blanket on the Storm(HAWK) for some time now I am Looking forward to getting it back. I have always used the rear brake to adjust my line if I have hit a corner too hot. Lately there have been a few times when riding my favourite mountain road that I wished that I had a rear brake, but Didn't.
Butt clenching moments indeed!!!
Jscobey remove the bolt in your clevis and see,what happens.
I hope this is the answer to our problem and that it helps fellow owners
That fastener was not supposed to clamp the clevis, but to just act as a pivot pin.. the pin then be secured in place by the not on the back side (or is it threaded into the clevis itself?)
In incase.. yes replace with a straight pin and secure with wire or a cotter pin..., or use the bolt and nut as described above.
Happy days, good work.
03-28-2014, 12:36 PM
#33
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Eureka, thought about this all day and something Mr Marquez pointed out stuck in my mind , and that was the clamping effect causing the brake to bind.
I took the clevis of the actuator rod and put the thread to the outside, installed the bolt, and hey presto the pedal actually pivots on the bolt now and the pedal returns by itself.
I have also drilled the mounting plate so that the Master Cylinder is now moved to allow the actuator rod to sit at the right angle for smooth operation.
With the thread on the clevis on the outside of the brake lever instead of the inside and clamping the brake pedal it now allows the bolt to act as a pivot instead of a clamp and there is no binding.
Finally happy, but apart from the pivot effect I think that moving the master cylinder to get the right angle on the actuator rod is equally as important as allowing the bolt to act as a pivot rather than a clamp for the brake lever.
Try it, it works for me.
I took the clevis of the actuator rod and put the thread to the outside, installed the bolt, and hey presto the pedal actually pivots on the bolt now and the pedal returns by itself.
I have also drilled the mounting plate so that the Master Cylinder is now moved to allow the actuator rod to sit at the right angle for smooth operation.
With the thread on the clevis on the outside of the brake lever instead of the inside and clamping the brake pedal it now allows the bolt to act as a pivot instead of a clamp and there is no binding.
Finally happy, but apart from the pivot effect I think that moving the master cylinder to get the right angle on the actuator rod is equally as important as allowing the bolt to act as a pivot rather than a clamp for the brake lever.
Try it, it works for me.
03-30-2014, 10:39 PM
#35
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 834
yea me either, and also the location and/or size. they are to small. they can still be small bu need to be relocated. especially the shift side is worthless but neither are good.
03-31-2014, 08:27 AM
#37
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 501
Yeah the shift side is the most annoying one, and thats why mine is already cracked. Couldn't take the pressure of my heal pushing on it in a turn and it snapped.
03-31-2014, 06:33 PM
#38
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 834
kenmoore i have the brake pretty well sorted. havnt done anything to adjust the angle of the MC, but i dont feel its at to bad of an angle anymore. i went and adjusted the pedal even steeper so that when FULLY depressed it just barley clears the mid pipe. the angle seems good so i figure ill leave well enough alone. for now.
jerry, as far as the heel gaurds. im thinking of making a template and having some custom, much bigger heel guards fabbed up. something like the size of the stockers.
jerry, as far as the heel gaurds. im thinking of making a template and having some custom, much bigger heel guards fabbed up. something like the size of the stockers.
04-01-2014, 08:53 AM
#40
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 834
idk, personally i like the carbons but i think in the long run something metal will last. especially if im paying for something custom to be made. plus idk where i can get carbon bits made.
04-01-2014, 09:27 AM
#41
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
If doing it over a blank its pretty easy.
So start with a foam or aluminum blank, use steel or aluminum tubing sections as spacers for the fasteners, cover in CF cloth and resin, allow setup, add additional layers as desired.
Trim , then shape, sand and polish.
Im working on exhaust hangers right now.... I wanted to ditch the cast aluminum ones with the foot pegs,, but was not happy with the aftermarket options.. All too thin and floppy.
I wanted a bracket with at least 8mm cross section. So I started with an aluminum sheet 2mm thick, cut to size. pressed in aluminum tubing with 8mm ID for the fasteners.
Started covering them last night.
Will add layers till i get my desired 8mm cross section.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 04-01-2014 at 09:31 AM.
04-01-2014, 10:14 AM
#42
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 501
I will probably make mine out of AL instead of covering them in any way shape or form. Ill pick up a sheet of AL this weekend and start work on them.
As for the brake movement, I know some of you guys used a bolt all the way through, but heres what I did.
It holds the MC bracket in place very well but also retains the stock look. As you can see the bolt that is now installed is much bigger and threads are cut straight into the rearset.
As for the brake movement, I know some of you guys used a bolt all the way through, but heres what I did.
It holds the MC bracket in place very well but also retains the stock look. As you can see the bolt that is now installed is much bigger and threads are cut straight into the rearset.
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