Carrillo rods arrived!!!!
08-17-2010, 07:53 AM
#1
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Carrillo rods arrived!!!!
My custom Carrillo rods finally arrived today. Will be posting pics and weight data later on today......
Coming soon: one kickass rebuilt VTR engine... muahahahahahah
Coming soon: one kickass rebuilt VTR engine... muahahahahahah
08-17-2010, 09:51 AM
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Will do (BTW, I spent the vast majority of my life in Ontario). Neat parts going into the rebuild so far:
- 0.5 mm OS JE hi-comp pistons (same as Rick's, same batch), with moly skirt coating and ceramic top coat
- DLC coated piston pins and valves
- ceramic transmission bearings
- FP Shift Star
I will be getting the crank assembly balanced to the new bits too, for smoother running and greater durability.....
- 0.5 mm OS JE hi-comp pistons (same as Rick's, same batch), with moly skirt coating and ceramic top coat
- DLC coated piston pins and valves
- ceramic transmission bearings
- FP Shift Star
I will be getting the crank assembly balanced to the new bits too, for smoother running and greater durability.....
08-17-2010, 10:03 AM
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Just finished weighing the rods on a digital scale (OEM rods are an extra set I bought on eBay with the original intention to use before decidign to go ahead with the Carrillos):
OEM Rear: 535.9g
OEM Front: 538.6g
Carrillo Rear: 457.1g (78.8g; 14.7%)
Carrillo Front: 456.3g (82.3g; 15.3%)
Weight difference from stock is in brackets, pretty significant IMO. AS this is reciprocating weight, it should result in an engine that spools up noticeably more quickly (especially when working with the lighter flywheel, pistons, rims, brake rotors, aluminum clutch plates)....
Pics are next....
OEM Rear: 535.9g
OEM Front: 538.6g
Carrillo Rear: 457.1g (78.8g; 14.7%)
Carrillo Front: 456.3g (82.3g; 15.3%)
Weight difference from stock is in brackets, pretty significant IMO. AS this is reciprocating weight, it should result in an engine that spools up noticeably more quickly (especially when working with the lighter flywheel, pistons, rims, brake rotors, aluminum clutch plates)....
Pics are next....
Last edited by mikstr; 08-17-2010 at 10:21 AM.
08-17-2010, 10:18 AM
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based on what I have now (realistically estimated at @120 hp and 75 lb-ft), I figure that the new bits, combined with the freshening up of the engine (whihc now has almost 140,000 km on it), should get me damn close to 135 rwhp and 85 lb-ft. Combined with a weight loss of about 60 lbs (much of it rotating weight), it will be a rather wild ride and excellent sleeper bike for unsuspecting squids, lol She goes VERY nicely now, the added boost will make it insane......
Last edited by mikstr; 08-17-2010 at 10:21 AM.
08-17-2010, 10:50 AM
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thats sweet ****. i didnt notice but are you still using the stock crank? i hear these motors tend to come apart at about 140 hp. i hope yours doesnt because i wouldnt ind seeing if i could get a little more pep out of mine in the future 
are you able to spin her up a little higher with the work done to it or is she still gonna redline at 10500?
are you able to spin her up a little higher with the work done to it or is she still gonna redline at 10500?
08-17-2010, 10:53 AM
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Beautiful, aren't they?
FWIW - 120 HP is 66.3 ft-lbs at 9500 RPM. Peak torque is at a lower RPM (~8500) and may be ~70 ft-lb.
I'm not sure how you expect to get to 85 ft-lbs. as far as I know, 135 HP is gotten with higher RPM and something like 70 ft-lbs of torque. But I know that I don't know a lot. A well developed RC51 maxes at about 75 ft-lbs torqu and a peak of ~140 HP at 10,000 RPM, with stock cams.
Whatever you end up with will be a wonderful beast. Good luck!
I'll tell my latest story in another thread...
FWIW - 120 HP is 66.3 ft-lbs at 9500 RPM. Peak torque is at a lower RPM (~8500) and may be ~70 ft-lb.
I'm not sure how you expect to get to 85 ft-lbs. as far as I know, 135 HP is gotten with higher RPM and something like 70 ft-lbs of torque. But I know that I don't know a lot. A well developed RC51 maxes at about 75 ft-lbs torqu and a peak of ~140 HP at 10,000 RPM, with stock cams.
Whatever you end up with will be a wonderful beast. Good luck!
I'll tell my latest story in another thread...
Last edited by RCVTR; 08-17-2010 at 10:55 AM.
08-17-2010, 12:52 PM
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I spoke to Roger Ditchfield about crank durability issues and he informed me that problems arise with really aggressive cams. It is not, he stated, a function of rpm or combustion pressure. the problem lay in a shearing taking place in a corner of the crank forging, the HRC billets cranks that were produced had a smoother transtion to help alleviate the issue. He assured me that my Yosh Stage 1 cams would not cuase me any problems.
AS for rpm, my rebuild will maintain stock rpm levels. For this reaosn I am maintaining stock valve sizes and, in fact, had my Yosh cams re-timed by 2 degrees (upon installation)to keep the peak power down. The changes will basically add more power across the board (largely due to bump in compression and better sealing from new piston and rings) and make it a real sweet street engine.
FWIW, my last dyno run had the engine putting out 71.1 lb-ft at the rear wheel (at 7000 rpm, same peak rpm level as stock btw; Peak hp was 112.8 at 9K). Since then, I have gone back to a modded airbox (a change which netted me about 2.5 hp and similar torque in the past), as well as added ceramic wheel bearings, stick coils and BMC filter (and a new chain, the old one having run its course), hence my 75 lb-ft estimate.
AS for rpm, my rebuild will maintain stock rpm levels. For this reaosn I am maintaining stock valve sizes and, in fact, had my Yosh cams re-timed by 2 degrees (upon installation)to keep the peak power down. The changes will basically add more power across the board (largely due to bump in compression and better sealing from new piston and rings) and make it a real sweet street engine.
FWIW, my last dyno run had the engine putting out 71.1 lb-ft at the rear wheel (at 7000 rpm, same peak rpm level as stock btw; Peak hp was 112.8 at 9K). Since then, I have gone back to a modded airbox (a change which netted me about 2.5 hp and similar torque in the past), as well as added ceramic wheel bearings, stick coils and BMC filter (and a new chain, the old one having run its course), hence my 75 lb-ft estimate.
Last edited by mikstr; 08-17-2010 at 04:34 PM.
08-17-2010, 07:24 PM
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im honestly a little afraid to tear into my motor. last time i did that with a car i finished with an 8400 dollar motor that had an oil pump failure at 7400 km. but man was she ever fun until that happened
08-17-2010, 07:29 PM
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I have the same concern. While I don't especially like having to fork out money to have someone rebuild it, I know it will be well done (especially given the chap's expertise and track record). He has been doing work on my bike from day one and I don't have a single bad thing to say so I will hand him "my baby" in full confidence....
08-18-2010, 05:23 AM
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I imagine/hope it will add some bark to the exhaust note (already sounds pretty nice with the full Akra set-up). I am looking forward to seeing how quickly the tach jumps too (especially with the short-throw HRC throttle tube I am using.... woohoo!!!)
08-19-2010, 08:32 AM
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I don't know that I would have built a motor, if it wasn't for doing it myself.
The meticulous process and taking all the pretty parts and measuring, checking, installing are a very big part of the satisfaction. Then you get to turn the key and have this machine you just built come to life. The added performance is almost secondary.
But that's just me. It's not for everyone.
The meticulous process and taking all the pretty parts and measuring, checking, installing are a very big part of the satisfaction. Then you get to turn the key and have this machine you just built come to life. The added performance is almost secondary.
But that's just me. It's not for everyone.
08-19-2010, 09:06 AM
#21
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I can definitely relate to what you`re saying, but I chose to keep my work on grounds I feel more comfortable with. In my case, I tend to have a knack for finding unorthodox ways of solving problems (am also not very patient)..... The list of off-the-wall "solutions" on my VTR (and previously on my snowmobiles) is fairly long. They don`t always work, but often do too, which is also quite satisfying as it`s usually stuff no one (or very few) have thought of before......
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