Thanks for chiming in Hawk
It's cool to know that with your knowledge, you are open to this.

I think that I got the RPM issue sorted. Weather is about 64F degrees. "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses." haha

I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

#%^*+|€#% Veypor gauge! The RPM's issue is still an issue. Now I have zero RPM's reading on my gauge. Nothing, zilch, nada. Last time this happened, a resistor melted or something. Looks like I'm sending the gauge back to Canada...again. This is the last straw with this gauge. If it doesn't get fixed this time around, then I'm asking for a refund and getting something else. I've been more than patient with the issues with this gauge since I purchased it. You know, thinking about it, this gauge has been NOT working longer than it has been working correctly.

Well, at least I got to ride the bike today.

Last time the gauge was fixed, it took ~3.5 weeks for him to fix it and to have it back in my hands. So, it's going to be a while guys.

 

This brings up a side question.

Who would be interested in plug n play setups for other guages?

I ask because I did the cbr600rr dash swap and am now doing one with a 900RR dash. I figure I could make it just a plug in deal right to the hawk plugs. This is what I did on my A bike so I could always unplug it and plug the stocker back in.

 

For those that are still following this, Nathan from Nonlinear Engineering (maker of the Veypor gauge) got back to me via email. He's actually sending me a new junction box for my gauge. So, that means my gauge will be working sooner than I thought. Being optimistic, I'd say the junction box should be here in about two weeks. I'll update the thread when it gets here

 

Man, sorry to hear about your gauge.

I am waiting to see what happens with the wing.

On a lighter note I think I know how you feel as I have had similar things happen to me over the years.

Keep going, I hope that the wing works!!!

 

Thanks man. Searching of the internet shows only ME having these issues with this gauge. Figures, hey? haha
Nathan from Nonlinear Engineering has been super helpfull with the Veypor gauge problems. I give him an A+ for customer help and support.

I really don't want to buy another gauge if I don't have to. The Veypor gauge has so many awesome features that I simply don't want to part with. Fuel gauge, gear indicator, dyno, shift light (really gets your attention), hour meters, and of course a clock w/date, just to name a few of the most used.

Oh! I got a tracking number for the junction box and it should be here on the 31st or the first of June. So, ~8 days from now.

Once I get the new junction box installed, I need to calibrate it. So, it will take a day or two of riding to get it calibrated and have my base dyno numbers. So, I'd say in 2 weeks from now, I can start testing the X-Wing. However, this is all assuming that the problem I am having is with the juntion box. We will see.

Like always, I'll keep this thread updated!

 

Of course, you could always try it without the gauge and see what the old seat of the pants says

 

Guess what the maillady dropped off today!? My new junctiin box! I'm going to go install it and let you guys know what happens A.S.A.P.

I was thinking about just using my *** dyno, but if it felt faster afterwards, who would take my word for it? A lot of people like to see numbers to back things up. So, I have to be patient

 

I think you know the answer as to whether I would trust this *** dyno.

The answer is NO..... no for me. In fact I am voting that no more mention of *** happens this whole thread if thats ok.

 

Haha! I'll refrain from using that three letter word from here on out sir.


Well guys, I hooked up the new junction box and...IT WORKS!
Holy cow it works

So, I'm headed out in a few minutes to get the gauge calibrated again. Once it's calibrated, I will get the base dyno numbers and post 'em here.

To make sure everything is as accurate as possible, I just weighed myself with gear and also weighed my superhawk again with a full tank. I then entered those numbers into the gauge.

Data to come...

 

Went and visited a buddy out in the sticks about 40 minutes from my place, so I got some nice riding in tonight. Almost binned it 2 minutes from my buddies place. Two deer came flying out of the woods from my left and I swear that I felt the tail of the second dear on my right knee as I went by at ~45mph. Yeah, THAT close.
There are deer all over the place in S.E. WI, so you try your best to keep your eyes peeled.

Let me preface this with the fact that my engine has been making a noise that I assume is my valves needing adjustment. On the ride tonight, I noticed it most when I slowly got on the throttle. There was a tinking noise (metal on metal), and it is getting louder and louder. I just recently purchased a Hotcams valve shim kit to remedy this. I'll be checking the valves before I do anymore more runs.

Here's some data for the base numbers:
-These runs were made with a BMC road filter, stock velocity stacks, no snorkel, and no plastic heat shield in place above the front cyclinder

Run #1
3rd gear pull 3500-9500rpm's
HP 75.3 @ 6802 rpm's
TQ 74.5 @ 3880 rpm's

Run #2
3rd gear pull 4000-9500 rpm's (starting rpm's were 500 rpm's higher from Run #1 to see what would happen)
HP 66.7 @ 7302 rpm's
TQ 48.7 @ 6678 rpm's
During this run, the max G's that I pulled was only .42 G's.
* While starting Run #2 there was a cop behind me which kind of screwed up my starting RPM's for the 2nd run. This might be the reason for the skewed numbers from the first run

I saw too many cops driving around, so I decided not to do more pulls. I will try to get three pulls in a row tomorrow to get some consistent data (pending weather)

If you were to look at the graph of my HP & TQ vs. RPM's on Run #1, you would see:

41 ft.lbs. @ 4570 rpm's
34.6 ft.lbs. @ 4933 rpm's
58.8 ft.lbs. @ 5903 rpm's
52.3 ft.lbs. @ 6505 rpm's

It's up & down & up & down. Airplane quote: "He's all over the place. What and axxhole."
It appears that my carbs need some tuning! And the valves need adjusting.

I will download the data onto my laptop and then take a screenshot, so you guys can see the graphs and all the data from those first two runs.

EDIT: Just now remembered to include this. My clutch is almost completely shot. At full throttle going from first to second gear and also second to third gear, the clutch is slipping pretty bad. It will take about 1.5 seconds to engage at full throttle into the next gear. So, this needs to be addressed as well.

 

Just a quick question, would you guys like me to make these base numbers with or without the snorkel attached to the lid? If so, would you like to see the stock snorkel or a modified snorkel?

Also, I do not have the plastic heat shield in place above my front cylinder. Should I put it back in its place?

Let me know what would be best to do, then I will tune the carbs to that setup and THEN get some base numbers. Sound good?

 

Good to see some progress mate.

 

Have you guys seen the plates but in 2 strokes on the outlet side of the carb? I have been thinking of them for a while. They are supposed to make the carb smaller to start they the more the butterfly opens the bigger the air flow . Tiz common on 2 smokes.

 

My thoughts if I may. Snorkel and heat shield should be in place. More work for you, I understand, however, there are more poeple running both heat shield and snorkel in place then not.


Plus, it will also give you a better base line to see how well this project of yours works, IMHO.

 

Since I need to pop the valve covers off to check the valves anyways, I can easily put the heat shield back in place. I will put the snorkel on as well. Then make some more pulls and adjust the carbs accordingly. Once that is set, then I will make three runs back to back to get my base line numbers.

Heading out to the garage to DO WORK!

 

This is what I was waffling about. carb

At small throttle opening its acting like a small carb then as the butterfly opens it acts as per normal. Means you can run a bigger carb on a 2 stroke.

And you can buy plastic versions. Splitstream Type S13 CRF450R 07-08 | Trade Me

 

NZSpokes, the item you are linking to is kind of what the X-Wing is, but for a CV carb.

The Divider Plate is just one piece of metal. The X-Wing is two plates perpendicular to each other, making an X or plus sign or goofy lookin' lower case letter "t".

Read the whole thread for our thoughts on the X-Wing and what it most likely does when attached to our CV carbs.

 

The difference is is goes on the outlet of the carb, not the inlet.

But very interested in how the Xwing works out.

 

We're trying to get rid of turbulence before the air enters the carb. If the flow of air can be straightened out, our carbs will perform better

Thanks for trying to help out though!

 

Its a different concept. Its to operate the lower portion of the carb so it would be a 24mm carb at idle speed and part throttle. Then once over half throttle when the slide lifts it functions as normal.

Its kinda a funky concept but works for my KDX200.

Im not saying this is a replacement for the Xwing. Its an addition.

Obviously just an idea.

 

Oh, I know what you are talking about, and I read the link you posted. It sounds like it actually works from user comments, which is really cool. However, you do know that the carb on your Kawasaki is different from the carbs on our VTR, right? The VTR carbs have a slide and a butterfly behind the slide. So, that divider plate simply will not work. Understand?
Again, I appreciate you trying to help, but it won't work with our carbs.

 

Oh thats right. Ooops. Been a long time since I had the KDX carb apart.

Side note I did the snorkel mod and i think Im running 2 seals..... Also removed the breather bottle and hoses from in there. And Bam, shes a wee rocket now.

Got home from a ride and worked out how to do the carb sync without removing the airbox and it was quite out, looking forward to the next ride...

 

Here's what is happening with the testing.

Since I found the bike is seriously down on horsepower and torque was all over the place at different RPM's, I have the carbs out and am putting the 8541Hawk tune on them. As long as the carbs are out, I'm checking the valve clearence since there was some noise coming from the front head. When everything goes back together, the plastic heat shield will be going back in place and the unmodified airbox snorkel too.

The carbs are on the table right now needing to get worked on. I haven't popped the valve covers off yet.

So, that's where I'm at right now. Nothing major. Just need a little fine tuning is all. Once she's back running good, I'll do some more dyno runs and see what the power is like.

Stay tuned.

 

Oops. Work has been very busy and I forgot to post this.
I got the valves shimmed. What was wierd, was just the front head exhaust cam was out of spec. It was exactly .100mm to much. That might have been the clicking/metalic noise I was hearing in the front head.

I should be able to get my carbs back in place and continue testing after July 4th.

 

Did you polish the frame Mat?

 

Front exhaust valve or lobe...any signs of wear (out of the ordinary)? Tenth is huge

 

I think the previous owner polished, or tried to polish the frame. I didn't keep it up, because it's getting powder coated black anyways.

Yeah, .1mm is quite a bit. I have a few theories why it happened, but I'm just glad it's back within spec.

I also put my stock coolant bottle back in, just to see if there is any change with the cooling system (the overflow tube is really short for some reason). I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but I am assuming it will be just fine. If all is well, I will have a "kit" available to relocate the coolant bottle in the classifieds for those that have Jack Flash's fuel screws.

 

I have the stock bottle but dropped the carb heater lines. I have Jack Flash screws and they are easy to adjust.

 

There are some people, like myself, who have large hands and/or fat fingers and it's hard to get the digits in there