Bafflectomy RC51
05-18-2006, 09:31 AM
#1
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Bafflectomy RC51
I just sold my Superhawk, and have purchased an 00 RC51. I was trying to see if a Bafflectomy would be an option for increased power until I could buy a set of pipes. It seems that the article is no longer in the knowledge base(when I search it and try to read the article it says "site maintenance"). First, could anyone answer the question if it is worthwhile for an increase in power? Second, I have a powercommander, if I do this, where can I get an appropriate map? Finally, what are some instructions for carrying this procedure out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by mtmansl; 09-02-2011 at 11:14 PM.
05-18-2006, 02:17 PM
#2
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bafflectomy help
I can't speak for gains in performance, but the sound is awesome.
Start with a hole saw (the kind that goes on a drill, and cuts a round hole)
Choose a size that goes around the exhaust outlet, but inside the muffler outer ring.
Cut around the outlet until you get thru the metal and the outlet is seperated from the muffler body.
Take a heavy hammer and smack the baffle outlet several times until it is pushed in 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Insert a long rod into the baffle tube and start to wiggle the baffle up and down, 12 oclock to 6.
Repeat the wiggle going side to side
When it starts to feel loose and more free, start to wiggle in circular motion. When it feels very loose, Smack it again with the hammer and it will break free.
Now the tricky part is getting the baffle up and out. I found 3 things that helped.
1) Using the same rod you had to wiggle the baffle, try to bend the baffle slightly.
2) Smack the loose baffle a couple of times with the hammer.
3) Insert a long screwdriver that will reach down inside the muffler to where the baffel broke off inside. Using the screwdriver and a hammer. Bend the remaing edges of the baffle that stay inside over.
All of these will help immensly with the removal. My first muffler took m a 1/2hour to get the loose piece out. After doing the above, I got it out in 5 minutes. Hope this helps.
As you are frustrated with the wiggling, just repeat to yourself.
" I am getting aftermarket sound for free"
I got both mufflers done in around an hour
Start with a hole saw (the kind that goes on a drill, and cuts a round hole)
Choose a size that goes around the exhaust outlet, but inside the muffler outer ring.
Cut around the outlet until you get thru the metal and the outlet is seperated from the muffler body.
Take a heavy hammer and smack the baffle outlet several times until it is pushed in 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Insert a long rod into the baffle tube and start to wiggle the baffle up and down, 12 oclock to 6.
Repeat the wiggle going side to side
When it starts to feel loose and more free, start to wiggle in circular motion. When it feels very loose, Smack it again with the hammer and it will break free.
Now the tricky part is getting the baffle up and out. I found 3 things that helped.
1) Using the same rod you had to wiggle the baffle, try to bend the baffle slightly.
2) Smack the loose baffle a couple of times with the hammer.
3) Insert a long screwdriver that will reach down inside the muffler to where the baffel broke off inside. Using the screwdriver and a hammer. Bend the remaing edges of the baffle that stay inside over.
All of these will help immensly with the removal. My first muffler took m a 1/2hour to get the loose piece out. After doing the above, I got it out in 5 minutes. Hope this helps.
As you are frustrated with the wiggling, just repeat to yourself.
" I am getting aftermarket sound for free"
I got both mufflers done in around an hour
05-18-2006, 06:55 PM
#3
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superhawkslider, he's talking about rc51 pipes specifically. I installed those on my superhawk last year and really like the look but just as with the stock VTR units just toooooo quiet.
The concentric exhaust openings are NOT like the superhawk and trying to perform a bafflectomy the exact same way WILL NOT work. Believe me, I've tried. There is simply not enough room between the inner and outer rings to get any kind of saw or drill ALL the way around. Plus I don't think the inner design is the same but I could be wrong about that.
Anyway, I used a long 1/4 inch or so rod to puncture the inner chamber. I ground a point on the end and used a sledge to pound the rod thru while the cans were mounted on the bike and the front wheel lodge against a wall. It gave it much more bass; especially on decelleration, and slightly louder overall but no where near the db levels of a superhawk bafflectomy.
I've got a pair of micron rc51 pipes on it now but had to modify the peg mounting points.
The concentric exhaust openings are NOT like the superhawk and trying to perform a bafflectomy the exact same way WILL NOT work. Believe me, I've tried. There is simply not enough room between the inner and outer rings to get any kind of saw or drill ALL the way around. Plus I don't think the inner design is the same but I could be wrong about that.
Anyway, I used a long 1/4 inch or so rod to puncture the inner chamber. I ground a point on the end and used a sledge to pound the rod thru while the cans were mounted on the bike and the front wheel lodge against a wall. It gave it much more bass; especially on decelleration, and slightly louder overall but no where near the db levels of a superhawk bafflectomy.
I've got a pair of micron rc51 pipes on it now but had to modify the peg mounting points.
05-19-2006, 06:17 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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oopps
Thanks for the correction Superbling. Sorry I misread the post. I wouldn't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction.
I did a bafflectomy on a Ducati Monster with oval cans and that was a whole lot more difficult. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone with oval cans as you caneasily end up with a mess.
I did a bafflectomy on a Ducati Monster with oval cans and that was a whole lot more difficult. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone with oval cans as you caneasily end up with a mess.
05-19-2006, 11:14 AM
#6
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The rod was about 3ft or so. Got it at Lowes. Place it along the outside of the muffler and mark a spot on it with tape or paint well short of the overall length so you don't go to far and dent the front of the can! (BTDT) The wall you puncture is only about 1/2 way do so there's no need to go further.
NOTE: the outlet port isn't parellel with the muffler and is at a pretty significant angle so you really can't use a large ID rod or I would have so as to make a larger hole for more flow.
For a real bafflelectomy on rc51 pipes, I'm thinking a plasma cutter might work on the inner outlet pipe but I don't know if or how bad it would discolor the stainless steel. Or if the resulting hole would look asthetically pleasing.
NOTE: the outlet port isn't parellel with the muffler and is at a pretty significant angle so you really can't use a large ID rod or I would have so as to make a larger hole for more flow.
For a real bafflelectomy on rc51 pipes, I'm thinking a plasma cutter might work on the inner outlet pipe but I don't know if or how bad it would discolor the stainless steel. Or if the resulting hole would look asthetically pleasing.
05-19-2006, 07:50 PM
#8
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I tried a dremel and could cut the inner pipe all the way around but that doesn't help much as you still need to cut around the outside between the two outlets to pull that inner pipe out. The circle cutters I have or could find locally aren't deep enough to reach and my sawsall wouldn't fit. I gave up one that method and just punch the hole with the rod. The clearance between the two outlets is just too small IMO.
05-25-2006, 09:08 AM
#9
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Superbling,
Thanks for being so patient. I have another question. If I were to cut the pipe at the welds back at the outlet(a friend of mine is a welder). Could I then procede just like they were Superhawk cans? Would removing all the baffeling hurt overall tourqe and hp? Any other suggestions?
Matthew
Thanks for being so patient. I have another question. If I were to cut the pipe at the welds back at the outlet(a friend of mine is a welder). Could I then procede just like they were Superhawk cans? Would removing all the baffeling hurt overall tourqe and hp? Any other suggestions?
Matthew
05-25-2006, 10:50 PM
#10
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Well, hell, if you're going to do that, why not just buy some perforated pipe and some packing and make your own straight-through cans. Wouldn't be much more work after you've cut the endcap(s) off. Just buy the material and start doing some cutting, fitting and welding. It's doubtful your welding buddy will get the welds to look as nice as factory though. It will take a lot of sanding an polishing the weld area to get them looking stock.
Honestly, I think you're better off getting some Jardines for $400. At least they're lighter and have some R&D behind them.
Honestly, I think you're better off getting some Jardines for $400. At least they're lighter and have some R&D behind them.
05-26-2006, 06:20 AM
#11
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Would you be leaving the outlet off or welding it back on? Either way, looks wise, I don't think it would be appealing. A local guy left the entire end of his katana and it looks totally stupid. Talk about the king of megaphones! :-)
This idea does work. VTEC VFR guys can do it this way because the cans come with bolt on cosmetic endcaps. Cut off the end, gut the inner, weld it back on, bolt the cap back on, done. Looked and sounded GREAT! Cost me $40 for the welding which was NO WHERE near honda quality (he warned me) but it was hidden by the endcap.
This idea does work. VTEC VFR guys can do it this way because the cans come with bolt on cosmetic endcaps. Cut off the end, gut the inner, weld it back on, bolt the cap back on, done. Looked and sounded GREAT! Cost me $40 for the welding which was NO WHERE near honda quality (he warned me) but it was hidden by the endcap.
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