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Adding SuperBike Bars and risers

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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Hawkagain
Why would the head shake more? Lowering the tubes will increase the trail which I think is more stable not less. I agree it would probably steer like a truck!

SW
Raising the fork tubes through the triple makes the bike turn much more aggressively, however it is in turn far less stable. Do it too much and it will go into a tank-slapper under hard acceleration or rough surfaces. Lowering them, on the other hand, will make the bike much more sluggish in turning.

Last edited by Just_Nick; Sep 1, 2009 at 06:25 PM.
Old Sep 1, 2009 | 06:03 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by dannyz
I thought handling/steering would be different, possibly a little worse, just didn't know by how much.
So, the question now is by how much would handling/steering suffer? Beyond useable? Would bike just handle a bit worse, or would this be unsafe?
Try it and report back. I'm betting you won't like it.
Old Sep 2, 2009 | 05:29 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by killer5280
Try it and report back. I'm betting you won't like it.
Hey killer5280, my question was hypotetical(sp?). My VTR is all stock, but I can see possibility of this mod in the future. If I decide to do it, I will definitelly try this and report back.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #124  
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Just a heads up; so you don't waste the same time I just have....

Tag metals is no longer making/importing the T2 mounts mentioned in the previous post. The 7/8 mount has proven impossible to source from local or internet shops.

WesternPowerSports dealers/Internet sites show the part but can't actually get it.
This is WPS part number 38-4092 tag t2 +5mm mounts (-Yes I know that Tag metals part number is 4093 for the +5 rise but WPS cataloged it differently....)

Parts Unlimited suppliers sell under the part number 0603-0012 but the 7/8 size is unavailable, only the 1 1/8. Even if they tell you on the phone they are shipping the 7/8....don't ask me how I know...

The only problem with using the 1 1/8 risers/mounts is you have limited your number of bar bend options. I've only found a couple of OS bars in the superbike or european bend (LSL is the main one...) but they 'aint the $20 dollar version (LSL is $120!!)

I am still attempting to find the Moose 7/8 ATV risers but they're scarce also. Fly makes some if you don't mind the way the bolts stick out of the riser....
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...-Inch-bar.aspx

Since I now have a Tag 1 1/8 mount (see above...) those using the 1 1/8 mounts, what bars/bend are you using to clear the fairing? Or anyone have guesstimates for what the max rise/min sweep would need to be to clear the fairing/tank? I just don't want to order a bunch of bars to test nor do I want spend $120 for bars. (And yes I'm looking at bar shims/reducers options to but $30 for shims....Come on!)
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 04:43 PM
  #125  
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So this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...559669-3282102- is actually not available any more?
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #126  
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Here is another option: http://www.drivenracing.com/content.cfm/go/handle-bars

You can see them in Truck's post above.
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 03:52 PM
  #127  
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Thanks for the link chickenstrip - and what a surprise, out of 5 "Driven" dealers in Canada, one is three blocks away from my place... ha!

Which brings me to... went for a ride today, and the more I ride my FireStorm - 6000km since June - the more I think of these handlebars. If I am regular in the gym, I am OK, but if I miss it for a week or so - which happens often - my body starts showing age So, Buell pegs would probably be another mod on my list... and new, stroger springs in my forks... and SS break lines and better pads... while at that.

Have anyone here tried Swatt (3/4" higher than stock) or VFR or similar clipons AND then regular handlebars like the ones in this thread? Please share, if you have. What's the difference in comfort?
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #128  
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One question/clarification please from those that did this mod.
What about electrical lines? How much slack they have? If I decide to go with a higher handlebar, is there enough slack or can wires somehow be extended?
I am aware of fairing clearance and if I do this, I don't mind trimming it, my concern would be electrical/brake/clutch lines.

TIA
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #129  
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DannyZ if you click the size options on the motorcyclesuperstore site it says not in stock.

My local vendor was able to call TAG directly and found out they have discontinued the entire T2 lineup (bars, risers/mounts, triple etc) hence the 'not in stock." (Luckily, while on the phone the Tag guy found some in a 'return' box laying around the office and sold them to us.) If someone tells you they can get the PtsUltd #0603-0012 they either are wrong or are selling you the rubbermount standard dirtbike risers instead of the solid mount. Again don't ask how I know.....

Chickenstrip, thanks for the reply. Driven as far as I can tell doesn't sell 7/8 mounts and all of their handlebars are standard dirtbike rise/sweep. Truckinduc is running naked... sorry about the image.... and so won't have clearance issues with the fairings. Dirtbike bars don't have enough sweep/pull back to clear the fairings at full lock...unless someone who running them can tell me otherwise.

I can only find those fly solid mount risers as the straight bolt on mod for the superbike bar mod.....
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #130  
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DO IT YOURSELF RISERS

Did this mod recently myself. The biggest problem was finding risers. Found a snowmobile parts supplier called RSI on the web and bought the 2 inch angled risers. Used a superbike bar, the lines were long enough just barely. If i were to do it all over again i would use the 3 inch riser and bought longer lines. Clearance was very tight with fork tube with 2 inch riser. Had a machine shop drill the triple clamp for mounting risers. RSI makes a very good quality riser. Mod did not affect handling at all. Also bought a footpeg lowering kit from twisted throttle.com. Just 23mm down and slightly forwards made a big difference, the pegs are light with no feelers, so no ground clearance issues.
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:48 PM
  #131  
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Look at this guy's mod: http://www.bikepics.com/members/davemorgan/01vtr1000/
and how much he trimmed the fairing - I like how it looks, except for the finish. It's hard to say from the pic, but it seems that any handlebar would clear when trimmed like this.
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #132  
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Wow, that is a fairly radical trim job, looks fine aesthetically, I've been considering bar alternatives from this type of mod to VFR800 bars. I picked up a top triple clamp on flea-bay and have mocked it up, I like the position it puts me in, but, I'm just not ready to start shaving down my fairings yet. Gonna try and get a set of the VFR800 bars and compare before comitting fairi-kari.
Old Mar 7, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #133  
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another version of risers

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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #134  
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another version of risers

Never had a problem with OEM clip-ons till I hurt my left shoulder this winter.....painful with cllip-ons, bearable on dual sport, thus the riser mod.


just to add some specifics to above post:

wheeling cycle supply(Forrest Green)

Zeta SX Low Enduro Bar..................................$60
Optional lower bar mount 55mm SX risers.........$30
replacement 2pc clamp kit SX ..........................$20
grips were free

ship.............................................. ................... $7

The 55mm risers have multiple mounting positions(mine are furtherest rearward)

Had to lengthen horn wires, re-rout brake, clutch, and throttle cable to outside the fork legs.
Cut fairing and inserted spacers under fairing below mirrors to gain clearance.
Drilled hole in bars for throttle.
Cut some off bar length to reduce width.
Mounted bars with front wheel off ground to assure enough cable lengths.
forks are at OEM position in triples.

a lot of options includ lower risers for no- cut mod, rubber mounts for reduced vibs, and diff bars.
Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:33 AM
  #135  
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another version of risers

still making adjustments. Dropped rearsets back to OEM position and adjusted brake and shifter accordingly which is more ergonomic for the more upright superbike bar riding position. Loosened bar clamps, sat on the bike and pulled bars back to shorten reach.

Even though I trimmed approx 3/4" off each end, these bars are still a little wider than i think they should be. Maybe need to do another 3/4", not sure yet. Time will tell as i try to adjust to this new riding position.

The other phenomenon with these bars(fat bars in the mid-section) is that when you move the controls inward, it changes angles of the control mounts so that there is now enough adjustability to cover a wider range of reach to the front brake and clutch levers. Previously, couldn't get enough adjustment to make a real difference. Now you can.

So far, very comfortable(no shoulder pain), but it's a different riding experience than I'm accustomed to. Different from the dirt bike which is a much more sit straight up, legs forward, and shorter reach to bars.

Need more riding time to further assess this mod.
Old Apr 9, 2011 | 09:34 PM
  #136  
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Bar diameter question- One thing I have not managed to find in this thread is whether or not I need 7/8" or 1 1/8" bars/risers. Or does it not matter? I have an extra triple so want to play around with this mod, but don't know what stock size is for stock controls.... and perhaps too lazy to first take it apart.... so wondered if someone could offer some advice.

thanks!
Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:52 PM
  #137  
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Stock clip on bar diameter is 7/8".
But you can get dirt bike bars that are 7/8" diameter or 1 1/8" at the mounting point & then taper to 7/8" for the hand controls to be mounted.
So the risers you need depend on the bar you have.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 04:16 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by jim2000VTR
Bar diameter question- One thing I have not managed to find in this thread is whether or not I need 7/8" or 1 1/8" bars/risers. Or does it not matter? I have an extra triple so want to play around with this mod, but don't know what stock size is for stock controls.... and perhaps too lazy to first take it apart.... so wondered if someone could offer some advice.

thanks!
if you look at the pics above, you can tell that the bars are fatter in the the center(1 1/8") and for these you need risers to match diameter. The good part for larger diameter is increased area for securement. The other thing which could be good or bad is that the taper and bend area may affect the mounting of your clutch and brake controls. In my case , it worked out well in that, because of this, I was able to get more adjustment out of the OEM controls whereas with the clip ons, there was not enough. However, it did take some fiddling to get it right.

Another thing is that the 55mm risers may be a little high with the fat bars as i had to cut my fairing and shield to clear the bars, despite the fact that they are mounted rearward as far as possible, and this diminishes wind protection noticeably, esp when coupled with the more upright riding position. Approaching naked in terms of wind blast, which means that you need to get your chin on the tank at higher velocities and this could be a problem if you use a tank bag.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #139  
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Thanks for the insight. Since I posted that my eBay used bars and new TAG risers arrived and I can see they taper down to 7/8" for the controls. Not being a dirt biker, I was not aware of the taper issue, but this should be a piece of cake to switch over, once I get the triple drilled.

So I guess I did OK with about $20 into risers and bars then... if the height is correct of course.

More to come I am sure.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:46 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by jim2000VTR
Thanks for the insight. Since I posted that my eBay used bars and new TAG risers arrived and I can see they taper down to 7/8" for the controls. Not being a dirt biker, I was not aware of the taper issue, but this should be a piece of cake to switch over, once I get the triple drilled.

So I guess I did OK with about $20 into risers and bars then... if the height is correct of course.

More to come I am sure.
Sounds like a good price!

I cut some off the width initially, but now i'm gonna have to remove the grips off and cut some more off. Don't like the feel of wide stance and it blocks mirror visibility. PIA but that's the way it goes when you change ****.
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:58 AM
  #141  
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this is cool, perhaps little bit strip will be nicer
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:52 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by jim2000VTR
Thanks for the insight. Since I posted that my eBay used bars and new TAG risers arrived and I can see they taper down to 7/8" for the controls. Not being a dirt biker, I was not aware of the taper issue, but this should be a piece of cake to switch over, once I get the triple drilled.

So I guess I did OK with about $20 into risers and bars then... if the height is correct of course.

More to come I am sure.
can't beat that price!

I believe i've figured out the issue with the bars I bought from Wheeling Cycle(listed in a previous post). They were too wide to begin with, probably 33-34" length, so when i cut them down to 30". there was not enough straight 7/8" portion left to mount the brake and clutch without the levers being distorted. This resulted in difficulty in aligning the levers parallel to the bars. Consequently, I've ordered another bar which is only 30" overall length and which has the necessary 8.25" of 7/8" diameter with no bend to interfere with mounting brake and clutch so that alignment of the levers should be correct.

In the meantime, I have rigged the brake/clutch controls to work while waiting for the correct bars. I think it's goin to be a good set up once I get the bugs worked out. Will report later on results.

The cheapest way to go is likely the Bike Master bars(steel 7/8") with the 55mm risers as per Superbling, but i got off to a bad start with the wrong bars because i wanted the 1 1/8" aluminum instead.

Last edited by nath981; May 1, 2011 at 05:01 PM.
Old Jun 11, 2011 | 07:43 AM
  #143  
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bought spiegler low superbike fatbars(also from Wheeling Cycle, which are much better in that they have a longer area of 7/8" which allows a little room for making narrower. I cut 17-18mm off either end and reversed the risers to the forward position. This places the risers in the center of the triples(as opposed to the rear of the triples as in previous posts with the Zeta bars) and creates a little forward lean ergos and a drag bar feel. This along with the added wind foil reduces windblast a bit. Riders who want to sit back or more straight up should opt for the standard spiegler superbike bars in lieu of the Low model.








front view of the wind spoiler (from cut off windshield) mounted on thick rubber spacers.


Last edited by nath981; Jun 12, 2011 at 06:41 AM.
Old Jun 11, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #144  
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nath, it looks in those pics that you 've dropped the forks a bit. Or is that just the viewing angle?
Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by dannyz
nath, it looks in those pics that you 've dropped the forks a bit. Or is that just the viewing angle?
yes, had to drop the forks or raise the triples 10mm (effectively raising the front height)in order to clear the 55mm risers in the forward position. Previously had the risers as far back as possible and didn't have a clearance issue. When i reversed the risers forward, the preload adjusters which are sticking up quite a bit, were higher than the bars. Don't require much preload since springs are matched to rider weight.

In terms of front rear geometry, since the taller 190x55 rear tire and JD,s rear shock mod have raised the rear significantly(could be as much as 24mm total), the front being up 10mm is still 10-14mm lower than the rear. Of course the seat height has risen the better part of an inch and although I'm only 5'8", I like the additional clearance.

the Specs for the bars are on speigler's site(search "speigler superbike low fatbar" and that page will show the difference in sweep and rise and length. If you want a more upright position, go with the standard superbike fatbar(more rise and more sweep) because the Low is more akin to a drag bar esp since i trimmed 17mm off each side. The Zeta catalog and their site i believe lists the specs for their bars. if you can't find info, let me know
Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #146  
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there are honda top clamps you can simply bolt on when you remove the bars job done , easy peasy ,

!
Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:30 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by motokraft
there are honda top clamps you can simply bolt on when you remove the bars job done , easy peasy ,

!
really not that difficult to change except if you have to get longer cables and hydraulic lines. I liked the oem clip ons, but i hurt my shoulder this winter, so was trying to get a little diff position. I don't know if the standard spiegler superbike bars would require those alterations, but the spiegler low bar did not.

I wasn't aware of the honda top clamps, but that might be a good alternative.
Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:37 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by motokraft
there are honda top clamps you can simply bolt on when you remove the bars job done , easy peasy ,

!
Do you know a part # or a source for those?
Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by nath981
really not that difficult to change except if you have to get longer cables and hydraulic lines. I liked the oem clip ons, but i hurt my shoulder this winter, so was trying to get a little diff position. I don't know if the standard spiegler superbike bars would require those alterations, but the spiegler low bar did not.

I wasn't aware of the honda top clamps, but that might be a good alternative.
if you use a top yoke from a honda cb400sf super four , you can take off the hawk bars drop on the top yoke and as long as you dont go crazy with very high or wide bars you can use the stock cables , with a small bit of jostling


im not sure about the brakelines as there are braided lines on any of the bikes ive done

i also dont know what kind of clearance you have with the fairing

some other honda top clamps work , but fyi the hornet 600 is similar but doesent work because the forks a re set a little further apart ,

i think the nt650 deauville top works too (measure to be sure tho !)

i changed computer so sorry im not sure if i have any pics , but the orange and black bike in my profile is done this way ,
Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by CrankenFine
Do you know a part # or a source for those?
the honda cb400 93 - 99 definitely works , im sure there are others but wouldent like to steer you wrong with bad info ,



the bike in this clip is done this way but its not very easy to see

YouTube - ‪vtr 1000 firestorm streetfighter short clip‬‏



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