You should see the roads we ride on. However my wear pattern is nothing like Nate's.

 

this is what happens when you overheat the front tire.

 

don't run a chain guard but the swingarm is no problem. If i had to, i'd mod the chain guard.

I ran a bto16 190x50 and then a 190x55 power pure and both were too steep at the sides for a 5.5" rim. i was set to order a 180 when i mounted a 190 Q2 on a friend's bike. As soon as i saw the arc/profile, i knew it was what i wanted. Look on Dunlop's site for DP211 fitment(same shape as the Q2) and they recommend the 190x55 for a 5.5in rim for the track. Well as it turns out, it's perfect for the street because it gives you a little more contact patch whereas with the 180, i was at the ends of the tire. The other benefit is taller tire = less rotations, hence better center mileage. In fact, Dunlop makes a 190x60 DP211 which would be even better, but no dice for the Q2 because i would have tried one.

NFW, that's "no ****** way" in case you're wondering......would be hard pressed to part with my tiremen.

yeah, you're right and I'm glad you think so, because i don't want you to find me attractive.

and yeah, best tire wear i've ever experienced in terms of even and balanced.

That mileage along with flat centers is most common, but the combination of a taller tire and the fact that I nullify all engine braking contributes to longer center wear. Also, go out of my way to avoid straight roads. Ask Rob.

 

Best one i've had........ thinking that someone might comment on the left being bald while the right has a little more tread left, but most probably don't know why. At first, i was wondering myself, then I figured it out.

For euros who drive on the opposite side of the road, it should be opposite mine.

 

just got your ref to 35,000..............No. didn't add a zero, that's how many miles i have on the hawk

 

plenty of clearance even for a 190x60 dp211 if you need for track days. Here's mine with 102 chain links, 15/44 sprockets.

I wanted to try the 190/60, but they don't make it in a Q2 yet.

As you can see below, i jammed mine up as close as possible by cutting the chain shorter. There is about 1/2" clearance, so no problemos.

 

I don't know if anyone has tried the 190x55 Q2, but this is the end of my second pair and i still love this set up. Mileage is same as previous @ 3500 mi with odo correction.

For those who spend most of their time on curvy roads, this is the tire IMO. The slightly taller 190x55 gives you a few more miles in terms of center wear by virtue of fewer rotations and the added height seems to facilitate turn in, and/or at least help to nullify some of the slower turn in typical of larger tires. Despite wear to the threads, there is no flat spot in the middle. Handling is awesome, predictable and the larger contact patch of the wider tire allows full lean w/o the need to go to the edges as with a 180.

Just got a new set yesterday..... $274 including fed ex 2 day delivery from STG.

 

Following this thread with interest.
I have a question regarding the dimensions in your tag line. You have the ride height increase due to the tire alone as 12mm. Using this formula 190X.55=104.5-(180X.55)=5.5mm ride height increase. I can't come up with 12mm ride height increase that you attribute to the tire.
Is the 12mm actual physical measurments of the tire mounted as compared to the stock tire? Help me understand this. I realize the the formula I used is only approximate and tires will vary a bit between brands and different models within brands.

 

you mean people actaully read these things? haha

yeah, I messed up that measurement. I think I guestimated a half inch visually and the must have neglected to cut that in half. Dumbass. Accord to Dunlop's specs below, the 190x55 is 9mm larger dia than the 180, so that would be 4.5mm taller actual, right?

Thanks for the pointing that out. Another thing that probably has to be factored in though in terms of height is the 102 link chain that moves the axle forward to the max. This obviously shortens the wheelbase(awesome in itself), but most likely also affects height as it moves the wheel foward and up simultaneously. What this translates to in height mms would require some measurements i haven't taken yet.

Note also in the dunlop link that the 190X55 Q2 specifies a 5.5 as recommended rim size and this is a no-brainer once you try it. This is not the case for the 190 BTO16 and the 190 power pure both of which i've tried with negative results as the arc is too steep at the edges making them frightening at extreme lean angle as compared with the gentle arc of the Q2s. They are perfect and this was recently confirmed by SR's 9+ test ratings, and they didn't even use the the Q2s on the recommended wheel size. I did one 180 Q2 and it was good for sure, but doesn't compare to the 190.

One thing for sure, JDs shock mod, the jacked up rear, shortened wheelbase, the 520 conversion, the larger Q2 and the recent weight reduction of pipes has brought this bike to a whole new level handling-wise. These mods in combination have transformed the SH significantly in terms of lithe and agility.

High-Performance Dunlop Motorcycle Tires

 

I wonder if a link can be removed with a 530 chain, 180 tire and stock gearing without clearance issues?

 

has nothin to do with 520, but with sprocket sizes. You can move the wheel full forward, 180 or 190 don't matter, wrap the chain around the rear sprocket and see what you can remove. you can cut with a dremel or grinder and then you need a rivet tool to reassemble unless you use a clip type master link.

I don't know what kind of riding you do, but I'm kind of fanatical about how my bike turns or handles on the twisty roads i ride. If you're not a carver, don't bother with these tweaks because it's likely you won't even notice.

 

Thanks for the reply. I realized after I posted the question that it was naive and edited the question, but not before you answered.
At my skill level I might not notice, but that's not going to stop me from thinking I need more mods.

 

no, that's not goin to stop you from thinking you need more mods. It's only discipline and self control that will enable you to put the horse before the cart.

assuming that everything is safe in terms of the bike, the first priority should be to mod the rider..........as you improve with time, education and practice, you will discover the where, what, why and how the bike set up is limiting your ability to ride it well. At this point it's time to address those weak points and test them to verify the fix, and then move to the next one.

This doesn't seem to be the modus operandi for most however, instead they think that modding the **** out of their bikes in itself make them heroes and reduces the need for honing riding skills. The rider is the most significant component in the equation and this has been proven countless times.

don't worry about being a dumbass with me, because like I always say, we're all dumbasses, it's just that some of us don't realize it. ha

We're all learning all the time or at least should be.

 

Members like you and others on this forum have been invaluable resource to increase my knowledge of the SH in particular, motorcycles in general and improve my riding skills. The questions centered around this thread are a way for me to increase my knowledge of suspension tuning.
I am at a point with my riding that the deficiencies in the suspension are becoming annoyingly apparent. This type of discourse will help me do the right set up when the time comes.
Thanks again.

 

There are many threads on here/google that detail the basics of sag,etc., and this should be a starting point after you match front springs and rear shock to your weight.

we can go way off topic here, but understand for sure that tires and tire pressure are critical elements to tuning your suspension. Pick your favorite road and experiment with 36f/42rpsi cold and next try 28/30psi cold and you'll find out for yourself exactly what role tires/pressure play in suspension.

Extreme differences in suspension settings highlight their effects and this helps the rider to understand what each is doing and certainly this modus operandi is not specific to suspension or even to motorcycles, but most everything you endeavor to understand. Zen and the Art of................

Anyway, do the same with rebound, compression, preload settings to enlighten yourself relative to their respective effects. This is my way because I tend to get lost in all the abstract bullshit. I call it learning the real way.

The basic message here is don't believe me or any other fool w/o first proving it to yourself , that is, unless you want to be bovine.