Modified Undertail, plate, blinkers.
01-02-2010, 10:30 PM
#1
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
Modified Undertail, plate, blinkers.
Hi all.... Put this up on the Ozfirestorm forum and thought id share with everyone..
Mostly stalk on here but have been doing a few things to the storm the last few weeks (Holidays) and decided to give my rear end another go.. First off i did the usual trim of that ugly thing that could fit 3 number plates and was happy with it.. I got around to it again and decided this time to cut once and think later....
I cut into the under tail and remade a few brackets to hold the blinkers in place.. I will be glassing the under tail underneath to seal it all up and of course relocated the key for the seat. As it is now its all just sitting there and nothing is bolted up.. Pics to come of the finished product in the next few days.
Any comment's welcome good bad constructive please! Cheers, Tony.
*edit* Bafflectomy also present for anyone interested...
This is my first attempt..
This is the work in progress... Everything is just sitting in place and not bolted up..
Hope it helps other and people like it. T.
Mostly stalk on here but have been doing a few things to the storm the last few weeks (Holidays) and decided to give my rear end another go.. First off i did the usual trim of that ugly thing that could fit 3 number plates and was happy with it.. I got around to it again and decided this time to cut once and think later....
I cut into the under tail and remade a few brackets to hold the blinkers in place.. I will be glassing the under tail underneath to seal it all up and of course relocated the key for the seat. As it is now its all just sitting there and nothing is bolted up.. Pics to come of the finished product in the next few days.
Any comment's welcome good bad constructive please! Cheers, Tony.
*edit* Bafflectomy also present for anyone interested...
This is my first attempt..
This is the work in progress... Everything is just sitting in place and not bolted up..
Hope it helps other and people like it. T.
Last edited by Storm; 01-02-2010 at 10:33 PM.
01-03-2010, 09:28 AM
#4
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Croix USVI
Posts: 25
I have the same set up. I relocated the lock to the underside of the under tail (just in front of the plate since there is a nice and flat spot). The lock now faces down so to seal it I attached a rubber flap over the lock to keep the dirt out. I am also thinking about cutting out a portion of the non clear horizontal bottom of the tail light and sealing it back up with a clear plastic to provide light for the plate. I know that when you step on the brake the license plate "light" will intensify, but I think I can live with that.
01-03-2010, 05:49 PM
#5
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
The thing about the non-US bikes is that they have a clear lens on the bottom of their taillight. DOT requires US bikes have to have a separate light. There are folks out there who have cut the bottom red part and replaced it with clear lexan to get the same effect. I doubt there are any pics though, since it's been a while since this was last brought up and we've had a server crash since then.
01-03-2010, 08:02 PM
#6
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
I have the same set up. I relocated the lock to the underside of the under tail (just in front of the plate since there is a nice and flat spot). The lock now faces down so to seal it I attached a rubber flap over the lock to keep the dirt out. I am also thinking about cutting out a portion of the non clear horizontal bottom of the tail light and sealing it back up with a clear plastic to provide light for the plate. I know that when you step on the brake the license plate "light" will intensify, but I think I can live with that.
01-04-2010, 12:49 AM
#8
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
Thanks mate!! That's the plan, to do as much as i can while i get some cash together and go for braided lines, high mount pipes and a jet and so on... Just improve on it as i can... As for the car.... Where would be a good place to post pics up and put a bit of details down?
01-04-2010, 07:18 AM
#9
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Croix USVI
Posts: 25
Tony,
I am on my second hawk. The first one got SS brake lines for around $100 US (Galfer, I was not very happy with the fit of the kit, they should have called it universal kit, also one of the fittings had metal burrs which I had to remove prior to install, this was about 4 years ago. Next time I will try Spiegler, little more money, but I think the quality will be better, and I like the idea of being able to eliminate the twist during install). The lines only improved the soft feel of stock set up, the brakes were still weak. On my second hawk I did the entire F4i swap for around $30 US. I am very happy with the front brakes now. There is little grinding that is required, no big deal. In my opinion, the F4i swap is the most bang for your money when it comes to the front brakes.
I am on my second hawk. The first one got SS brake lines for around $100 US (Galfer, I was not very happy with the fit of the kit, they should have called it universal kit, also one of the fittings had metal burrs which I had to remove prior to install, this was about 4 years ago. Next time I will try Spiegler, little more money, but I think the quality will be better, and I like the idea of being able to eliminate the twist during install). The lines only improved the soft feel of stock set up, the brakes were still weak. On my second hawk I did the entire F4i swap for around $30 US. I am very happy with the front brakes now. There is little grinding that is required, no big deal. In my opinion, the F4i swap is the most bang for your money when it comes to the front brakes.
01-04-2010, 07:46 PM
#11
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
Tony,
I am on my second hawk. The first one got SS brake lines for around $100 US (Galfer, I was not very happy with the fit of the kit, they should have called it universal kit, also one of the fittings had metal burrs which I had to remove prior to install, this was about 4 years ago. Next time I will try Spiegler, little more money, but I think the quality will be better, and I like the idea of being able to eliminate the twist during install). The lines only improved the soft feel of stock set up, the brakes were still weak. On my second hawk I did the entire F4i swap for around $30 US. I am very happy with the front brakes now. There is little grinding that is required, no big deal. In my opinion, the F4i swap is the most bang for your money when it comes to the front brakes.
I am on my second hawk. The first one got SS brake lines for around $100 US (Galfer, I was not very happy with the fit of the kit, they should have called it universal kit, also one of the fittings had metal burrs which I had to remove prior to install, this was about 4 years ago. Next time I will try Spiegler, little more money, but I think the quality will be better, and I like the idea of being able to eliminate the twist during install). The lines only improved the soft feel of stock set up, the brakes were still weak. On my second hawk I did the entire F4i swap for around $30 US. I am very happy with the front brakes now. There is little grinding that is required, no big deal. In my opinion, the F4i swap is the most bang for your money when it comes to the front brakes.
01-04-2010, 07:54 PM
#12
Its A fire, Its A Storm!
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 36
Ok here we go!!
Its a Ford Falcon XA 1973 model.. 393c.i Stroker Cleveland, Holley 1050cfm, C.H.I Manifold, C.H.I Alloy heads, Scat stroker kit.. Engine mate 670 on vp 109ron race fuel and 650 on pump gas.
C4 3speed Auto. Manualised shifting 5200 Converter.
Ford 9 inch diff. Custom length axles with all "Strange" gear
And you think your super hawk seat is stiff?? Hope everybody likes it.
Its a Ford Falcon XA 1973 model.. 393c.i Stroker Cleveland, Holley 1050cfm, C.H.I Manifold, C.H.I Alloy heads, Scat stroker kit.. Engine mate 670 on vp 109ron race fuel and 650 on pump gas.
C4 3speed Auto. Manualised shifting 5200 Converter.
Ford 9 inch diff. Custom length axles with all "Strange" gear
And you think your super hawk seat is stiff?? Hope everybody likes it.
01-04-2010, 08:38 PM
#15
1998 superhawk mods.
Squid
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: sfv, LA. CA.
Posts: 21
Yo, happy new year all. Newbie here, lookin to mod my 98 hawk. I saw someone with vtr1000 sticker on the fairing, anyone know if they sell em like that or he possibly customed it? Also, is sharksins the only place that sells bottom fairings, id like to pick a set up.
01-04-2010, 10:22 PM
#16
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 421
...and I like the idea of being able to eliminate the twist during install
01-05-2010, 05:24 AM
#17
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Croix USVI
Posts: 25
My fittings were not adjustable (I was under the impression that only Spiegler lines have that). The rear fitting blocked caliper bolt, the front fittings required removal of a tab off the mc and there were burrs on the inside of one of the fittings. Finally when I called just to share my install issues (I am an engineer by education) trying to help them improve the product I got very cold reception. Like I said, this was some years back. It seems to me that at times it is hard to find quality in the aftermarket products we buy for our bikes. I am just sharing the facts about my install. Hope this helps.
01-05-2010, 05:37 PM
#18
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
Watch Galfer hardware too. They had a quality problem a few years back and the below picture was the result. Luckily I discovered it pulling out of the shed one day, and not out riding around. This banjo bolt was properly (not over-) torqued.
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