front radiator mod question
03-22-2013, 09:21 PM
#1
Crash
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front radiator mod question
Wan't sure whether to post to cosmetic or performance but here we go. My hawk is now naked or standard. I hate the look of factory radiators and bike doesn't cool well enough to drive through town in summer. I would like some specs on radiators guys on here have used. I ve been looking at SV radiators, but don't know which one is best fit. Are the diameters of in/out water pipe same as hawk's? Or will I have to find different hoses? Would appreciate pics with specs of radiator and hoses used in pic. I can't afford a lot of trial and error... thanks... here are some pics I would like more info on. and on Papa's cafe hawk I would love spec of big radiator and one ya ended up goin with.
03-22-2013, 10:21 PM
#2
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Yeah, I dont know how it would fit with a stock front end. I barely fit my zx-7 oil cooler in that space without bashing it over inevitable big bumps. I wanted to plumb in an ole ex500 rad I had but couldnt fit it or a 3rd vtr rad in the space.
May be easier with naked bike but be sure to check clearance.
May be easier with naked bike but be sure to check clearance.
03-23-2013, 05:05 PM
#9
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0020, you are running that rad with no fan, and the oil cooler smushed behind it? How many miles has it been that way and have you been caught in traffic? It would never work for me in city 100* traffic.
03-23-2013, 06:09 PM
#12
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But if you can not ride your bike in relatively mild temps of 100 deg on a summer day without overheating, that's the problem I would focus on first, before you chase issues with a MOD that did not fix a preexisting issue.
The OEM cooling system has no issues keeping my bike from overheating in Central Texas Summers, where temps seem to be about on par with what you see in Richmond, VA
On a Naked bike.. for aesthetics alone, I'd agree with you.. the front radiator is the better option.
Do you have a bike wreckers near you? That would be a great way to go look at many dozens of different radiators to see which one is a best fit to MOD.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 03-23-2013 at 06:18 PM.
03-23-2013, 06:22 PM
#13
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. Not calling the other systems out, but I'd put the undertail setup against a smaller volume front rad with no fan any time of year.
It is a lot more work to do, though.
03-23-2013, 06:40 PM
#14
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Though a properly sized front mounted unenclosed rad WITH a fan, should cool as well or better then two smaller sized RADs in the tail.
03-23-2013, 06:44 PM
#15
Crash
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I m moving to Nashville TN this summer. I ve road hawk around Nashville several times. It's all good when moving but rush hour traffic more sitting than moving. My bike does ok when moving, but fan doesn't come on until 220 degrees. I want it to run cooler. If it runs cooler the oil last longer, easier on the motor, easier on my legs. I also believe moving the radiators from side to front will cut down on heat on my legs.
03-23-2013, 06:53 PM
#16
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This is the way to do it:
Last edited by cat0020; 03-23-2013 at 07:00 PM.
03-23-2013, 07:58 PM
#17
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Kai Ju's bike is what I modeled mine after unashamedly. It's a great setup. I have my dual fans set to click on earlier than stock. Worst case scenario in the summer I see 225 F. The VTX 1800 radiator has slightly more volume than the pair of stock VTR ones. Rarely does it go above 215 though.
It's not an "ideal" setup, but it works much better than it should. I have no problem riding my bike in 115* stop and go traffic.
If your current system doesn't trigger the fan until 220, that's not an ambient temperature problem, that's a cooling system problem. A front rad with no fan only belongs on the track when the bike is either running at high speed or turned off.
All I'm saying is, the undertail system does work for me.
It's not an "ideal" setup, but it works much better than it should. I have no problem riding my bike in 115* stop and go traffic.
If your current system doesn't trigger the fan until 220, that's not an ambient temperature problem, that's a cooling system problem. A front rad with no fan only belongs on the track when the bike is either running at high speed or turned off.
All I'm saying is, the undertail system does work for me.
03-23-2013, 11:11 PM
#18
Crash
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I'll def have a fan on mine. A slim high performance 6.5 inch with high CFM's. Side mount without intake scopes in stock fairings doesn't push air efficiently. B4 and after taking fairings off 25 degree increase in running temperature after taking fairings off.
I just dont want to buy radiator and the water spouts have smaller diameter and not allow water to flow as fast...
I just dont want to buy radiator and the water spouts have smaller diameter and not allow water to flow as fast...
03-24-2013, 07:38 AM
#20
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Totally understandable, and it's a lot of work, just wanted to point out that it does work.
If you re-locate a larger oil cooler lower on the bike (in the Moriwaki location) you will free up some room in there as well.
If you re-locate a larger oil cooler lower on the bike (in the Moriwaki location) you will free up some room in there as well.
03-24-2013, 11:25 AM
#21
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03-24-2013, 12:27 PM
#22
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SmokinJoe ended up using a different variable switch after trying the Nissan one if I remember correctly.
03-24-2013, 04:05 PM
#23
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So yeah, my newest plan for more perfect cooling is an adjustable switch. This thing.
Hayden Fan Switch Thermostatic Radiator Probe Adjustable 160 240 Degrees F Kit | eBay
This way you can adjust the temp the fan comes on.
Hayden Fan Switch Thermostatic Radiator Probe Adjustable 160 240 Degrees F Kit | eBay
This way you can adjust the temp the fan comes on.
03-24-2013, 04:27 PM
#24
Crash
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I have a 5-row oil cooler ordered. I ll be placing it b/w head and oil filter behind head pipe like some others I ve seen on here. I will probably heat wrap exhaust headers also. I m in the process of transforming my bike from a "back roads, trailer to mountains and ride" into a commuter every day transportation bike. I've already made swap from pilot powers to conti. motions. Trying to do one part at a time not having bike torn down for more than day or 2 at a time.
03-26-2013, 07:10 PM
#25
Crash
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Found this pic on google. It is off a 03-08 SV1000. I ll mount it little differently. The fan has 1730 CFM but it is 2" thick.
Ebay
Radiator: $120.00
7 inch fan: $23.95
Hayden switch: $28
All I have left is to see if hoses will work.
Ebay
Radiator: $120.00
7 inch fan: $23.95
Hayden switch: $28
All I have left is to see if hoses will work.
03-26-2013, 08:33 PM
#26
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That looks pretty good. Its really just plumbing, with enuff hose, adapters and clamps, it will work. Like I said, I dont see where you are getting clearance for all that rad & fan.
I suspect honda engineers had the same issue and camp up with side rads. I guess after all the time I have spent shoehorning my oil cooler into that space, only to find the tire hits on big bumps, I just dont see it. Good luck though, keep posting.
It seems to me a curved radiator would solve alot of clearance issues, like a gixr or cbr. Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-Ho...a5fdae&vxp=mtr
I suspect honda engineers had the same issue and camp up with side rads. I guess after all the time I have spent shoehorning my oil cooler into that space, only to find the tire hits on big bumps, I just dont see it. Good luck though, keep posting.
It seems to me a curved radiator would solve alot of clearance issues, like a gixr or cbr. Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-Ho...a5fdae&vxp=mtr
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 03-26-2013 at 08:37 PM.
