Little_Horse

well here is the plan for the oil leak. I think it is leaking from one of the orings nearby the end of cylinder. It is new but I think for one reason or another it is not quite large enough to seal. Thats the plan we shall see if it works.

nath981

great plan! we try to interject a little humor meant to get your mind off these annoyances mostly caused by the slipshod manner which.........nah, just kiddin.
great build corn!

Little_Horse

Thanks nath, it helps, the reason I post about it is for some perspective that includes humor.

The frustration comes from having to do it twice, thats all I knew there was going to be issues getting this all sorted. On a side note I am considering polishing the ports while the head is off.

nath981

good idea on polishing the ports, oh yeah!

Little_Horse

making lemons frome lemonade ...





don't correct me its right lol...

nath981

sounds right to me.hahaha

If you're going to polish ports, you may want to also sand that head on glass or other straight surface. It doesn't take too much time. Now quit BS-ing and get er done!

Little_Horse

I may be picking up a couple of free bikes donor projects soon.

Hawkrider

Ha, a project like this is never complete. I just got K&N pods in the mail yesterday for my YamaCafe. I've been running just a layer of window screen to keep the big stuff out for the last year.

Great job on yours though. Your paint looks a lot better than my rattle can flat black. I will be resolving that issue this spring as soon as it's warm enough to paint again. I'll probably go with a yellow or red...whatever's available in Duplicolor Paint Shop quarts.

I'll be practicing on the Superchicken track skins first to perfect my skillz! hehehe

Have you thought about pressure testing the tank before you paint it again?

Little_Horse

yeah, I thought about it, but right now the spots are small enough the painter can touch them up seamlessly but if I ran pressure I am afraid it would spread the bubbles even more. I should have pressure tested it before it had anything on it. But I figured between checking for leaks when full and then sealing it with the kreem product I thought it would be ok. Sucks when you are wrong though huh. I guess since it is my first custom build, a couple of lessons learned the hard way.

Little_Horse

so the oil leak is not leaking right now fingers crossed it will stay that way. I had take the head off again and change the stock o-ring out for a larger one. It was both thicker and larger in diameter. This made a problem too I had to drill the head gasket out for clearance then I took the same drill bit spun it in reverse on the head where the dished section was for the original o-ring that way it put a small chamfer around the edge to give something for the larger o-ring to set to. Kinda in new territory that is why I am still waiting to announce it is fixed for sure.

Also synced the carbs today. They were a little out so hopefully that will go a long way to help in getting rolling since the bottom end is pretty flat.

Waiting to see if my tank is really sealed but that could take a while to see so I will keep you guys updated.

I am in BOTM on the sohc forum we shall see what happens lots of great competition.

Little_Horse

So I know I said I was "done" but I keep finding things to do. Like the fork brace I am making. So shoot bummer (sarcasm) I guess I am still not done . I will have pics tomorrow.

toy4xchris

Sweet welcome to the club of never finished projects that you thought you finished several times and years ago....

VTRsurfer

Up until 25 years ago (and a divorce) I had a 1959 Porsche 356A coupe for 9 years. There was something to do on that car almost every week. Adjusting the idle mixture on the twin Zeniths was a monthly duty. But it sure was fun.

Little_Horse

So it was a real pain to build with the tools I have. a mill would have made this job a breeze. Anyways it turned out nicely I think, a little sanding and polish and it would look perfect. It really strengthened the forks, now I can't get them to twist like I could before.

nath981

dam, you're good. looks nice except for the absence of protectors....I know, you'll never need them cause you'll always be ahead of everyone. hahaha

Little_Horse

alrighty so I am looking to bounce a few ideas off of the perverbial brain. I have a weird vibration in my chassis still. It feels very much as if a tire was oval an up and down type movement that seems to manifest the most at speeds above 50 mph.

So my thoughts on the matter is that it may be steering bearings. I have serviced them when I took everything apart and they seemed fine. I tried tightening them and it made little to no difference. There seems to me to be a possibility of play in the front but strangly in corners it feels really solid which also makes me think it isn't steering bearings. Yesterday I used the string method to make sure the rear wheel was aligned, and found it was off a bit so I fixed that then rode the bike around the block. First impression was that it was not as bad, but it was still there. I haven't checked the rear wheel yet to make sure it is round and not oval. I guess that is next. Any ideas or clever ways for me to start checking possibilities off of my list?

autoteach

is the chain free? You could have a hard spot that is causing the suspension to move about when that forse manifests itself. Just and idea besides the tire.

FL02SupaHawk996

+1, when I put a new chain on my SH it lost a lot of unwanted vibs!

nath981

you definitely should check the wheels to see if they're true. Of course this should have been done pre-tires, but it can be done rather easily by making a jig with a pointer, high enough that you can look at mid point from top to bottom(measure mid-point). Then just turn it around and use it for front. Check the up and down alignment first(out of round) and then the side to side. If a wheel is out a little. you may be able to tighten some spokes/loosen others, but deflate the tires before adjusting spokes. I did this to my dual sport enough and got it pretty close, enough to eliminate most of the vibs. But when it's time to change tires, both are going into the vice for alignment before mounting new tires.

I assume you had the vibs before the brace install.

Little_Horse

I checked a few more things and found the rear tire was oval with an overall deflection of about 3/16 to a 1/4r in . Funny the rim was not oval though. I messed with the spokes for a little bit and that made no change. Then I beat the tire with a rubber mallet for a few rotations and directly on the high spot, bam right away it was within less then an 1/8 some more hammering and then only a few high spots. Back to the spokes and an hour and a half later I have worked the tire into less then a 1/16 in deflection in diameter overall. I haven't tested it yet. Both wheels are true side to side, or where at least before I started messing with the rear wheel. Think this was my problem?

nath981

I believe I mentioned a while back to check the tire line around the rim on both sides and you said you did and they were okay.

Little_Horse

yes you did , seems I need to be told things at least twice. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice so hopefully I can test things out again. I may have misread what you meant before. I had checked the rim for how true it was both ways also at first I was looking at the front being the problem so forgive my slowness. "It feels like an ovaled wheel...duuuurrrr....it is an ovaled wheel."

nath981

attention to detail there young man!! hahaha........yeah, I've let the air out 3 times before i got those lines even. well it looks you may have found the problem anyway, and you probably learned a lesson in the process, maybe a couple lessons, huh.

Little_Horse

Tests confirmed that it was/is the problem. At least there is no vibes up to 55 mph which was the sweets spot for it before. I wasn't able to get the tire perfect but I think it is close enough. At least if t comes back I know where to start. So I think I can move on to the girls and bike photo shoot .

nath981

did you remove valve stem, break loose from rim, lub both sides of bead/rim, and reinflate to 50+lbs?

Little_Horse

I will try that Nath, thanks

nath981

not the valve stem but the valve gut. sorry for the mistake. If you don't get everything loose and lubed and turn the wheel so that the tire/tube is not drooping, and watch it as you air it up. They can be a bitch sometimes if you don't do everthing right/