MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How
#122
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Actually, that list is about as current as it will be... There are still bikes manufactured and sold with thyristor/diode based R/R's... Mostly the cheaper models, but also top-of-the-line... So until more models get Mosfet based R/R's and people make them available as used spares, the list will grow slowly... Anyone that can add info to it, feel free to let me know, and I'll verify the info and update the list...
#123
So I am down to the final piece of the puzzle, my tach. I just want to make sure I am on the right track.
It had a burned resistor which I replaced with info from this post from "scottiemann". I can measure my work and I get 30 ohms with (2) 1/2watt 15 ohm resistors in series.
It still didn't work
I tested the voltage of the yellow/green at the harness connector on the gauge cluster and I didn't get the 10.5v mentioned in this thread. It reads basically 0.
I checked it by stabbing the same wire before it goes into the ECU and using the ground from the R/R and I also got nothing (bike running).
I figure I use the tach to: 1.) know when to shift and to 2.) know when I am out of rpms for 2nd gear wheelies
Sorry for all the pics but I figure this might be helpful to someone else... And it helps me explain what I am doing.
This leads me to think that I need a new ECU to get my tach back. It looks like the '01-'05 models were slightly different so I should get an older unit. Have I connected all of the dots properly?
Thanks,
John
It had a burned resistor which I replaced with info from this post from "scottiemann". I can measure my work and I get 30 ohms with (2) 1/2watt 15 ohm resistors in series.
It still didn't work
I tested the voltage of the yellow/green at the harness connector on the gauge cluster and I didn't get the 10.5v mentioned in this thread. It reads basically 0.
I checked it by stabbing the same wire before it goes into the ECU and using the ground from the R/R and I also got nothing (bike running).
I figure I use the tach to: 1.) know when to shift and to 2.) know when I am out of rpms for 2nd gear wheelies
Sorry for all the pics but I figure this might be helpful to someone else... And it helps me explain what I am doing.
This leads me to think that I need a new ECU to get my tach back. It looks like the '01-'05 models were slightly different so I should get an older unit. Have I connected all of the dots properly?
Thanks,
John
#125
#127
hey tweety.. or anyone that would know... i just won an auction on ebay (52$ including shipping) for a 2007 yamaha yzr1... because there is no "splice or any indication" on the side of the bike.. does that mean I can just unplug old connectors and plug in new rectifier?? or do I still need to order a kit from eastern beaver? i have been pounding my head for an hour wondering what kit to get... but im curious if i dont even need one? thanks for info and sorry if I overlooked something.. lol
edit: i mean on the side of the bike on your list..
edit: i mean on the side of the bike on your list..
#128
you will need to find or order the plug for that rectifier,and than cut the one off the bike and put on new plug.
make sure to make clean cuts and solder the wires together with heat shrink around it.
make sure to make clean cuts and solder the wires together with heat shrink around it.
#129
ok thanks.. ok on eastern beaver.. sorry to ask.. but what one would i need?? going from a 2007 yamaha yzr1.. to my 1999 firestorm... would i just need the first set?? or what would be recommended.. i have 7-10 days till my part is here, so whenever I get a reply back i'll order them... i feel very helped on this forum.. thanks alot everyone..
#131
yessir.. exactly that.. except the one i got is grey(doubt it makes any difference) and has the marking fh012aa
YAMAHA R1 R 1 YZFR1 2007 07 2008 08 IGNITER VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECITIFIER OEM | eBay
that is link...
thank you for your time in helping me..
YAMAHA R1 R 1 YZFR1 2007 07 2008 08 IGNITER VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECITIFIER OEM | eBay
that is link...
thank you for your time in helping me..
#132
, as I just won an r/r bid[fh0012] and im still kind of confused if i need to order connectors or if my sh will plug right in.. still waiting for an answer on that part... damn what would myself or people do without you guys!!! you save a hell of a hassle thats for sure.. thanks alot man
The FH012 will NOT directly plug in to your OEM wiring harness.. Additionally, even if it did, you would want to replace the OEM plug, as it is part of the problem to begin with.
You need a set of plugs R/R Connectors
(NOTE, EASTERN BEAVER web site shows they will be closed ALL OF AUG, so order in the next few days, if you want them shipped before 1 SEP)
You then install the grey plug on the three stator wires, and the black plug .... well you can attach it to the OEM wires used for charge and ground... but I prefer to run NEW, 10ga marine grade charge and ground wires, bypassing that part of the OEM wiring harness... But that is not required.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 07-17-2012 at 05:08 AM.
#133
((NOTE.. this post moved from the carb set up thread))
The FH012 will NOT directly plug in to your OEM wiring harness.. Additionally, even if it did, you would want to replace the OEM plug, as it is part of the problem to begin with.
You need a set of plugs R/R Connectors
(NOTE, EASTERN BEAVER web site shows they will be closed ALL OF AUG, so order in the next few days, if you want them shipped before 1 SEP)
You then install the grey plug on the three stator wires, and the black plug .... well you can attach it to the OEM wires used for charge and ground... but I prefer to run NEW, 10ga marine grade charge and ground wires, bypassing that part of the OEM wiring harness... But that is not required.
The FH012 will NOT directly plug in to your OEM wiring harness.. Additionally, even if it did, you would want to replace the OEM plug, as it is part of the problem to begin with.
You need a set of plugs R/R Connectors
(NOTE, EASTERN BEAVER web site shows they will be closed ALL OF AUG, so order in the next few days, if you want them shipped before 1 SEP)
You then install the grey plug on the three stator wires, and the black plug .... well you can attach it to the OEM wires used for charge and ground... but I prefer to run NEW, 10ga marine grade charge and ground wires, bypassing that part of the OEM wiring harness... But that is not required.
#134
Just some info for those that would like another contact source for R/R's and connectors, LED voltage indicators, etc. etc. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, as I have not read this thread in it's entirety.
Jack at Roadstercycle-Index is very helpful and made up a set of connectors for my R1 FH0012 and I recieved the material in two days.
I also installed the LED voltage indicator from Roadstercycle and it is a nice peace of mind. His contact info is on his site above.
I have also used Jim at Eastern Beaver and that is a great source too, but the shipping from Japan can be slower. (Guess it depends where you are geo-wise.) Both sources are great.
Jack at Roadstercycle-Index is very helpful and made up a set of connectors for my R1 FH0012 and I recieved the material in two days.
I also installed the LED voltage indicator from Roadstercycle and it is a nice peace of mind. His contact info is on his site above.
I have also used Jim at Eastern Beaver and that is a great source too, but the shipping from Japan can be slower. (Guess it depends where you are geo-wise.) Both sources are great.
#135
Just some info for those that would like another contact source for R/R's and connectors, LED voltage indicators, etc. etc. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, as I have not read this thread in it's entirety.
Jack at Roadstercycle-Index is very helpful and made up a set of connectors for my R1 FH0012 and I recieved the material in two days.
I also installed the LED voltage indicator from Roadstercycle and it is a nice peace of mind. His contact info is on his site above.
I have also used Jim at Eastern Beaver and that is a great source too, but the shipping from Japan can be slower. (Guess it depends where you are geo-wise.) Both sources are great.
Jack at Roadstercycle-Index is very helpful and made up a set of connectors for my R1 FH0012 and I recieved the material in two days.
I also installed the LED voltage indicator from Roadstercycle and it is a nice peace of mind. His contact info is on his site above.
I have also used Jim at Eastern Beaver and that is a great source too, but the shipping from Japan can be slower. (Guess it depends where you are geo-wise.) Both sources are great.
#136
Tweety, I honestly want to thank you for your very thorough write up! You have no idea how much it helped me to understand how it works. I always read about the R/R swaps but always wanted to know how it worked and what exactly it did and this write up did just that. Amazing write up. Just wish I had read it sooner. I just came back from a ride and now I know I have to do a r/r swap ASAP. Bike is going to be parked until I can get the parts to do so. I came back from a ride and noticed a ringing noise. Popped the seat off and sure enough it was coming from the R/R. Now I'm also terrified that the electrical system is frying because there's a terrible smell coming from the connections behind the tail light. Everything is working fine though, so hoping there isn't any major damage done. Bike has a new battery but I read that I should change the R/R and batt at the same time so I'm going to bring in the battery and get a new one (under warranty) once I get the R/R swap done.
Now to find a MOSFET RR for a good price
Now to find a MOSFET RR for a good price
#137
quick question.
just recieved this kit from ebay. very happy with the quality.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-M...f5e223&vxp=mtr
now, the original r/r /plug has 5 wires and the new MOSFET price has only 3(besides the power and ground wires). now my instructions only mentioned the wires coming from the stator(3 yellow). instructions say to just use the 3 yellow wires in any order. so do I just leave the other 2? are they just the original power/ground for the oem piece which i replaced with the big red and black wires and fuse?
just recieved this kit from ebay. very happy with the quality.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-M...f5e223&vxp=mtr
now, the original r/r /plug has 5 wires and the new MOSFET price has only 3(besides the power and ground wires). now my instructions only mentioned the wires coming from the stator(3 yellow). instructions say to just use the 3 yellow wires in any order. so do I just leave the other 2? are they just the original power/ground for the oem piece which i replaced with the big red and black wires and fuse?
#138
There are a total of 5 wires in each piece. 3 yellow, in any order (you got that part). The other two, power and ground, I think you will want to wire back into the bike's power and ground. At least the power one goes back into the main fuse so it adds another level of protection.
http://www.3457.com/images/superhawk-wiring.jpg
http://www.3457.com/images/superhawk-wiring.jpg
#142
So there is no MOSFET RR that is a direct plug in? If not, what is the current recommended version and I don't mind soldering on a new connector?
When I check eBay and Amazon many of the offerings don't tell you the type of regulator.
TIA,
tsp
My Blog: Motorcycle Touring
When I check eBay and Amazon many of the offerings don't tell you the type of regulator.
TIA,
tsp
My Blog: Motorcycle Touring
#143
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
With most of the recommended replacements you don't need soldering, you can use crimping only, real easy, almost any FH model should do the job, this thread contains more info that you will ever need, just go through it attentively.
#144
Nope
\
As was mentioned, look for the FH part number. Or just get one that is off of the list in Tweety's post.
As was mentioned, look for the FH part number. Or just get one that is off of the list in Tweety's post.
#146
Got it! Looking for the FH020AA. Best price I've seen is a post by a guy on adventure rider forum for $108 without the extra wire but includes the connectors.
I was hoping this would have worked but it would need connectors I think. Also does not state the type of regulator.
Thanks for the help.
tsp
I was hoping this would have worked but it would need connectors I think. Also does not state the type of regulator.
Thanks for the help.
tsp
#147
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
Got it! Looking for the FH020AA. Best price I've seen is a post by a guy on adventure rider forum for $108 without the extra wire but includes the connectors.
I was hoping this would have worked but it would need connectors I think. Also does not state the type of regulator.
2007-2009 Honda Cbr600Rr Regulator/Rectifier Cbr600Rr/Cbr1000Rr : Amazon.com : Automotive
Thanks for the help.
tsp
I was hoping this would have worked but it would need connectors I think. Also does not state the type of regulator.
2007-2009 Honda Cbr600Rr Regulator/Rectifier Cbr600Rr/Cbr1000Rr : Amazon.com : Automotive
Thanks for the help.
tsp
#149
Thanks to this thread, my Hawk now charges correctly. I went from 13.4 at idle to 14.3v and from 13.0v @ 5k Rpms to 14.4v now. I ended up using a 2010 Zx-14 reg with the connector kit from Eastern Beaver. Under $100.00 in it all. Used the old stock ground and power leads in harness and plugged in my yuasa charger lead into it. Only thing I didn't like was the rectifier mounting holes were wider then the stock rectifiers, so it's only held on with one bolt right now.
#150
Thanks to this thread, my Hawk now charges correctly. I went from 13.4 at idle to 14.3v and from 13.0v @ 5k Rpms to 14.4v now. I ended up using a 2010 Zx-14 reg with the connector kit from Eastern Beaver. Under $100.00 in it all. Used the old stock ground and power leads in harness and plugged in my yuasa charger lead into it. Only thing I didn't like was the rectifier mounting holes were wider then the stock rectifiers, so it's only held on with one bolt right now.