E.Marquez

Or make a simple adapter plate

7moore7

You can also open up the holes to match the stock ones if I recall correctly.

triplespeed

I recently purchased a new FH020 R/R from Moto Electrix (via eBay) and installed on my 03 SHawk. Works great! It was a tight fit though...not much room on the frame to mount this new unit. I thought it would be an easy install based upon the photos I viewed at Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification but that install must have been for a 97-00 model? There is a large component (ignition module?) mounted on the RHS frame rail just behind the R/R on my bike that is not seen on the vtr1000f.wickidnet.com page. I made it fit, and it works well. However, I am wondering if the fit would be better/easier with a different MOSFET R/R unit, like the FH008? I believe that the FH008 is physically smaller than the FH012/020. Can anyone confirm? And if so, are there any R/R performance issues/differences between the FH008 and FH020?

Tweety

No difference in performance, other than the larger fins and thermal mass makes the bigger one last longer...

On the newer models it's a tighter fit yes, but it works... Just let it sit a little tilted so the cables aren't pinched...

Ochkarik

I beg your pardon, guys, but which MOSFET based R/R would be suitable to replace an OEM Honda VTX 1300 one with marking: SH579DA and with letters: T3.4 171 underneath?????..
Please, who knows the subject!!!...
It's absolutely clear for me how principally works this unit, but how to guess suitability- not clear.
Is there any link with engine capacity, ore type of generator, or what..
I was surprised when one of the sellers of R/R for VTX 1800 answered to me that they are not suitable for VTX 1300.... Is it true, or he just doesn't know???
Any opinions would be helpful!!!

Tweety

Well... Plug in, none... Plain and simple... If you replace the plugs though, just pick one in the list posted above... Which is probably the reason for that answer you got...

Ochkarik

In fact, I wouldn't be bothered to replace plugs even... I would solder wires as you mentioned above, only question is- how to find out which cables to solder together....
Or, if they are the same color, it doesn't matter?
Sorry I'm not quite familiar with bike electric principles...
- for example- these 3 yellow ones, going to a separate connector?
And, maybe you could advise also (as u r online... , where may be better to get these R/R in UK?
Checked ebay- only FH020 in a set, quite expensive...

Ochkarik

£100 is quite expensive just for Regulator, or you think it's worth it?
UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA | eBay

7moore7

^ that's priced high, but you do get the full kit (new regulator, fuse, waterproof plugs, etc.) Yellow wires do not matter for order, red and black will but this is easy to figure out and consistent between all the bikes.

7moore7

Or go used:
R1 12 Regulator Rectifier YZFR1 YZF-R1 09 10 11 Y9 | eBay

Ochkarik

Thanks... But even this Regulator has a bit different wiring- 3 + 3...
Do you know principles how to detect proper red and black (output?) ones?

Ochkarik

Found one, which looks to be MOFSET one, but with older version of marking...
Make SHINDENGEN
Marked FH689A-13
Connectors looks to be similar...
Would it be suitable, any opinions?

Ochkarik

Whoever knowledgeable, please help... I don't want to go deeper into the subject about marking and suitability, just need to get a replacement decent quality Regulator for sensible money, and to go further.... Help!... ))

7moore7

It follows this formula, so it works.


After that, the only real restrictions to fitting your bike are physical connectors and mounting points. They are all using a three waves of AC from the stator and making it usable for your 12V system.

Ochkarik

[QUOTE=7moore7;359746]It follows this formula, so it works.
Thanks for quotation, I did read it, but ... what it may mean "specific output" and how it linked with definite bike model/generator/consumption summary/ or whatever else- not clear at all...
Quite blurry description, I can see it's not very understandable for you too...
Principally, strategically idea is now more or less translucent (thanks for really nice simplified explanation of "professor")
But more practical, tactical solutions about suitability and "how to make it fit"- still quite foggy. ..
-
"only real restrictions to fitting your bike are physical connectors and mounting points" - agree in full, but to connect 3 outgoing wires with 4-wired connector- would be better to have a bit more understanding for silly me...

7moore7

Oh sorry man, I missed the important post... I thought you were asking a different question.

I'm unfamiliar with the VTX 1300 wiring, but we can start with the known. Here is one (not sure what year yours is, but it's a start)


Does this look like what you're dealing with?

So the r/r has the standard 3 yellow inputs, and then it looks like 2 red (positive) and 2 green (ground-this will be black on your r/r plug). And they appear to double up after the connector (question is, why do they do this- is it to avoid heat buildup? or redundancy?).

Not sure how to answer 100% without doing some spec research, but short answer is I don't see why it wouldn't work. Both are charging a 12v battery, and the r1 regulator is rated at something like 30 ah.

Here's for your other connector question:


note: these images are unapologetically nabbed from google images.

Tweety

[QUOTE=Ochkarik;359765]Well... What the numbers tell you about "specific output" is how many Amps the R/R can supply... Since some bikes with a boatload of electronics needs a lot, there are beefy one's that can supply 30-40-50 A... But your bike needs only 25A according to what I can find in the appropriate service manual, so anyone works...

7moore7

Ah, I couldn't quickly find the required aH for the bike, so left it out because I would have been speculating. A few pages back Marquez notes that both r/r's have an output at 30aH but the 020 one has a 50aH max and the 012 has a 35ah max output. Only thing I was able to find was relative battery size, but that's not a direct coorelation

Ochkarik

Thanks a lot, Mate... Now it's much clearer, and I have a beginning point to dig if I need more detailed comprehension.... Have nice and safe rides!!!...

Ochkarik

[QUOTE=Tweety;359793]Thanks, Professor!... And for excellent initial delivery of info, and for your answers too!
But which figures in a marking are saying this amperage?
For example, I found one from China for a good price with marking:
"FH002
4.0 251"
Via your instruction, it's a proper one, isn't it?
- does these figures mean 4 amps, or 251 Amp possible load???
Would it be suitable?

Tweety

The tip is to look at the main fuse...

Tweety

[QUOTE=Ochkarik;359801]
Nope... They don't tell you anything that way... You need to dig up the tech specs from the actual manufacturer ie Shindengen, not the OEM's like Suzuki/Honda/Kawasaki... Not that easy...

The FH002 is 25A though, so it works... Higher is just fine... It's works like a speed limit...

Ochkarik

[QUOTE=Tweety;359818]I knew it's not so obvious... )
Ufff... good... I already ordered it....
Really thankful for your help!... have a good day!

wigglers

For those who need extra clarification. It is extremely beneficial to get a MOSFET. This essentially acts as a current regulator, controlling power draw from the battery. Rather than having a current unregulated, the MOSFET essentially makes sure the RIGHt amount of power is being drawn to the motor, etc. Without one you are effectively shortening the lifespan of your motor and batteries. The MOSFET also goes a long way in protecting against any electrical arcing or blowing fuses like its 1985. To be a nerd, I have worked on airsoft guns for quite some time. Electricity is running from a battery to a motor which powers the piston, gears, ect. If you are going to be running more powerful batteries or wanting a higher power output and increased response you NEED to have a MOSFET. Otherwise everything will burn out and wear extremely fast. Hope that makes sense and helps you guys out. I have seen lots of people destroy their things due to electrical arcing. Happy riding

AgDroid

I just ordered an FH0012AA off an 07 R1 from e-bay, I'm just not sure what's the best route as far as connecting it. It seems like the simplest way is to splice / solder the connectors into the existing harness, that's pretty cut and dry.

What I'm not sure about if it makes a big difference to get one of the kits with a direct to battery connection. I've never done any electrical work and am a bit worried about biting off more than I can chew. Will attaching the connectors into the current harness be asking for more issues down the line?

NHSH

The kit is helpful, makes it easier to connect everything, the direct battery connect for positive and negative is the best route to go with as well.
The original wires by Honda are kinda crappy, as well as getting old. Not to mention that the ground wires on this bike are poor at best and it would be a good upgrade anyway.

AgDroid

I'm looking on roadstercycle.com and there seems to be two kits, one with an 30 amp circuit breaker, and one with an 30 amp maxi fuse. Is there any major difference between the two other than replacing fuses vs resetting a breaker?

Going with the kit, would I have the direct battery connections follow the current harness or just snake them so they fit? I'm not 100% on the alternator connections either. Looking at what comes with the kit, it seems that just splicing / soldering them to the existing yellow wires is how it's supposed to be done. Or are they meant to replace the yellow wires all they way to male end of the alternator plug?

The ground wire is the green one, that's attached to one of the mounting bolts right? I don't really see anything in the kits that mentions the ground wire... I'll search a round a bit to see if I can find some info on replacing that too. I appreciate the help, I am less than a novice when it comes to electrical work so I apologize for any seemingly obvious questions. I did find an old soldering gun, have been practicing tinning / splicing wires together. Making progress there at least

7moore7

I'm not really familiar with using a circuit breaker on a vehicle. Out of familiarity, I'd go with the fused kit.

You're supposed to splice into the 3 wires from the stator, no need to replace them all the way to the plug. Yes, ground wire attaches to R/R mounting bolts or anywhere on the frame. Sounds like you've got it all figured out!

NHSH

+1 Also, the order of the yellow wires from the Stator, don't matter.

AgDroid

Thanks! I'm going to try and remember to take pictures along the way. I think I'm going to try and tidy up the wiring in the tail while I have everything apart too. The PO has an aftermarket LED taillight in there and I think did a crummy job of putting it in. If you see a blue 'hawk and a rider with a white helmet and high-viz vest on near central MA make sure to wave, it's probably me