Front cam cover removal
07-24-2010, 11:15 AM
#1
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Squid
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Front cam cover removal
Hi,
I was trying to remove the front valve cover to check the timing since I think the cam chain might have jumped a tooth when replacing the cct, plus the bike dies at idle when it warm (over tightened the front cct), so I wanted to check timing while I was going to reinstall the front cct. I got the fairing, tank and airbox off, moved the oil cooler foward, and most difficult of all got all 4 screws off the front cam cover. But it will not slide out, I can raise it a bit and see that the timing mark FE and FI are not lining up right, but not enough room to work the chain off the sprockets to adjust it...Anything I might have done wrong? And is there an easy way to unscrew the cam cover bolts? took me about an hour to get the top one's off! I am now thinking of removing the carbs so the I can access it easier, but it after looking at the manual it seems a pain also...
I was trying to remove the front valve cover to check the timing since I think the cam chain might have jumped a tooth when replacing the cct, plus the bike dies at idle when it warm (over tightened the front cct), so I wanted to check timing while I was going to reinstall the front cct. I got the fairing, tank and airbox off, moved the oil cooler foward, and most difficult of all got all 4 screws off the front cam cover. But it will not slide out, I can raise it a bit and see that the timing mark FE and FI are not lining up right, but not enough room to work the chain off the sprockets to adjust it...Anything I might have done wrong? And is there an easy way to unscrew the cam cover bolts? took me about an hour to get the top one's off! I am now thinking of removing the carbs so the I can access it easier, but it after looking at the manual it seems a pain also...
07-24-2010, 11:56 AM
#3
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Superstock
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Location: Warrenton Virginia
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It will come out, it takes a little wiggling and some pulling but it will come out. Those head cover bolts are annoying, wait til you try to get them back in. I use 2 2" (3"?) extensions to a swivel to a 10mm deep socket and go in over the hose, this leaves the head of the ratchet right up against the steering head. Good luck adjusting your timing chain, I had to take the cam holders off and pivot the cam so the gear would go down and in then adjust however many links forward or backwards then put the cam back and tighten it to check it. Check the manual for how to ensure your at tdc compression to align the gears.
07-24-2010, 12:29 PM
#5
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Squid
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It will come out, it takes a little wiggling and some pulling but it will come out. Those head cover bolts are annoying, wait til you try to get them back in. I use 2 2" (3"?) extensions to a swivel to a 10mm deep socket and go in over the hose, this leaves the head of the ratchet right up against the steering head. Good luck adjusting your timing chain, I had to take the cam holders off and pivot the cam so the gear would go down and in then adjust however many links forward or backwards then put the cam back and tighten it to check it. Check the manual for how to ensure your at tdc compression to align the gears.
you would need a lot of slack for that.
07-24-2010, 12:52 PM
#7
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Squid
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By cam holders, do you mean this part with the 1 bolt in it?
http://img260.imageshack.us/i/sprocketloosecd0.jpg/
http://img260.imageshack.us/i/sprocketloosecd0.jpg/
07-24-2010, 04:26 PM
#8
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No that's not actually what I meant I meant the covers that actually hold the cams in. That is a lot of slack, I would definitely try to just slip the chain first (assuming it is out of time). Good Luck, and don't over torque those 4 head cover bolts they are not easy to get out when the snap off in the head.
07-24-2010, 07:41 PM
#9
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Squid
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No that's not actually what I meant I meant the covers that actually hold the cams in. That is a lot of slack, I would definitely try to just slip the chain first (assuming it is out of time). Good Luck, and don't over torque those 4 head cover bolts they are not easy to get out when the snap off in the head.
Thx for your help
07-25-2010, 08:23 AM
#11
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SuperSport
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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The crankshaft hole cover is made of grey cheese. It can can strip easily if the cover is seized. The cover can seize even if it's been greased. I loosen and snug it up every time I wash the bike.
Use the chisel to get the thing to rotate rather than to cut through it. I ended up pouring boiling water from a kettle on the stator cover while I held a rag over the crankshaft hole cover. I was fed up enough by that time that I didn't care if I cracked the stator cover. In any case, the stator cover didn't crack and I was able to get the cover to rotate by using a chisel and a hammer. I lack autoteach's experience and skill with a propane torch.
Use the chisel to get the thing to rotate rather than to cut through it. I ended up pouring boiling water from a kettle on the stator cover while I held a rag over the crankshaft hole cover. I was fed up enough by that time that I didn't care if I cracked the stator cover. In any case, the stator cover didn't crack and I was able to get the cover to rotate by using a chisel and a hammer. I lack autoteach's experience and skill with a propane torch.
07-25-2010, 08:34 AM
#12
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Never really used a torch, but there's one sitting in the garage, I'll try to chisel it first, and if it doesn't work I'll probably torch it, but wont it cause the paint to chip on the stator cover?
07-25-2010, 08:36 AM
#13
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The crankshaft hole cover is made of grey cheese. It can can strip easily if the cover is seized. The cover can seize even if it's been greased. I loosen and snug it up every time I wash the bike.
Use the chisel to get the thing to rotate rather than to cut through it. I ended up pouring boiling water from a kettle on the stator cover while I held a rag over the crankshaft hole cover. I was fed up enough by that time that I didn't care if I cracked the stator cover. In any case, the stator cover didn't crack and I was able to get the cover to rotate by using a chisel and a hammer. I lack autoteach's experience and skill with a propane torch.
Use the chisel to get the thing to rotate rather than to cut through it. I ended up pouring boiling water from a kettle on the stator cover while I held a rag over the crankshaft hole cover. I was fed up enough by that time that I didn't care if I cracked the stator cover. In any case, the stator cover didn't crack and I was able to get the cover to rotate by using a chisel and a hammer. I lack autoteach's experience and skill with a propane torch.
What size chisel did you use?
07-25-2010, 10:00 AM
#14
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Been there, done that...... a chisel does work well in removing it. If you are buying a new one, don't forget to get a new "o" ring also. Then don't over-tighten it when you install it and use some anti-seize on the threads. 
07-25-2010, 11:59 AM
#15
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Squid
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Been there, done that...... a chisel does work well in removing it. If you are buying a new one, don't forget to get a new "o" ring also. Then don't over-tighten it when you install it and use some anti-seize on the threads.
Attachment 9716
Attachment 9716
What size chisel did you use? Did you managed not to hit the stater cover?
07-25-2010, 05:46 PM
#16
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SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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You might get lucky with the timing hole cover.
If I recall correctly, I used a chisel and a punch and a big hammer (BFH) on the crankshaft hole cover. The hole cover is about 3 mm. thick at the edge. It's about 6 mm. thick where the bevel begins as shown in 8541hawk's photo. The chisel was 3/4" wide but width isn't critical. The punch I used was about 5 mm. wide at the tip. Take your time. You want to be sure that you've got a deep enough groove in it so the tool doesn't slip when you really wallop it. You'll get better leverage close to the edge but your chances of buggering up the stator cover increase too.
The chisel and punch method may work without heat.
The stator cover is about $154 from BikeBandit.
If I recall correctly, I used a chisel and a punch and a big hammer (BFH) on the crankshaft hole cover. The hole cover is about 3 mm. thick at the edge. It's about 6 mm. thick where the bevel begins as shown in 8541hawk's photo. The chisel was 3/4" wide but width isn't critical. The punch I used was about 5 mm. wide at the tip. Take your time. You want to be sure that you've got a deep enough groove in it so the tool doesn't slip when you really wallop it. You'll get better leverage close to the edge but your chances of buggering up the stator cover increase too.
The chisel and punch method may work without heat.
The stator cover is about $154 from BikeBandit.
07-25-2010, 09:24 PM
#18
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I just used a chisel. As you can see from the pics I had to try in a couple places to get a good bite and get it to turn. I didn't hit the stator cover or cause any damage to it at all. Also the chisel was around .5" or so.
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