I have a coolant leak on my front carb at the fitting that the coolant comes into and then back out to the rear carb. Is there a seal or anything that can be replaced?

 

Nothing other than a spring clip around the hose. Hoses are most likely dried out. Best to replace all of the coolant hoses.

 

Already did that. Hoses and clamps all in good shape. On the carb component diagram, there are two small O rings on that fitting that goes into the carb. Can they go bad? It looks like I can order those. If I decide to try that, it looks like the hose fitting is held in place by the side bracket that holds the carbs together. Is that correct?
Reading some other threads about leaking issues, it seems common for older bikes to get crusted up inside requiring extensive soaking to try to clean up internal passage ways. At that point, some opt to get rid of the coolant lines altogether. I really don’t want to go to the extreme of taking the carbs all apart .

 

Our bikes are, in my case, 26 years old. Of course they can go bad. I'm guessing that you can't tell if the leak is from the hose or at the fitting o-ring. What I did is remove all the coolant supply to the carbs. Whether or not that is a good idea, I can say that I have not had any problems in colder temps. Keep in mind that it doesn't get cold here for that long and I don't ride below freezing temps. Where you live (Jupiter FL?) winters are warmer yet. I say remove the trouble makers and eliminate some points of failure.

 

Thank you for your response. I am leaning on doing what you suggest. I’ve looked for a “ how to”, for bypassing the carbs coolant connections. Since you have already removed them from your bike, would you please let me know that needs to be disconnected, capped or clamped off or re-routed if necessary. Thanks again for your help.

 

It's been a while since I re-routed the carb coolant lines. What I remember is the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the rear carb now goes directly to the water pump.

 

Thanks for your reply. If I decide to bypass the carbs and since you have done it. What do I need to unhook, cap off or whatever to properly bypass the system?

 

Simply bypass the carbs. Go directly from the thermostat housing to the water pump.

 

I vote bypass carbs.

 

On the subject......would removing the carb heating/coolant line altogether and capping the 2 barbs lead to any issues?
It would leave the coolant bypass line as the lone circulation with a closed thermostat..................

 

Not sure how to feel about your chosen screen name.
No issues removing the flow of coolant to the carbs.

 

I found over the years that even with timely draining flushing and replacement of the coolant the carb fittings, which are there to heat the carburetors in cold weather as stated, become clogged up anyway...

I have 5 sets of carbs and every 12000 miles or so I swap them out with rebuilt units. Also shares wear on the slides, which have a friction reducing coating.

Years ago I bought a few spare replacement fittings and O-rings because even hot ultrasonic cleaning will not open clogged fittings.

Being I live where it snows, those bigs carbs, the biggest Honda put on anything, need all the help they can get to atomize distilled dyno juice.