I'm prepping to install a GSXR R/R as well. Any pics you have of this that you could send me are greatly appreciated.

 

Missing pics added to original post. In less than a month, it will be three years since this mod. Best $9.99 (plus shipping) I think I've ever spent!

 

Alas, posting photos' on websites exceeds my abilities. However, my GSXR R/R is mounted plumb against the flasher relay (?). I did need to drill two new mounting holes though. With the seat off, and the tail section in place but not bolted down I was able to play with R/R and find a spot with enough clearance to avoid trimming the R/R or rubbing against the tail section when buttoned up.

 

I have purchased a rectifier regulator from a 04 to 06 Yamaha R1.

The link in this thread to a wiring diagram of the substitution is dead. (Monomaster 10-09-05)Does anyone have a good link?

Or just a link to where I can get the pinouts for the plugs. I know how to wire it.

Thanks

Tom

 

I got the new rectifier /regulator today (Wasn't that a good ebayer!!??)

Wiring will be easy. There are only the 5 wires that show in the picture I linked yesterday.
But

(There's always a but isn't there<G>)

It's huge. About 4" long, 3 inches wide and ***3 inches deep*** . The thing has huge heat sink fins on the top. I have to figure out where to put it.

Tom


Ps here's the link to the installation. I must not have posted it.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...ic=29102&st=60

 

I have an R1 unit on mine.

Good thing about R1's and GSXR's is find a track bound road bike thats being converted for racing as much of the electrics are whipped off. I got my brand new condition R1 rectifier for 20 bucks.

Heres a working link for good instructions:

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

 

I may be way off on this, but couldn't the rectifier just be failing due to excessive operation? It seems likely that many people just hop on the bike for a quick ride around the block too frequently. This results in a low voltage in the battery, causing the rectifier to continually push high amperage through the charging circuitry to keep the battery topped off. As a result of its constant operation, it makes sense that the rectifier would prematurely fail. Any improved cooling design would do little more than slightly delay the inevitable if this is the real cause of failures. The other possibility, as I see it, is that the charging system of the VTR simply has an output too low to properly charge the battery under normal operation. This would also cause the rectifier to "work overtime" as it were, leading to premature failure of the unit. Does this make sense to anyone else?

 

Yes Bocker, the 90's era Honda charging system in general as been dissected, diagnosed, discussed, and damned for many, many years.

Bottom line is the original r/r is under designed and Honda did eventually upgrade it with fins.

 

The R/R actually "works" easier when it's charging the battery. When it's not charging it has to convert all the energy from the generator into heat. This is what eventually kills it.`

 

Let me see, on the 280 watts available = 21.8 amps (280 w / 12.85 volts average) less observed 12.9 amps average consumed by the OEM electrical systems at +3,500 rpm = 8.9 amps available for accessory electrical loads. Now add 2.75a (35w / 12.85v) for my heated vest, another 2.75a for heated grips, about 1.95a for my red neon license plate surround auxiliary brake light (got to go to LED one of these days), 4.2a for the OEM type brake lights (I run #2357), plus 2.0a for rear running lights because I'm running the OEM front TS/RL on the rear (I have LP Flushmount III TS/RL on the front), pile on another 7.8a for my twin 50w halogen driving lights when I occassionally use them, and ignoring my hard-wired radar detector, borrowed GPS and the turn signals = about 21.5 amps total accessory load. Hmmmm, now if my math is right, that is -12.55 amps or -4.75 amps if I don't run my driving lights. On the prevention side, I bonded a PC CPU heat sink with 50X50mm 12v cooling fan onto the stock 1998 VR/R (03/07 birthdate actually), drilled holes in the bottom side of the rear cowl rearward of the VR/R and covered the holes with a reverse NACA duct to draw air out and installed a small intake duct at the front edge of the rear cowl near the rear brake MC. Now (KOW), after 50k+ miles I'm still running the original 1999 battery! All I do is keep the connections/contacts clean and protected with dielectric grease, and the battery on a Deltran BatteryTenderPlus using my coaxial QD outlet I plug my vest into. This outlet also is used to run other devices with a splitter, and makes it easy to check battery voltage without removing the saddle.

 

I just look at it this way - I don't know of anyone (though I'm sure there is) who ahs replaced or modded the RR and had it fail. I've known plenty whose OE stock ones have gone.

 

SQUID!!!

 

In 1972 well after midnight I was on my BSA Gold Star Rickman Matisse scrambler snugged-up so close to the curb I could rest my foot on it waiting for the traffic signal southbound on Deloras at 20th in San Francisco. Suddenly the hair on the back of my neck stood up and my body turned cold and froze. What caused this I actually felt before I heard it, as what flew by me on my right had rumbled up Deloras hill and literally shook me as it blew by within a fraction of an inch of my elbow. What just missed punting me to into an early grave was almost 2-tons of chopped and lowered mid-60s Chevrolet low-rider. The driver had not even zagged to avoid me as the Chevy launched itself in the air and landed on the flat of 20th Street on all four wheels with a loud series of bangs and clangs, then careened upward into the hill of Deloras Street, its nose hitting first then undercarriage bottoming all in a shower of sparks and flashing chrome. The Chevy driver stomped on the accelerator peddle again, and the behemoth continued on up the hill as it fishtailed back and forth into the night. All this took place in the time the light went from red to green, and when it did, I released the rear brake with my left foot and shakily clomped with my right foot the gearbox down into 1st and made the left turn onto 20th Street. My little street-level garage was just two doors down on the right but I do not remember sliding the door open or rolling the BSA in. I only recall sitting on my BSA after apparently remounting it once inside, and in the oily dark contemplating what had just occurred while trying to start breathing normally again. Since then I ALWAYS HAVE RUN AN AUXILIARY REAR BRAKE LIGHT, leave the transmission in 1st gear, and watch my mirrors like a hawk.

Now can you dig it sonny?

 

 

I know where you're coming from. I saved my own *** from being a Greg sandwich about 8 years ago. Only thing that saved me was keeping an eye on the mirror. The guy hauling the 25' boat screeched to a halt about a foot from the bumper of the car I was behind after I took off onto the shoulder. In addition to your recommendations, I'd like to add to never pull up so close to the car in front of you that there is no escape path. As for "bling", no neon for me. I use LEDs, in the Hyperlites variety.

 

Before I was old enough to have a bike or car, I tried sitting on the hood of the car pushing the remains of my moped across an intersection... Not a fun thing to try... That's the reason I use a brakelight modulator... AND checks my mirrors at stoplights...

I was mostly unharmed, scared shitless, but the moped was scrap metal... I was atleast pissed off enough to stand my ground and demand he'd call the cops... (in the 90's 15 year olds didn't have cell phones... )

When the cops show up they know me by name... And the ironic thing is that when the guy claims I had no taillight, the cop on scene pulls the mangled moped out from under the car and looks at the still lit taillight, pumps the handle and the brakelight works!!! That had to be the only thing still working at that point...

That guy got his license pulled... I got to ride home in a police car... Definetly the first time that happened when I hadn't done anything... I'm still the only one around here with a ticket for doing 35mph above the limit in a 50 zone on a moped... wonder why the cops knew me...

The good thing thoo... they knew for damned sure I wouldn't ride around with a busted taillight...

 

I'd run a tail light-to-brake/running light converter but when we started manufacturing the neon license plate surrounds over 15 years ago (long before decent LEDs were available), I found that neon was much more effective than incandescents. I also run a headlight modulator. And yes I always try to leave myself an out at a stop.

The point of my breakdown of amperage was that even with only 280 watts available (versus now over 600 on the big rigs), we can still run quite a bit of auxiliary devices on our VTRs as long as the electrical system is maintained properly.