winterizing...
#1
winterizing...
there's only about 2 or 3 months of bad weather, tops, in my area in the winter. if i go out to the garage once a week and let the hawk idle for a minute or two do i really need to prep it for winter storage?
#2
If you're going to do that you really need to let it reach full operating temperature. You need to get the oil hot enough to evaporate any moisture in it. By just letting it idle for a few minutes you're going to create condensation.
I put gas stabilizer in and disconnect the battery. That way if there's a break in the weather I can just connect the battery and start it. I don't start it unless it's actually going to be run at full temp.
I put gas stabilizer in and disconnect the battery. That way if there's a break in the weather I can just connect the battery and start it. I don't start it unless it's actually going to be run at full temp.
#4
Change the oil, fill the tank, add Stabil, then run the bike for a few minutes. I put my bikes on stands and connect a battery tender. Oh yeah, don't forget a good cleaning and some wax.
#6
I change brake and clutch fluid, coolant, oil and filter, add Sta-Bil to a tank filled to the brim, drain float bowls, pull battery and charge on a Battery Tender once a week, clean and wax, cover with a soft flannel sheet, and park bike on a Pit Bull stand. Good to go in the spring every year since '99.
#7
Happy T-Day
All good suggestions, especially draining the float bowls but don't forget first removing the spark plugs & squirting a bit of motor oil into the cylinders and turning the motor over a few cycles to spread it around (be sure to ground the spark plugs or you'll damage the spark unit). Since its a good idea to bring the engine up to operating temoerature and change the oil, as soon as you shut it off put doubled-up small plastic "dixie cups" in each exhaust can outlet and stuff a small plastic bag into the air box snorkel. Cold air is drawn in and however unlikely could tweak a super-heated exhaust valve. Doing so also minimizes the chances of little creepy-crawlies and critters from nesting. Some good liquid "wax" left on painted surfaces leaves a protective film and don't forget to gently clean and coat fork sliders & the shock shaft with a light coat of fork oil. There actually are several other things I do to "winterize". I have a "winter bike" I run that the road salt does not seem to bother, though I still wash it when I get back to the Bret Cave.
I have not figured out why one needs to put the vehicle up on stands though, to keep the tires from developing flat spots? With modern tires the first mile or so on the road will work out the "flat spots". I suppose it you park in water or oil it would be a good thing but contact with dry concrete or sealed asphalt should not be an issue. Reduced tire air loss from removing vehicle load is a weak point; same goes for no load on the wheel bearings.
I have not figured out why one needs to put the vehicle up on stands though, to keep the tires from developing flat spots? With modern tires the first mile or so on the road will work out the "flat spots". I suppose it you park in water or oil it would be a good thing but contact with dry concrete or sealed asphalt should not be an issue. Reduced tire air loss from removing vehicle load is a weak point; same goes for no load on the wheel bearings.
#10
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