Twist of the Wrist II
12-03-2009, 09:40 AM
#1
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Twist of the Wrist II
Who else has read this book?
I read the first one a few years back and didn't feel like I got all that much out of it.
My riding has always been based on trying to be smooth, relaxed and light on the bars. But Keith Code takes these concepts to the next level, with a technical breakdown of the effects of all of the rider's inputs to the bike.
The first few sections are about throttle control and controlling chassis attitude and weight distribution with the throttle.
He then goes into cornering and ties it in with the throttle and all fo the other rider inputs.
This is the first book I've read that I have felt I can immediately apply and make big progress. It doesn't emphasize going faster, per se. More about being relaxed and non-reactive and letting the bike do what it does naturally. By doing that, the speed will come.
Once again - highly recommended.
I also bought Andrew Trevitt's Suspension Tuning book. Not a lot of new stuff in it for me, but it is a good perspective on the basics of bike setup and underlying concepts. It reinforces what I had put together in my discussions and fiddling. It is a good reference for people who want to understand chassis tuning concepts.
The 3rd book I bought was Performance Riding Techniques, by Andy Ibbott - lots of cool MotoGP pictures. I haven't read it yet. I think Keith Code's concepts will keep me busy for a while, but it will be another good read over the winter.
-RC
I read the first one a few years back and didn't feel like I got all that much out of it.
My riding has always been based on trying to be smooth, relaxed and light on the bars. But Keith Code takes these concepts to the next level, with a technical breakdown of the effects of all of the rider's inputs to the bike.
The first few sections are about throttle control and controlling chassis attitude and weight distribution with the throttle.
He then goes into cornering and ties it in with the throttle and all fo the other rider inputs.
This is the first book I've read that I have felt I can immediately apply and make big progress. It doesn't emphasize going faster, per se. More about being relaxed and non-reactive and letting the bike do what it does naturally. By doing that, the speed will come.
Once again - highly recommended.
I also bought Andrew Trevitt's Suspension Tuning book. Not a lot of new stuff in it for me, but it is a good perspective on the basics of bike setup and underlying concepts. It reinforces what I had put together in my discussions and fiddling. It is a good reference for people who want to understand chassis tuning concepts.
The 3rd book I bought was Performance Riding Techniques, by Andy Ibbott - lots of cool MotoGP pictures. I haven't read it yet. I think Keith Code's concepts will keep me busy for a while, but it will be another good read over the winter.
-RC
12-03-2009, 10:11 AM
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Tying this in to the previous discussion about traction, one of the key points that he emphasizes very strongly, is that if you take the total contact patch for the front and rear tires, the rear has 60% and the front has 40% of the total area, when cornering. Therefore, this the optimum weight distribution for maximum cornering traction.
That is achieved by getting on the throttle as early as possible. As you approch the maximum lean angle, you are already on the gas, transfering weight to the rear tire. From there, you pregressively and continuously roll on the throttle, until you are stood up and wide open. There is no slack time on the throttle. There is a lot that goes into setting up this ideal scenario, but that's the basic idea. You don't want unweight the front tire in the turn, you just want to achieve optimum weight distibution. Subtle, but very important for increasing corner speed without losing grip at one end or the other.
That is achieved by getting on the throttle as early as possible. As you approch the maximum lean angle, you are already on the gas, transfering weight to the rear tire. From there, you pregressively and continuously roll on the throttle, until you are stood up and wide open. There is no slack time on the throttle. There is a lot that goes into setting up this ideal scenario, but that's the basic idea. You don't want unweight the front tire in the turn, you just want to achieve optimum weight distibution. Subtle, but very important for increasing corner speed without losing grip at one end or the other.
Last edited by RCVTR; 12-03-2009 at 10:13 AM.
12-03-2009, 10:17 AM
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have read both, and the trevit book. agree with all points. I think "II" is better to read. sometimes he gets so hung up on breaking everything down into the littlest steps its gets tiresome reading. Is this the version with Chandler comments in the margins also? those were nice addition.
12-03-2009, 10:18 AM
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The corrolary to that is, if you whack the throttle open with the weight still transferred to the front, the rear tire will slip. If you generate too much cornering force with the fornt tire loaded up, you'll tuck the front.
I don't explain it with the technical mastery that Mr. Code does, but I think it gives a pretty good mental picture.
I don't explain it with the technical mastery that Mr. Code does, but I think it gives a pretty good mental picture.
12-03-2009, 10:22 AM
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have read both, and the trevit book. agree with all points. I think "II" is better to read. sometimes he gets so hung up on breaking everything down into the littlest steps its gets tiresome reading. Is this the version with Chandler comments in the margins also? those were nice addition.
Yeah, Mik - it's been too long. Last season was a disaster. I picked at the little pinhole in the gas tank and a chunk flaked off leaving a gaping hole. Good thing I don't burn the bike up, no?
Brazing it up at lunch today...
12-03-2009, 07:26 PM
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Tying this in to the previous discussion about traction, one of the key points that he emphasizes very strongly, is that if you take the total contact patch for the front and rear tires, the rear has 60% and the front has 40% of the total area, when cornering. Therefore, this the optimum weight distribution for maximum cornering traction.
That is achieved by getting on the throttle as early as possible. As you approch the maximum lean angle, you are already on the gas, transfering weight to the rear tire. From there, you pregressively and continuously roll on the throttle, until you are stood up and wide open. There is no slack time on the throttle. There is a lot that goes into setting up this ideal scenario, but that's the basic idea. You don't want unweight the front tire in the turn, you just want to achieve optimum weight distibution. Subtle, but very important for increasing corner speed without losing grip at one end or the other.
That is achieved by getting on the throttle as early as possible. As you approch the maximum lean angle, you are already on the gas, transfering weight to the rear tire. From there, you pregressively and continuously roll on the throttle, until you are stood up and wide open. There is no slack time on the throttle. There is a lot that goes into setting up this ideal scenario, but that's the basic idea. You don't want unweight the front tire in the turn, you just want to achieve optimum weight distibution. Subtle, but very important for increasing corner speed without losing grip at one end or the other.
"Schwantz also urges students to get the throttle cracked open ASAP after releasing the brakes when entering the corner."
of course he qualifies this by saying not a fistful but subtle, barely detectable, and may i highlite "barely".
As i wrote in the thread below describing my experiences:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=20734
I don't really feel comfortable with it since I figured out that when you release the front brakes when entering the turn, this act in itself serves to balance the front rear due to fork rebound. If you time your throttle roll-on perfectly as the forks near the top of their rebound, the front tire is unweighted and your down faster than you can react. That said, it does work, but I suggest that when you release the brakes, let the forks rebound fully, wait a second, then gingerly roll-on to neutral throttle.
think about fork rebound and throttle-on by using this analogy: to wheelie: engage front brakes and this compresses the forks, as you release the brakes, the forks begin to rebound, then quickly grab a handful of throttle and this combination of rebounding forks and throttle extends the forks unweighting the front easily lifting the wheel off the ground. This exaggeration of what happens when you roll the throttle on to neutral throttle as the forks are rebounding demonstrates how you fragile of an operation this is.
That's why I feel more comfortable now keeping the front brakes engaged while transitioning to neutral throttle while at lean and use the brakes and throttle in combination to function as one, somewhat like a rheostat.
12-04-2009, 03:09 AM
#10
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that is alot to be thinking about while cornering. ive never really used alot of brake to set up for a curve. im a novice and preffer to have my corner speed to be set well before a curve. i really apreciate these book suggestions and will be looking for them.
12-04-2009, 05:06 AM
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This is interesting. I was just talking with a friend who has attend all levels of Mr. Codes schools.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
12-04-2009, 06:13 AM
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This is interesting. I was just talking with a friend who has attend all levels of Mr. Codes schools.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
Good idea. We spend much effort trying to tweak every little bit to make the bikes better forgetting that we can derive much more for much less by improving knowledge and riding skills. I think we should have a forum category for RIDING SKILLS.
Google: Freddie Nick trail braking
Freddie Spencer school
Yamaha Champions Riding School
these schools were/are very expensive, but a few riders logged their experiences in detail and it's the next best thing unless you have the $$$
It depends on whether your talking street or track. When you ride track, you're not concerned with going across the line into oncoming traffic or into a guard rail or bridge abutment. Covering the brakes while negotiating blind corners, over blind humps, intersections and in many places on the street gives you that millisecond edge. Trl Brk also has benefits of increasing contact patch on the front, reducing wheelbase, deepening turn-in(not running wide which could be the result of bottoming out but usually of excessive throttle, both of which will cause you to run wide),and best of all hyper ready to react smoothly to anything unexpected because your already at the point of brake activation. The difference between brake on and slight drag is only a couple mm at the brake lever enabling quick and smooth actuation if needed to tighten line, or even stop suddenly in mid turn-the freddie spencer way.
I'll admit it feels strange, weird, and maybe a little unsettling until you learn how to put it all together into what can be described as one rheostat controlling braking, acceleration, and lean.
In the final analysis, each of us has to determine what is right for him/her. That said, if everyone tries to be honest about what they experience and learn, we have a rich and diverse knowledge base from which to draw from making us all better riders, maybe a little faster and a little safer too.
Last edited by nath981; 12-04-2009 at 06:22 AM.
12-04-2009, 07:45 AM
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just watched the twit II dvd a few times in the last few weeks--usually just turn it on when i have some down time. always something new pops at out me just with anything else whether its reading or listening or watching.
if some of the stuff is unclear in the book, its really clear in the dvd. id say to the point that its almost kid-gloved. the acting is hokey as all hell, and obviously strained. but if you can get past that, the information is really pretty good.
i've done level 1 @ CSS, and it covered everything the dvd did, in pretty much the same order. cant remember if the book covered more of the visual stuff, but i think so. that get's covered in level 2+.
i hear great things about jason pridmore's star school. if you already have a good foundation on techniques, pridmore will give you a way more technical approach, bordering on overload.
rcvtr, any other books besides trevitts you might recommend for suspension? (despite being $ and old school, i like professional press alot, compared to alot of the crap i find on the inter-web. it's not ALL crap, but there's definitely alot of crap to sift through.)
if some of the stuff is unclear in the book, its really clear in the dvd. id say to the point that its almost kid-gloved. the acting is hokey as all hell, and obviously strained. but if you can get past that, the information is really pretty good.
i've done level 1 @ CSS, and it covered everything the dvd did, in pretty much the same order. cant remember if the book covered more of the visual stuff, but i think so. that get's covered in level 2+.
i hear great things about jason pridmore's star school. if you already have a good foundation on techniques, pridmore will give you a way more technical approach, bordering on overload.
rcvtr, any other books besides trevitts you might recommend for suspension? (despite being $ and old school, i like professional press alot, compared to alot of the crap i find on the inter-web. it's not ALL crap, but there's definitely alot of crap to sift through.)
12-04-2009, 09:02 AM
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I wish you luck with this method. I've subscribed to this for many years, taught my son and everyone i could to use it and have been smooth as could be, but lost the front in a high speed right hander, just as I rolled onto what I called neutral throttle (Schwantz refers to it the same, go figure). It works okay if you do it just right and accord to the new CW article on Kevin Schwantz riding school, he also teaches it:
"Schwantz also urges students to get the throttle cracked open ASAP after releasing the brakes when entering the corner."
of course he qualifies this by saying not a fistful but subtle, barely detectable, and may i highlite "barely".
As i wrote in the thread below describing my experiences:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=20734
I don't really feel comfortable with it since I figured out that when you release the front brakes when entering the turn, this act in itself serves to balance the front rear due to fork rebound. If you time your throttle roll-on perfectly as the forks near the top of their rebound, the front tire is unweighted and your down faster than you can react. That said, it does work, but I suggest that when you release the brakes, let the forks rebound fully, wait a second, then gingerly roll-on to neutral throttle.
think about fork rebound and throttle-on by using this analogy: to wheelie: engage front brakes and this compresses the forks, as you release the brakes, the forks begin to rebound, then quickly grab a handful of throttle and this combination of rebounding forks and throttle extends the forks unweighting the front easily lifting the wheel off the ground. This exaggeration of what happens when you roll the throttle on to neutral throttle as the forks are rebounding demonstrates how you fragile of an operation this is.
That's why I feel more comfortable now keeping the front brakes engaged while transitioning to neutral throttle while at lean and use the brakes and throttle in combination to function as one, somewhat like a rheostat.
"Schwantz also urges students to get the throttle cracked open ASAP after releasing the brakes when entering the corner."
of course he qualifies this by saying not a fistful but subtle, barely detectable, and may i highlite "barely".
As i wrote in the thread below describing my experiences:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=20734
I don't really feel comfortable with it since I figured out that when you release the front brakes when entering the turn, this act in itself serves to balance the front rear due to fork rebound. If you time your throttle roll-on perfectly as the forks near the top of their rebound, the front tire is unweighted and your down faster than you can react. That said, it does work, but I suggest that when you release the brakes, let the forks rebound fully, wait a second, then gingerly roll-on to neutral throttle.
think about fork rebound and throttle-on by using this analogy: to wheelie: engage front brakes and this compresses the forks, as you release the brakes, the forks begin to rebound, then quickly grab a handful of throttle and this combination of rebounding forks and throttle extends the forks unweighting the front easily lifting the wheel off the ground. This exaggeration of what happens when you roll the throttle on to neutral throttle as the forks are rebounding demonstrates how you fragile of an operation this is.
That's why I feel more comfortable now keeping the front brakes engaged while transitioning to neutral throttle while at lean and use the brakes and throttle in combination to function as one, somewhat like a rheostat.
When I read your description of fork rebound, I can't help but think that you would benefit from more rebound damping. Maybe it's just the description, but the chassis sure sounds like it is changing attitude quickly. I know when you have way too little rebound damping the front end starts to wallow - I don't think you are there, but if my bike did what yours sounds like it is doing, I'd want to slow the rebound down a bit. Just a guess. It may prevent unweighting the front wheel so abruptly.
I'd have to say that I do recommend Andrew Trevitt's book. I think it is the best collection of setup fundamentals that I have seen. He gives good, technical descriptions of the variables - rake and trail, spring preload vs. spring rate, high and low speed damping effects, etc. It is a great reference for understanding the fundamentals.
Last edited by RCVTR; 12-04-2009 at 09:06 AM.
12-04-2009, 09:49 AM
#15
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This is interesting. I was just talking with a friend who has attend all levels of Mr. Codes schools.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
He stated he does not trail brake. He brakes late using maximum traction points for braking, lays it over and accelerates as soon as possible. Said he watches the guys trail braking, and they are running a little wider. Faster entry, but the wider turn slows them down, he out-accelerates them out of the corner.
I think I need to buy some of these books, post haste.
Here is an interesting thread from superbikeschool.com where trailbraking is discussed by some pretty high level riders.
http://forums.superbikeschool.com/in...?showtopic=828
(Actually, after doing a search on that site I see that there are quite a number of interesting threads on the subject.)
Last edited by killer5280; 12-04-2009 at 10:01 AM.
12-04-2009, 10:04 AM
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I am most comfortable with easing off the brakes as I enter the corner, because it allows a more gradual weight transfer. It's how I taught myself to ride and feels good to me. I do want to get on the gas earlier.
When I read your description of fork rebound, I can't help but think that you would benefit from more rebound damping. Maybe it's just the description, but the chassis sure sounds like it is changing attitude quickly. I know when you have way too little rebound damping the front end starts to wallow - I don't think you are there, but if my bike did what yours sounds like it is doing, I'd want to slow the rebound down a bit. Just a guess. It may prevent unweighting the front wheel so abruptly.
I'd have to say that I do recommend Andrew Trevitt's book. I think it is the best collection of setup fundamentals that I have seen. He gives good, technical descriptions of the variables - rake and trail, spring preload vs. spring rate, high and low speed damping effects, etc. It is a great reference for understanding the fundamentals.
When I read your description of fork rebound, I can't help but think that you would benefit from more rebound damping. Maybe it's just the description, but the chassis sure sounds like it is changing attitude quickly. I know when you have way too little rebound damping the front end starts to wallow - I don't think you are there, but if my bike did what yours sounds like it is doing, I'd want to slow the rebound down a bit. Just a guess. It may prevent unweighting the front wheel so abruptly.
I'd have to say that I do recommend Andrew Trevitt's book. I think it is the best collection of setup fundamentals that I have seen. He gives good, technical descriptions of the variables - rake and trail, spring preload vs. spring rate, high and low speed damping effects, etc. It is a great reference for understanding the fundamentals.
as far as the method you feel comfortable with, I am with you because that's me too, until I read the John Burns article on the Yamaha Champions Riding School. I read it over 3 times and then searched the internet and attended the school via 3 others who had the bucks to pay and were gracious enough log their experiences in significant detail. Needless to say, i was a bit consumed, cause riding is a major obsession for me. After much reading and practicing, I'm hooked. I'm not saying I can't ever change, but for now, i feel like I'm in a different place.
I just replaced the first set of worn rear brakes i ever had to replace, because i never used them enough to wear them out on any street bike. I recently put on a pair of Q2's and I know by the way i'm working the front tire, that it will wear with the back, instead of two back for one front. It's a significant departure from not expecting anything from the front tire other than a little straight-up braking and leaning with neutral throttle shifting weight more to the rear.
These are honest appraisals and maybe not for everyone, but I believe it's our responsibility to each other to share our perspectives in the name of learning. You can believe me when I tell you that if I discover fault with anything, I'll be on here reporting it so someone else doesn't learn the hard way, that is, if I'm able to.
12-04-2009, 10:19 AM
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yeah, that may be. I set mine (front and rear) by backing it off completely, then compressing until I can detect rebound or resistance to return. then I increase the rebound by a click or two to adjust for warmed fork/shock oil. Then ride for a while, stop and see if there is still some rebound. Rebound delay is detectable but not much.
Your description of rebound settings is as I thought - not near enough. The standard method is to start from the full-stiff position (close it until the needle lightly touches the seat, then back off and record the value. To start off, try a setting that rebounds in about 1 second (front and rear). I think this will be a lot slower than what you have now. If you feel like the back jacks up on the brakes, slow the rear down some more. You don't want it to pack down, but you want to avoid rapid changes in chassis attitude. In the front it should come up slowly when you release the brakes. Try it and adjust from there. Notes about settings and impressions will help you keep track of where you are, and where you've been.
12-04-2009, 02:23 PM
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Nath,
As I was out riding my bicycle at lunch, I was thinking about your descriptions and came up with a descriptive scenario for you.
You described how you compress the fork, then whack the throttle open to pull the front wheel up. I think this may be the same thing that unweights your front wheel on aggressive corner exits.
We know that F=ma? right? When your front end is compressed and you accelerate hard, the torque from the rear wheel lifts the front of the motorcycle. The springs in the fork add to this and accelerate the mass suspended on the forks upward. When the mass accelerates, you need a counter force to declerate it at the top of travel. The only mass availabe to pull the suspended mass and slow it down is the unsprung mass of the wheel, brake and rotor, which is very light compared to the rest of the bike. So the momentum of the suspended mass takes it right to the top of the fork travel and pulls the front wheel up.
With more rebound damping in the front, you can prevent the fork springs from aiding this upward acceleration. The prevention of these rapid chassis accelerations is the primary function of your low speed damping. You can make major improvements to your bike handling with it. This is especially important for someone who rides as aggressively as you do.
As I was out riding my bicycle at lunch, I was thinking about your descriptions and came up with a descriptive scenario for you.
You described how you compress the fork, then whack the throttle open to pull the front wheel up. I think this may be the same thing that unweights your front wheel on aggressive corner exits.
We know that F=ma? right? When your front end is compressed and you accelerate hard, the torque from the rear wheel lifts the front of the motorcycle. The springs in the fork add to this and accelerate the mass suspended on the forks upward. When the mass accelerates, you need a counter force to declerate it at the top of travel. The only mass availabe to pull the suspended mass and slow it down is the unsprung mass of the wheel, brake and rotor, which is very light compared to the rest of the bike. So the momentum of the suspended mass takes it right to the top of the fork travel and pulls the front wheel up.
With more rebound damping in the front, you can prevent the fork springs from aiding this upward acceleration. The prevention of these rapid chassis accelerations is the primary function of your low speed damping. You can make major improvements to your bike handling with it. This is especially important for someone who rides as aggressively as you do.
12-04-2009, 05:10 PM
#19
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RCVTR
The wheelie example is how I bring the front wheel up and used only to illustrate what happened when I used the release brake as you turn in and then add neutral throttle method. But I believe you are right, having 1 sec rebound may have been just enough to have prevented the roll on to neutral throttle from unweighting the front and could likely have prevented losing the front. Hey I just learned something!
My rebound setting are nowhere near the 1 sec rebound you suggest. I chose light rebound so the suspension would react quickly given that I ride rural and some farm roads, some of which are bumpy. If the rebound is too slow on a rough road, the springs will not be able to react quickly enough. Repetitive bumps allows little to no recovery time. That's my rationale and maybe an incorrect assumption.
Possibly. that's why i like using the brakes when adding throttle because in effect it simulates rebound by holding compression similar to the 1 sec you use. Beyond this point, however, using the brakes during roll on assists in weighting the front tire to increase the contact patch, and this is where the two methods disengage.
Interesting. I appreciate the insights.
The wheelie example is how I bring the front wheel up and used only to illustrate what happened when I used the release brake as you turn in and then add neutral throttle method. But I believe you are right, having 1 sec rebound may have been just enough to have prevented the roll on to neutral throttle from unweighting the front and could likely have prevented losing the front. Hey I just learned something!
My rebound setting are nowhere near the 1 sec rebound you suggest. I chose light rebound so the suspension would react quickly given that I ride rural and some farm roads, some of which are bumpy. If the rebound is too slow on a rough road, the springs will not be able to react quickly enough. Repetitive bumps allows little to no recovery time. That's my rationale and maybe an incorrect assumption.
Possibly. that's why i like using the brakes when adding throttle because in effect it simulates rebound by holding compression similar to the 1 sec you use. Beyond this point, however, using the brakes during roll on assists in weighting the front tire to increase the contact patch, and this is where the two methods disengage.
Interesting. I appreciate the insights.
12-04-2009, 06:20 PM
#20
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rcvtr, any other books besides trevitts you might recommend for suspension? (despite being $ and old school, i like professional press alot, compared to alot of the crap i find on the inter-web. it's not ALL crap, but there's definitely alot of crap to sift through.)
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/suspension.htm
12-04-2009, 11:08 PM
#21
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I've read both versions.. Still have um some place in the garage I'm sure. Twist of the Wrist (TotW) I was home work.. purchased after spending the day at Sears Point riding a GPZ550 at the Superbike school Mr Code organized and ran from that track in the mid 80's. Someone gave me TotW II for xmas one year,,, and I devoured that book as well in hours. Try this, read the book, then go ride for two or three days (or a track day) ,, then read it again.
12-06-2009, 07:37 AM
#22
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totw fans can enter contest to win a set of Dunlop Q2's by figuring out 10 fundamental riding skills that are irreplaceable for any rider interested in gaining confidence with traction. One is good throttle control. other nine?
12-08-2009, 04:35 PM
#23
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I found a lot of it to be very good, but some of it did not make sense to me. After reading it, I then read a book by Nick Ienatsch (or something like that - sorry Nick) which focusses on street riding instead of track riding like Codes book. It was a very good read, and it explained some of Codes stuff to me that I didn't follow before. It is called "Street Riding Techniques" I think.
Highly recommended.
Highly recommended.
12-08-2009, 06:38 PM
#24
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MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
I found a lot of it to be very good, but some of it did not make sense to me. After reading it, I then read a book by Nick Ienatsch (or something like that - sorry Nick) which focusses on street riding instead of track riding like Codes book. It was a very good read, and it explained some of Codes stuff to me that I didn't follow before. It is called "Street Riding Techniques" I think.
Highly recommended.
Highly recommended.
http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/med...side_line2.htm
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=20734
12-08-2009, 08:29 PM
#25
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 293
rcvtr, hey i grabbed sportbike suspension techniques @ bn over the weekend...a little disappointing, though it is a great foundation for theory, i was expecting a more technical, borderline service manual with hefty dose of theory, type of book... :-\ oh well.
anyways, if you haven't read totw2, you should give it a quick look over, im sure you'll learn something (to those who havent)
anyways, if you haven't read totw2, you should give it a quick look over, im sure you'll learn something (to those who havent)
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