TMBmotorsports forkbrace????
[QUOTE=Tweety;209305]
Actually there is one more thing that might be a good idea to try... I had the shuddering problem... and after trying all to no avail I found it was a spot on my rotors where my hot pads had changed the surface after being really hot and cooling down rapidly...
That was solved by going over the surface of those rotors with a very fine sandpaper... All of the surface... So since then when I come across that problem my first attempt before doing the whole warped disc thingie is to go over the surface on the discs and pads and scrub it real good... and it actually solves a surprising amount of those problems...
BrakeTech has (or had) a good article about this on their website. they claim that warped rotors are actually rare. Uneven buildup of brake pad material causes eneven heating of the rotors. Their idea is that stopping with hot brakes and holding the brakes on causes a buildup where the pad sits still and bakes to the hot rotor.
In terms of fork tubes, the stiffness of a tube of a given wall thickness and material increases with the diameter squared. So doubling the diameter results in 4 times the stiffenss. Inverted forks put the large diameter in the triple clamp where the bending moment (leverage) is highest, resulting in a much higher stiffness, even though it is thin walled aluminum in the outer tubes. VTR forks have 41mm stanchions, CBR F4i, etc. forks have 43mm stanchions, CBR900RR forks are 45mm. This is why the VTR forks (and other older forks) in particular benefit so much from using a fork brace.
Actually there is one more thing that might be a good idea to try... I had the shuddering problem... and after trying all to no avail I found it was a spot on my rotors where my hot pads had changed the surface after being really hot and cooling down rapidly...
That was solved by going over the surface of those rotors with a very fine sandpaper... All of the surface... So since then when I come across that problem my first attempt before doing the whole warped disc thingie is to go over the surface on the discs and pads and scrub it real good... and it actually solves a surprising amount of those problems...
In terms of fork tubes, the stiffness of a tube of a given wall thickness and material increases with the diameter squared. So doubling the diameter results in 4 times the stiffenss. Inverted forks put the large diameter in the triple clamp where the bending moment (leverage) is highest, resulting in a much higher stiffness, even though it is thin walled aluminum in the outer tubes. VTR forks have 41mm stanchions, CBR F4i, etc. forks have 43mm stanchions, CBR900RR forks are 45mm. This is why the VTR forks (and other older forks) in particular benefit so much from using a fork brace.
[quote=RCVTR;209308]
BrakeTech has (or had) a good article about this on their website. they claim that warped rotors are actually rare. Uneven buildup of brake pad material causes eneven heating of the rotors. Their idea is that stopping with hot brakes and holding the brakes on causes a buildup where the pad sits still and bakes to the hot rotor.
In terms of fork tubes, the stiffness of a tube of a given wall thickness and material increases with the diameter squared. So doubling the diameter results in 4 times the stiffenss. Inverted forks put the large diameter in the triple clamp where the bending moment (leverage) is highest, resulting in a much higher stiffness, even though it is thin walled aluminum in the outer tubes. VTR forks have 41mm stanchions, CBR F4i, etc. forks have 43mm stanchions, CBR900RR forks are 45mm. This is why the VTR forks (and other older forks) in particular benefit so much from using a fork brace.
Heh... you did the techie bit and I did the fluff part...
I have only seen warped rotors on one bike that wasn't caused by stupidly forgetting the disc lock... And that was the result of one pad having the channels blocked and overheating, leaving the disc a nice swirly colors blue...
BrakeTech has (or had) a good article about this on their website. they claim that warped rotors are actually rare. Uneven buildup of brake pad material causes eneven heating of the rotors. Their idea is that stopping with hot brakes and holding the brakes on causes a buildup where the pad sits still and bakes to the hot rotor.
In terms of fork tubes, the stiffness of a tube of a given wall thickness and material increases with the diameter squared. So doubling the diameter results in 4 times the stiffenss. Inverted forks put the large diameter in the triple clamp where the bending moment (leverage) is highest, resulting in a much higher stiffness, even though it is thin walled aluminum in the outer tubes. VTR forks have 41mm stanchions, CBR F4i, etc. forks have 43mm stanchions, CBR900RR forks are 45mm. This is why the VTR forks (and other older forks) in particular benefit so much from using a fork brace.
I have only seen warped rotors on one bike that wasn't caused by stupidly forgetting the disc lock... And that was the result of one pad having the channels blocked and overheating, leaving the disc a nice swirly colors blue...
[QUOTE=Tweety;209305]
Actually there is one more thing that might be a good idea to try... I had the shuddering problem... and after trying all to no avail I found it was a spot on my rotors where my hot pads had changed the surface after being really hot and cooling down rapidly...
That was solved by going over the surface of those rotors with a very fine sandpaper... All of the surface... So since then when I come across that problem my first attempt before doing the whole warped disc thingie is to go over the surface on the discs and pads and scrub it real good... and it actually solves a surprising amount of those problems...
you may have something here tweety. several years ago i changed organic pads and replaced them with ceramic pads on my van within a short time the brakes began to shudder. Maybe it's a good idea to resurface/sand the rotor when changing pad types. I'll try it and see what happens.
thanks, nathan
Actually there is one more thing that might be a good idea to try... I had the shuddering problem... and after trying all to no avail I found it was a spot on my rotors where my hot pads had changed the surface after being really hot and cooling down rapidly...
That was solved by going over the surface of those rotors with a very fine sandpaper... All of the surface... So since then when I come across that problem my first attempt before doing the whole warped disc thingie is to go over the surface on the discs and pads and scrub it real good... and it actually solves a surprising amount of those problems...
thanks, nathan
I mentioned earlier about running this thru FEA to verify design intentions. I played around a little today at work to see what a brace would do in a mock environment.
The brace does work depending on the load direction being applied.
I ran my setup thru a frequency test to see the displacement values on the assembly with and without a brace added. As you can se in the right panel, it does help with displacement. These tests could of been conducted in a force application rather than frequency to get a better idea of the effects. But using a frequency I'm able to get a off the cuff idea of it it does anything or not. In short it helps in rigidity but to what extent...I wouldn't know without know all the parameters of the assembly (dimensions, materials, load values, etc). In this test the brace helps by roughly 9 inches of displacement given the conditions I applied to this FEA test. Obviously these results are exagerated as I do not know the dimensions and everything but it does show it helps with rigidity. To get a good idea of actual performance of the brace it would need to be run under multiple FEA runs and under various loads and directions.
See attachments...
The brace does work depending on the load direction being applied.
I ran my setup thru a frequency test to see the displacement values on the assembly with and without a brace added. As you can se in the right panel, it does help with displacement. These tests could of been conducted in a force application rather than frequency to get a better idea of the effects. But using a frequency I'm able to get a off the cuff idea of it it does anything or not. In short it helps in rigidity but to what extent...I wouldn't know without know all the parameters of the assembly (dimensions, materials, load values, etc). In this test the brace helps by roughly 9 inches of displacement given the conditions I applied to this FEA test. Obviously these results are exagerated as I do not know the dimensions and everything but it does show it helps with rigidity. To get a good idea of actual performance of the brace it would need to be run under multiple FEA runs and under various loads and directions.
See attachments...
Last edited by haknslash; Apr 8, 2009 at 10:04 AM.
I was wondering if we could get a general idea of the timescale involved. while I'd love to use this fork brace, I want to get one before I do any trackdays this year. but if they'll be a while in coming, I might just buy a coerce FB. I know these things take time, and its not an impatience issue. just trying to plan my season. holler back
I was wondering if we could get a general idea of the timescale involved. while I'd love to use this fork brace, I want to get one before I do any trackdays this year. but if they'll be a while in coming, I might just buy a coerce FB. I know these things take time, and its not an impatience issue. just trying to plan my season. holler back
swordfish, you might be better off doin your trackdays w/o the fork brace if it's not ready and then you'll be able to eval the effects for yourself. I believe others who say that it is an improvement, and I will get one myself. But the reality is that the rider is the primary variable here, and the forkbrace is a superficial tweak comparatively. I've got plenty of experience at full lean with the hawk under all road conditions during the last 8 or 9 years, and the brace never crossed my mind til I read about it here.
nathan
it always messes me up looking at your posts cause you throw in the "nathan" at the end, and my name is nathan, so I always have that double-take moment. anyway, thats good advise, but I've done 2 trackdays at this track before with the hawk "as is". so I'll be able to make a decent comparison. and having any additional direction change ability will be obvious cause this track is all about the corners. anyway, 3 weeks is no prob. I just hope I have the bike out of storage in 3 weeks. friggin winter won't give up.
Yeah, if you've been knee draggin you should be able to feel the diff, especially if the track surface is irregular on turns and if there are quick transitions; although it might be optimal to run the track a few times and then slap the brace on and run a few more. Do you have a steering stabilizer? or suspension mods.....i don't remember seeing anything on your signature.
thanks, another nathan
when you see nathan, do you sometimes wonder if you are reading your own post and don't understand why you would ever write such things? LOL. Should I sign, " another nathan" so there is no confusion.
Yeah, if you've been knee draggin you should be able to feel the diff, especially if the track surface is irregular on turns and if there are quick transitions; although it might be optimal to run the track a few times and then slap the brace on and run a few more. Do you have a steering stabilizer? or suspension mods.....i don't remember seeing anything on your signature.
thanks, another nathan
Yeah, if you've been knee draggin you should be able to feel the diff, especially if the track surface is irregular on turns and if there are quick transitions; although it might be optimal to run the track a few times and then slap the brace on and run a few more. Do you have a steering stabilizer? or suspension mods.....i don't remember seeing anything on your signature.
thanks, another nathan
I had the same shuddering problem after I did the gixxer 1k caliper and mc swap. I bought mikstr`s SRC brace and that solved my shuddering problem plus made the front end feel more solid. The brakes,forkbrace,Greg`s fork mods,and a Penske shock have transformed my hawk from a mushy,flexing, sometimes scary handling bike to a very planted and confidence inspiring bike.
Shuddering problem still: so far I sanded the rotors/brakes as suggested by tweety, re-tightened the steering head to the max-ah oh!, and it's still shuddering. next i'm going to losen up the whole front end and push it up and down to see if i can get it freed up as per Brake Tech site that RC suggested.
I want a forkbrace from truck, but need to get this resolved first. Like a dumbshit I threw away the OEM pads that were smooth as silk when I installed the Galpher lines and pads.
thanks, Nathan
Shuddering problem still: so far I sanded the rotors/brakes as suggested by tweety, re-tightened the steering head to the max-ah oh!, and it's still shuddering. next i'm going to losen up the whole front end and push it up and down to see if i can get it freed up as per Brake Tech site that RC suggested.
I want a forkbrace from truck, but need to get this resolved first. Like a dumbshit I threw away the OEM pads that were smooth as silk when I installed the Galpher lines and pads.
thanks, Nathan





