General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

spark plug removal

Old 02-05-2009, 08:18 AM
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spark plug removal

Hey All,
A quick question, I did some work on the bike (removed pair system, installed K&N air filter, and installed de-baffled pipes) and yesterday re-installed the tank but the bike had trouble starting/running. Twice it actually ran for 4-8 seconds before dying and then, with continued cranking it wouldn't start. I realize there are several possible factors and tomorrow off comes the tank again so I can double check my work but because it ran (albeit briefly) I believe it's getting gas and spark. But I still want to confirm spark, and remove and replace the spark plugs while I'm at it which leads me to my question. I have a Haynes manual and feel confident in my ability to do this, however I don't have the OEM tool kit, does any one know a suitable replacement socket/tool or do I have to buy a OEM tool or kit to remove the spark plugs?
I'm working under the assumption that the air/fuel mixture is off and am hoping that a look at the plugs can confirm this and maybe even tell me if it is too rich or lean but of course I'd welcome any suggestions from the forum. I have K&N Stage One Jet kit that, if my diagnosis is right, I hope will solve this but I'm nervous that the bike won't run at all. I was ready for the possibility of the motor running rougher but was surprised that it wouldn't run at all. I'd also considered the lack of back-pressure from the de-baffled pipes but while the motor needs back-pressure to run optimally it's shouldn't need it to run at all... right? Anyways, any thoughts on the whole dilemma and suggestions on the correct tool to pull the plugs would be greatly appreciated. I'm posting this, then going to work for the day but will be back online tonight. Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-05-2009, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Denverhawk View Post
Hey All,
A quick question, I did some work on the bike (removed pair system, installed K&N air filter, and installed de-baffled pipes) and yesterday re-installed the tank but the bike had trouble starting/running. Twice it actually ran for 4-8 seconds before dying and then, with continued cranking it wouldn't start. I realize there are several possible factors and tomorrow off comes the tank again so I can double check my work but because it ran (albeit briefly) I believe it's getting gas and spark. But I still want to confirm spark, and remove and replace the spark plugs while I'm at it which leads me to my question. I have a Haynes manual and feel confident in my ability to do this, however I don't have the OEM tool kit, does any one know a suitable replacement socket/tool or do I have to buy a OEM tool or kit to remove the spark plugs?
I'm working under the assumption that the air/fuel mixture is off and am hoping that a look at the plugs can confirm this and maybe even tell me if it is too rich or lean but of course I'd welcome any suggestions from the forum. I have K&N Stage One Jet kit that, if my diagnosis is right, I hope will solve this but I'm nervous that the bike won't run at all. I was ready for the possibility of the motor running rougher but was surprised that it wouldn't run at all. I'd also considered the lack of back-pressure from the de-baffled pipes but while the motor needs back-pressure to run optimally it's shouldn't need it to run at all... right? Anyways, any thoughts on the whole dilemma and suggestions on the correct tool to pull the plugs would be greatly appreciated. I'm posting this, then going to work for the day but will be back online tonight. Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you got the vac hose on the wrong nipple on the fuel petcock when you put the tank back on...where do you have the tubes connected to the petcock under the tank?
RC

Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 02-05-2009 at 08:48 AM. Reason: spell
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:35 AM
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Denverhawk, are you the guy with the burnt orange hawk?
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:14 PM
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A deep 18mm socket will work on the plugs.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RK1 View Post
A deep 18mm socket will work on the plugs.
+1, just put a piece of rubber in the socket to grip the plug and pull it right out
RC
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FL02SupaHawk996 View Post
+1, just put a piece of rubber in the socket to grip the plug and pull it right out
RC

That's a great idea. I've been lifting them out with a pen magnet which works also.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:31 PM
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be aware though some 18 mm deep sockets have too big of an outside diameter and will jam in the valve cover, and then take you half an hour to pry loose... at least mine was so either find a thin walled socket or you might have to sand it down. Or maybe I am the only one with this issue in which case just ignore...also I agree it sounds like the air line to the petcock is wrong.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cornandp View Post
be aware though some 18 mm deep sockets have too big of an outside diameter and will jam in the valve cover, and then take you half an hour to pry loose... at least mine was so either find a thin walled socket or you might have to sand it down. Or maybe I am the only one with this issue in which case just ignore...also I agree it sounds like the air line to the petcock is wrong.
a quality 18mm socket will be too large. a cheap socket set will be thinner and may work. i opted to just buy the OEM ( i think it was $10 ). i imagine you could run one on the grinder but i'm not that poor.

tim
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:53 PM
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Snap-on, Matco, Mac all make 18mm Spark Plug sockets. A cheaper socket will actually have a larger outside diameter, since they use cheaper steel with less hardness they make the walls thicker.

I changed my plugs this morning and made the same mistake, but found it quickly. The small vacuum hose goes on the SIDE port of the fuel valve under left rear of tank.
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:15 PM
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double check the vacuum lines.make sure they are connected to the right places.sounds like you have the petcock vacuum crossed with another hose.
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Old 02-05-2009, 03:25 PM
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and when you remove the PAIR sys there is a vacuum hose or nipple I think you have to cap/plug, and seal the hole in the bottom of the airbox from the PAIR hose,plus flip the check valves in each valve cover and plug thehose nipples. Go to greg's new site for instruction...
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:09 PM
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I just use some old cheap Honda tool kit sparkplug wrench that is deep and thin. I forget which bike it came from, but I been using it for years.
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:52 PM
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Wow, Thanks for all the help! I'm heading out to the garage later this eavening to double check the placement of the vacume hose. it would be great if it was that simple. The plugs need to be changed either way and I need to do it myself so thanks to all for the suggestions I'll try my cheap socket set and go from there. I'm impressed with and gratefull to all the forum members, I've never participated in a forum before and now wished I had years ago! You guys rule.
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:57 PM
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I can say 99% for sure that you hooked the hoses up wrong. I had the EXACT same thing happen first time I took off my tank.
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:58 PM
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Only one way to find out...
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Old 02-05-2009, 05:00 PM
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this is what it should look like


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front looking back

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from the back
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Old 02-05-2009, 05:03 PM
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If you don't have a manual, there's one in the knowledge base section of the forum.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:11 AM
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... Success! It was a vacum line misplacement issue! Thanks to all!
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Denverhawk View Post
... Success! It was a vacum line misplacement issue! Thanks to all!
U are welcome
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Denverhawk View Post
... Success! It was a vacum line misplacement issue! Thanks to all!
Ha! Congrats, Denver. That's almost always what it is! (been there done that)
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