SnappleKat

I've been riding ever since I could drive, but I've driven the old school touring bikes with giant motors that way 1k lbs. I've always wanted a sports bike but until I could afford my own insurance it was a no go. Until now that is, I just picked up a 98' Superhawk that was dropped at what looks like low speeds. It's got 60k miles on it with a rebuilt carb, other than that it's all stock and looks like it was maintained decently (except for the drop of course). I've posted pictures and from what I gathered looking through the forums so far is that I definitely need to replace my R/R with a MOSFET R/R and replace the CCT's. I can work on any touring bike you throw at me. harley, victory, indian...etc, but the japanese street bikes are a realm unknown. Here's the pictures of the damage and some of the worn looking stuff. At some point the bike will be orange as Cali drivers are complete idiots and play their music too loud to hear the loudest of pipes. Other than that, I've no clue what to work on first. Here's the pictures

All and all, I don't think it was a bad buy for 1,200 bucks.

CruxGNZ

Nice score Snapple! Sounds like you did your research.

Stuff to work on first, is exactly what you mention. CCT's and R/R. If you decide to leave the CCT's stock, the chances that the piston will get very intimate with the valves are pretty good sometime in the future. Not saying it WILL happen, but changing out the CCT's to MCCT's (Manual Cam Chain Tensioner) will ensure that this will never happen. It's good insurance.
If you don't change the R/R to a MOSFET type, you could fry the dash, the battery and/or start melting wiring connectors. Again, not saying this WILL happen, but the odds are it will.

As for the damage, it doesn't look bad at all! If those scratches aren't deep, then take the engine cover off and scuff it up and repaint it. The plastic doesn't look like it has any cracks. The cheap way of making it look nice, would be to just touch up the scratches with the correct color paint. But, if it were mine, I would take the plastics off, sand down the scratches, apply flexible filler, sand, primer and then paint. It's up to you. Depends on what you feel comfortable doing and what your budget dictates.

Good luck man. Keep us updated on your progress. Any questions, just search first, but if the answers are still not clear, feel free to post.

Oh, and maybe flush out that brake fluid and replace it with new. In the pictures it looks a little dark.

SnappleKat

This picture is what I want the rear of the bike to look like. I want the other type of plastics on the front (the big one..haha i have no clue what they're called i just know i had a toy that looked just like this when i was little) but I want the plastics on the front to be black. not sure if i can use the same pipes or not.


I just noticed that it either idles at 2k rpm's or it won't idle at all. Not quite sure what's happening there.

SnappleKat

So, i just took the plastics off for the first time. Looks like the R/R has already been replaced, if that's been done then there's a fair chance that the CCT's have been swapped out as well.

There's a gas smell in my oil, I'm thinking I have a bad carb float somewhere or a needle valve. I knew it needed a carb sync but definitely wasn't expecting this haha. Time to burn that midnight oil....no puns intended.

CruxGNZ

It is very easy to check if the CCT's were replaced with manual ones. Do a search for a picture of manual CCT's and compare what you have. Unfortunately, I couldn't tell what you have in the pictures you posted.

As for the R/R, just because it's finned doesn't mean it is a MOSFET type. What is the part number on the R/R? If it starts with "SH", then it is a crappy shunt based unit. If the part number starts with "FH", then you have a MOSFET R/R.

kenmoore

Do the PAIR mod, you can search it on here.

Also the Bernie Morgan Air filter mod.

Check your TPS

Makes the bike smoother.

To make it turn in better do the 6mm shock shim.

All things you can find on here.

Good luck and welcome!

NZSpokes

Float valves failing are common. Easy fix.

SnappleKat

I'm a bit confused at this point. Checked where the CCT's should be and there's nothing there, just a hole. If anyone could tell me what's going on, that would be great. haha

NZSpokes

I can see it in your top photo....

CruxGNZ

Check that same spot on the other side of the head. You'll see it.

Here, check out this MCCT installation thread. It will help you out with A LOT of pictures. Click here.

CrankenFine

You're right...and it's the OEM style.

SnappleKat

Thanks for the posts guys! I'm about to start taking the bike apart. I haven't bought the parts yet but I need to do some carb work and tighten the chain anyways. it's got way too much play.

SnappleKat

My only concern is that it's been running with the OEM for so long that once I tear it all apart, other problems might develop. This is my daily driver so hopefully it's not in pitiful shape.

SnappleKat

Another question. I researched this and found mixed answer as to the rattling noise on the bike. It doesn't rattle when it idles (it only dies...alot ._. dirty carb). The only time it rattles is when I'm accelerating from a stopped position and it probably rattles on the freeway but other noises just drown it out. I was leaning towards the CCT's but since it doesn't happen all the time...I'm not sure. Any suggestions?

hawxter996

could be running lean and detonating.
you said carbs need work?

SnappleKat

Indeed they do. I can't work on it for another 3 weeks tho. I don't have the tools to resync the carb after cleaning it ._. I thought it was running a bit rich to be honest tho.

CruxGNZ

You don't need anything expensive to snyc your carbs. Many people, incuding myself, have used the "Two Bottle Method" for syncing the carbs. Works fantastic. And, if your carbs are really off (which sounds like yours very well might be), the water or oil has no chance of getting sucked into the engine. Did I mention how much this two bottle method costs? Usually less than ten bucks. For me, less than two dollars, because I already had the plastic bottles in the recycling bin. Search for the two bottle method. It's very cheap, easy to make, and works quite well.

What you see below, is what I have used to sync the carbs on my bike and another forum member's bike with success.

kenmoore

Could be carb slides rattling!

Could go on but could be a myriad of things causing the rattle.

Get those manual CCTs in pronto.

Could be valves, check those when you do fit the new ccts!

Not hard to do and great write up on how to do it right here.

Good luck mate.

SnappleKat

What's the best CCT to get? in terms of longevity. I'm not very nice to my vehicles. Case in point. On my Victory, I had to replace my rear tire 3x within 10k miles. I had to replace my rotors and break pads 5x within 5k miles. I go fast and break hard. That's alot of strain on the motor, and other equipment of the bike. What's the most durable?