shorter wheel base
#1
shorter wheel base
hi guys im about to change my chain/sprockets and im looking for a shorter wheelbase without reducing the already small gear ratio ..Anyone try a 17 front or can we just remove a link with stock sprocket ?
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
Never heard of anyone doing 17 front... Not sure that you even have the room for larger sprocket in the front, but why would you want to do that? You will get effectively higher top end speed and loose usable torque at lower RPM where you really need it.
As for the link removal, wouldn't work, it will get too short, the 102 link standard is as short as you can get it.
Best way to achieve shorter wheel base is to do a front swap to one of the options like CBR1000RR front end, shorter and lighter as well.
As for the link removal, wouldn't work, it will get too short, the 102 link standard is as short as you can get it.
Best way to achieve shorter wheel base is to do a front swap to one of the options like CBR1000RR front end, shorter and lighter as well.
#3
The only way you can go shorter is to change the gear ratio to 16/43 this will allow you to run the 102 link chain with the adjusters run all the way in. This is the perfect gearing IMO picks up the lower end a bit and makes 6 gear top out better. Not to mention the slightly (remember we are talking millimeters) gives slightly better turn in and loves to pull the front wheel up.
There is no way a 100 link chain would fit with stock gearing.
There is no way a 100 link chain would fit with stock gearing.
#4
I thought about doing a 17 front to keep the front wheel down with passengers and to lower highway RPM's a tad. The Hawk has enough torque that while yes it would feel sluggish from stock it still wouldn't have any less power on the highway than my YZF600 would at speed in 6th. I looked though and I don't think anyone even makes a countershaft sproket for the hawk that big.. Also I decided that I could keep the front end down just fine with my right hand and go 15t on the front and have more fun by myself
#5
I run a 17 for long trips, it knocks the rpm down about 250-300 rpm at 70mph. I put it on for a trip to the Barber Museum and left it on for a couple of years. When you go from the 17 back to a 16 you can barely tell the difference, but go from the 17 to 15 and you will be looking for a 7th gear. It's barely noticeable in 1st gear, but allows you to run the lower gears out a little longer.
#6
It's a far better idea to stick a spacer on the rear shock... It raises the rear, which also effectively reduces wheel base, and done right, to reasonable levels, improves handling in many ways, not just the shorter wheel base... Without the downsides of the gearing change... Yeah, granted, for special occasions like long haul, it has positive effects... But in general, I'd say it's a downside mostly...
#8
Just make one from stacked fender washers. Cut one side open to save pulling the shock top bolt fully out. Might cost $2 at the local hardware store plus an hour of your time. 5 to 6mm max height.
Last edited by CrankenFine; 12-22-2013 at 10:01 AM.
#9
My buddy just had them laying around in the garage, I wouldn't know where to find it
#10
I ran a compact drivetrain on my cbr900rr. Managed to get the same ratio with smaller sprockets and less chain for less unsprung weight.
Gearing on the way! Compact Drivetrain!!
James
Gearing on the way! Compact Drivetrain!!
James
#11
#12
thks guys
btw i found that...
Honda 6mm Rear Shock Shim Spacer VTR 1000 Firestorm CBR 1100 XX Blackbird New | eBay
btw i found that...
Honda 6mm Rear Shock Shim Spacer VTR 1000 Firestorm CBR 1100 XX Blackbird New | eBay
#13
gab, most hardware stores stock Body Shims in their Hillman or Crown fastener drawers. They come in several thicknesses and slot dimensions (3/8" work perfect)are pre-slotted and exactly the right width and length for the SH fitting. They are only $1.25 ea.! I found two that combined to make a 5.89mm thickness. Lift the rear of the tank , loosen the shock upper nut, jack up the bike slightly via the slip them in place between the cross member and the upper mount, torque it, and you're good to go.
#14
mad skill collector
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hayward, San Francisco bay area: California
Posts: 77
gab,
I run a 17F-16F/43R for some time now-it is slightly taller than stock but not much. I like it because its just so easy to change ratio's now, Slip off the 17, and replace with the 16 in the tank bag. - I have yet to see any drawback to this setup- weight is all I can come up with chain lasts longer just keep tension on the taught side or you'll risk chain whacking the cover..... Shim worked wonders as well- and your asking because of performance needs not rpm/economy I just thought I'd chime in about my experiance is all..
I run a 17F-16F/43R for some time now-it is slightly taller than stock but not much. I like it because its just so easy to change ratio's now, Slip off the 17, and replace with the 16 in the tank bag. - I have yet to see any drawback to this setup- weight is all I can come up with chain lasts longer just keep tension on the taught side or you'll risk chain whacking the cover..... Shim worked wonders as well- and your asking because of performance needs not rpm/economy I just thought I'd chime in about my experiance is all..
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