General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

Noobalicious SH owner

Old May 6, 2013 | 07:37 AM
  #1  
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Noobalicious SH owner

Greetings all.

New SH owner here, just wanted to introduce myself. Excited to find this forum. Been reading a lot the past few days - much to my wife's displeasure. Lots of good info here and thanks to all who posted it.

My bike has 23K. AFAIK - CCT not done. Stock everything else (except some super-ricey grips and tank pad the PO put on). This old bird has been well kept and is clean. Was dropped in a moving truck, and busted the front signal, and LH mirror off. Bent shifter. One crack in fairing, and a little sun fading on the tail, and front fender. Nasty-looking front end of the engine (just super dirty case and pipes, as well as corroded oil cooler lines). Couple of scratches on the stock cans, but general good condition.

Running condition - can do so, but had dead battery. All I have been able to do is jump it off with my DR650 battery and run it with the choke out. It ran well with the choke out. No valve noise. Didn't seem to want to run with the choke in. Clutch fluid res was dry (or very close). Clean oil (PO said was just changed), Clean coolant. NASTY brake fluid. Seems to shift fine, but I didn't take it on a long ride. Needs tires badly.

I would like to return this SH to it's former, full-stock glory. IMHO, it's best to get the thing running well in stock form before I tune. Plus honestly, I am coming from a DR650, so I think the stock version of this bike will be plenty enough to scare the poo out of me.

I always wanted one of these guys back in the 90's when I was in college but could not afford anything this fancy (hence my 600 Katana, that was one ugly bike). I am really psyched to be able to buy one now. I look forward to getting it back into shape using this forum.

Anyway, I am looking and reading a lot here about the bike... but since it is new, I don't know what I don't know.

Can you guys point me to any particular stickies, posts, etc. that would be useful in getting this stock SH back into fighting shape?

TIA for any info.
Old May 6, 2013 | 07:39 AM
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P.S. I know the "search and you shall receive rule", and believe me I have been using it. I just thought some of the more experienced folk might point out some things I do not know to look for.
Old May 6, 2013 | 08:29 AM
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Welcome. We really do not have a thread or sticky the covers "return my used non maintained bike back to stock"

But there are lots of threads on specific things done to the SH.
This forum is not big on "How To tech " articles.

Sounds like yours needs to be gone through end to end.
Service manual link
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-manual-11365/
Look in the knowledge base Knowledge Base - SuperHawk Forum for a host of threads that relate to common items for this bike.

Flush, fill, bleed clutch and brakes, check pads, clean and lube caliper slider pins.

Flush, fill, bleed air from cooling system.

Replace CCT's with new ones, or with aftermarket MCCT's

Remove carbs, clean, inspect, ID if any jetting has been done, tune

Check the R/R plug for evidence of heat related fault.. consider replacing R/R with an OEM NEW finned later model, or the better way.. a Mofset R/R from a R1/R6 https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
Old May 6, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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Running with choke out but not in suggests to me that pilot jets are clogged, so the carbs could probably use a cleaning. Often with pilots it's easier to just buy new ones for a few bucks than try to clean out the super small holes. If you're into tinkering, you can also make some small mods while you're in there as per 8541Hawk's carb setup thread. And while they're out you can set the TPS. (free upgrades to make it run smoother right there)

The only thing about keeping it stock is that the suspension leaves a little to be desired. One options to re-valve and re-spring the front end if you weigh more than 120 lbs, and get a rebuilt CBR f4i shock from Jamie to fix the rear.

8541Hawk's Carb Setup thread : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-set-up-24769/
Loot at tweety's MOSFET R/R how to thread : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
And you know about CCT's it sounds like: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/
TPS adjustment : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...n-sensor-9876/

If I were to get a new-to-me hawk those threads would be the first things I would do regardless (plus all the fluids and general maintenance like you have mentioned), then go from there. Second tier things are just what you would want to put into it... new headlight relay for brighter light or even HID retrofit...Front end swap...lightened flywheel... swingarm brace... shimmed rear... handlebar tassels... studded leather saddle bags... blah blah blah

Welcome!

Edit: looks like marquez beat me to a few of the links...
Old May 6, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 7moore7
Running with choke out but not in suggests to me that pilot jets are clogged, so the carbs could probably use a cleaning. Often with pilots it's easier to just buy new ones for a few bucks than try to clean out the super small holes. If you're into tinkering, you can also make some small mods while you're in there as per 8541Hawk's carb setup thread. And while they're out you can set the TPS. (free upgrades to make it run smoother right there)

The only thing about keeping it stock is that the suspension leaves a little to be desired. One options to re-valve and re-spring the front end if you weigh more than 120 lbs, and get a rebuilt CBR f4i shock from Jamie to fix the rear.

8541Hawk's Carb Setup thread : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-set-up-24769/
Loot at tweety's MOSFET R/R how to thread : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/
And you know about CCT's it sounds like: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...pe-ccts-11275/
TPS adjustment : https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...n-sensor-9876/

If I were to get a new-to-me hawk those threads would be the first things I would do regardless (plus all the fluids and general maintenance like you have mentioned), then go from there. Second tier things are just what you would want to put into it... new headlight relay for brighter light or even HID retrofit...Front end swap...lightened flywheel... swingarm brace... shimmed rear... handlebar tassels... studded leather saddle bags... blah blah blah

Welcome!

Edit: looks like marquez beat me to a few of the links...
Did someone say lightened flywheel :s pam:
Old May 6, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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You guys are already helping a brutha' out.

The manual = very useful.

The TPS post... didn't see this in my reading, good info.

Guess I will start with fluids and filters, then see how the carbs are doing. Then possible clean them out, and add #48 pilots and shims.
Old May 6, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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Also, I don't want to start a fluid war, but I see both you guys are prolific posters... What coolant and clutch fluid are you running in your bikes?
Old May 6, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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Clutch is always DOT4 brake fluid, more important that it's fresh and clean than getting super expensive racing stuff. Not that the nice stuff isn't good or anything.

I just use any coolant that is silicate free (safe for aluminum). Again, properly flushed and running cooling system is more important than expensive additives IMO. If I have water wetter on hand I'll throw that in.
Old May 6, 2013 | 11:15 AM
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Clutch and brake require at least DOT 4, but I run 5.1 in all my cars and bikes except the Shelby and GT which get ATE Super Blue which is DOT4.
Never mix DOT5 with anything else, and all rubber parts ,must be replaced and system flushed before switching to DOT 5 Silicone based fluids.. DOT 5 also comes with it an issue of advance corrosion possibilities as it is not hygroscopic and moisture buildup will fall out and be concentrated in one area of your system.

Minimum boiling points for these specifications are as follows (wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume):
Boiling point ranges [2]
Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) 190 °C (374 °F)
Coolant, if you're in a area that freezes, and want the "best" for summer heat.. you're stuck changing twice a season... or draining if you store during winter months.

I ride year round, so bike gets AMSOIL Dominator® Coolant Boost and water for the warmer months, then at least a month in advance of colder months, a flush and 50/50 silicate free propylene glycol coolant

Last edited by E.Marquez; May 6, 2013 at 11:19 AM.
Old May 6, 2013 | 05:53 PM
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Whee! Well, got the front fairing off. Pretty much as expected. But did discover a slow leak in the bottom of the left radiator. Not sure if it is the radiator or the piping at this point. I'll be cleaning the engine in the next few days to see where else we have leaks.
Old May 6, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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Welcome to the fray. Make sure you know where the leak is coming from as sometimes the pump impeller gets a seal leak.

Last edited by RWhisen; May 6, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
Old May 7, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidmarkart
But did discover a slow leak in the bottom of the left radiator.
I just solved the same problem on mine. Big surprise. The leak, very slow occasional drip - unknown to me at first - was actually coming from the top hose, running down the radiator, and appearing as a slow drip very near the lower rear hose. Maybe a tablespoon worth of coolant under the bike after a ride.

I was going nucking futz looking for that leak! Turned out to be a loose hose clamp causing it.
Old May 9, 2013 | 09:16 AM
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That is good to know. i have not been able to track the source yet... Just the drip. i will definitely check there when I start.
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