Newbie Question
#1
Newbie Question
I just picked up a 2000 SH with 18K miles and am worried about the CCT after spending most of the morning on this forum.
Is there any way to tell if the motor in my bike is the original, any way to look up my engine # and match to the VIN or at least determine if it also a 2000?
Is there any way to tell if the motor in my bike is the original, any way to look up my engine # and match to the VIN or at least determine if it also a 2000?
#2
Greetings
Look into addressing the CCT weakness before it bites! Also R/R - when they're sorted the bike is a reliable 'ol bus
Did you bike come with documentation of its history? Not sure what you get in US.
You could check the engine mounting bolts and look to see if there are signs of having been fiddled with or ask the previous owner.
Look into addressing the CCT weakness before it bites! Also R/R - when they're sorted the bike is a reliable 'ol bus
Did you bike come with documentation of its history? Not sure what you get in US.
You could check the engine mounting bolts and look to see if there are signs of having been fiddled with or ask the previous owner.
#3
If your bike is a 2000, it's 14 years old. CCT's have failed well younger and well below your bike, so best to play it safe.
What I'm saying is your comment (worried about CCT) and question (how do I tell what year my motor with 18K miles is) are not as related as one would hope...
What I'm saying is your comment (worried about CCT) and question (how do I tell what year my motor with 18K miles is) are not as related as one would hope...
#4
I saw some writing on the motor with a marker but I've read that's normal, no signs of the bike going down or motor removed. So now need to decide to just get new honda ones or the manual type. I'm 55 so don't ride it too hard, only paid $1800 for it so don't mind putting some $ into it, I'm nervous about changing it out myself though. I do hear a wuring noise from the motor, could be the chain is too tight? Its possible they were replaced previously, I guess first thing to do is see if I have the original Honda parts or aftermarket ones.
Last edited by gstreev; 08-20-2014 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Added Sentence
#5
Changing the CCT's isn't really that hard of a job... if you mess up the consequences can be pretty bad, but there are checks you can do to make sure the motor won't munch itself to pieces before you can turn it on. If they're Honda ones, it'll be hard to tell how new they are. Manual CCT's have to be adjusted, but usually only on install and after that you don't have to worry ever again.
If you have a little time to do the job and can post pics and questions, we can all walk you through it on here (assuming you need help beyond the step-by-step instructions).
If you have a little time to do the job and can post pics and questions, we can all walk you through it on here (assuming you need help beyond the step-by-step instructions).
#6
#9
FWIW, you are way more likely to have to hitch-hike home due to a failed RR than the CCT. (regulator rectifier).
Its pretty easy to replace while you are searching for CCT answers. I have had to push my hawk more than once with a failed RR. Now I keep a spare R1 unit at home just in case.
Its pretty easy to replace while you are searching for CCT answers. I have had to push my hawk more than once with a failed RR. Now I keep a spare R1 unit at home just in case.
#10
Dude, if you have any skills and some tools, you can do this CCT job. While you have it opened up, check you valve clearances since they probably were not checked at the recommended 15K miles. Valve adjustment requires removing the cams and is a but daunting but very satisfying to complete.
Buy or download the service manual. It's easy to follow. Enjoy the great bike.l
I've had a couple more birthdays than you and the Hawk is still my favorite bike.
Buy or download the service manual. It's easy to follow. Enjoy the great bike.l
I've had a couple more birthdays than you and the Hawk is still my favorite bike.
#11
#12
Thanks all, I just went through the entire general forum (166 pages!), it rained today so I was bored but I fell empowered now! Just picked up fork seals, left leaking a little, front tire: Sportmax Q2, and brake pads. Going to change oil & filter and flush the brake lines with Dot 4. Looking like the APE manual CCT's will be next. Since I am doing the fork seals I think I'm going to get the racetech springs, I have a question about the spring rate but I'll start another post since I don't want to Hijack my own thread
#14
The spring rate question may be answered on RT web site. Here is a calculator...
#15
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