Newbie alert.
03-12-2019, 01:08 PM
#32
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 66
Thanks mate. So anyway, its going in for RWC next week, Its a pretty good bike but i reckon it needs a rear disc and a front tyre which ive got coming, but also, the PO has one of those ebay smoked led tail lights. Its pretty crap, can barely see that its illuminated during the day. So anyway, with the plan to put the standard tail light back on, i was poking around in the bulb sockets back there with the multimeter to see if they still had voltage and inadvertantly shorted it out like the muppet i am.
So now the tail lights, the side radiator lights he installed, and the DTRL he installed no longer work. Brake, head and indicator lights still work.
None of the fuses in the fuse box are blown. The wiring under there is a sea of inline fuses, crimp splices, naked cut wire ends tucked away so you cant see them, modules and gizmos i dont need, the two main cables off the battery both have about a dozen ring terminals bolted together in banks.
Not sure where to start, i guess im going to have to download the wiring diagrams and get it printed out, unravel and trace both ends of everything, and start ripping out the stuff i dont need, flasher modules for the brake lights, electronic chain oilers, led strips everywhere, heated grips that block the "flash" trigger on the high beams from working, chinese gear indicator that is hit and miss, etc etc., Just to try and regain a bit of KISS engineering again lol.
Also, does anyone know if there are LED stop/tail wedge bulbs on the market?
So now the tail lights, the side radiator lights he installed, and the DTRL he installed no longer work. Brake, head and indicator lights still work.
None of the fuses in the fuse box are blown. The wiring under there is a sea of inline fuses, crimp splices, naked cut wire ends tucked away so you cant see them, modules and gizmos i dont need, the two main cables off the battery both have about a dozen ring terminals bolted together in banks.
Not sure where to start, i guess im going to have to download the wiring diagrams and get it printed out, unravel and trace both ends of everything, and start ripping out the stuff i dont need, flasher modules for the brake lights, electronic chain oilers, led strips everywhere, heated grips that block the "flash" trigger on the high beams from working, chinese gear indicator that is hit and miss, etc etc., Just to try and regain a bit of KISS engineering again lol.
Also, does anyone know if there are LED stop/tail wedge bulbs on the market?
03-12-2019, 09:11 PM
#33
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
Thanks mate. So anyway, its going in for RWC next week, Its a pretty good bike but i reckon it needs a rear disc and a front tyre which ive got coming, but also, the PO has one of those ebay smoked led tail lights. Its pretty crap, can barely see that its illuminated during the day. So anyway, with the plan to put the standard tail light back on, i was poking around in the bulb sockets back there with the multimeter to see if they still had voltage and inadvertantly shorted it out like the muppet i am.
So now the tail lights, the side radiator lights he installed, and the DTRL he installed no longer work. Brake, head and indicator lights still work.
None of the fuses in the fuse box are blown. The wiring under there is a sea of inline fuses, crimp splices, naked cut wire ends tucked away so you cant see them, modules and gizmos i dont need, the two main cables off the battery both have about a dozen ring terminals bolted together in banks.
Not sure where to start, i guess im going to have to download the wiring diagrams and get it printed out, unravel and trace both ends of everything, and start ripping out the stuff i dont need, flasher modules for the brake lights, electronic chain oilers, led strips everywhere, heated grips that block the "flash" trigger on the high beams from working, chinese gear indicator that is hit and miss, etc etc., Just to try and regain a bit of KISS engineering again lol.
Also, does anyone know if there are LED stop/tail wedge bulbs on the market?
So now the tail lights, the side radiator lights he installed, and the DTRL he installed no longer work. Brake, head and indicator lights still work.
None of the fuses in the fuse box are blown. The wiring under there is a sea of inline fuses, crimp splices, naked cut wire ends tucked away so you cant see them, modules and gizmos i dont need, the two main cables off the battery both have about a dozen ring terminals bolted together in banks.
Not sure where to start, i guess im going to have to download the wiring diagrams and get it printed out, unravel and trace both ends of everything, and start ripping out the stuff i dont need, flasher modules for the brake lights, electronic chain oilers, led strips everywhere, heated grips that block the "flash" trigger on the high beams from working, chinese gear indicator that is hit and miss, etc etc., Just to try and regain a bit of KISS engineering again lol.
Also, does anyone know if there are LED stop/tail wedge bulbs on the market?
Wire diagram post #5:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-cosmetic-34/intergrated-led-tail-light-installation-28356/#&gid=1&pid=1
As for wedge bulbs, yes there is plenty mate, don't use the cheep Ebay crap, you have to buy high end, like Morimoto or IPF!
Look at this led taillight conversion we have, works really well:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...etrofit-15217/
Cheers mate
03-13-2019, 01:38 AM
#35
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Reverting back to your cooling question.
About 6 years ago I did a heap of stuff to my engine including an electric water pump.
My bike hardly ever gets above 81 C with standard coolant, radiators and oil cooler.
With the harsh temps we get here in Oz I was always worried about the heat.
I fitted a Davies Craig unit and it has performed fantastically well under very harsh conditions.
If you are interested I can post pics.
About 6 years ago I did a heap of stuff to my engine including an electric water pump.
My bike hardly ever gets above 81 C with standard coolant, radiators and oil cooler.
With the harsh temps we get here in Oz I was always worried about the heat.
I fitted a Davies Craig unit and it has performed fantastically well under very harsh conditions.
If you are interested I can post pics.
03-14-2019, 01:50 AM
#37
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
I will post some more info on the pump mod.
I was a fly in fly out worker in Queensland for a few years and due to boredom on the job I transported my VTR up .
i figured it was cheaper than getting on the **** everyday with my work colleagues.
One day I decided to service the bike and it turned into a major upgrade of the engine.
I embarked on an oil and filter change and it turned into a major project that took about 6 weeks.
The reason for the pump was to reduce reciprocal mass allowing the engine to spin up quicker.
A lot of mucking about and the pump was fitted and I had a watertight cooling system.
I removed the water pump drive gear and chain as well as the anti rattle gears.
I left the impeller in place with a new seal and bearing.
Been in for ages and no probs.
will take some pics on the week end.
When you do this you remove the thermostat and a few hoses.
This mod was done in conjunction with some major engine mods that I won't bore you with but the pump runs continually and is a common mod with the car guys that run inter coolers on their rice burners as it flows more water and keeps their inter coolers supplied with a larger volume of water hence a denser charge of air and fuel that makes more power.
As I said before my bike hardly ever exceeds 81 degrees C and some times I think it runs too cool.
I was a fly in fly out worker in Queensland for a few years and due to boredom on the job I transported my VTR up .
i figured it was cheaper than getting on the **** everyday with my work colleagues.
One day I decided to service the bike and it turned into a major upgrade of the engine.
I embarked on an oil and filter change and it turned into a major project that took about 6 weeks.
The reason for the pump was to reduce reciprocal mass allowing the engine to spin up quicker.
A lot of mucking about and the pump was fitted and I had a watertight cooling system.
I removed the water pump drive gear and chain as well as the anti rattle gears.
I left the impeller in place with a new seal and bearing.
Been in for ages and no probs.
will take some pics on the week end.
When you do this you remove the thermostat and a few hoses.
This mod was done in conjunction with some major engine mods that I won't bore you with but the pump runs continually and is a common mod with the car guys that run inter coolers on their rice burners as it flows more water and keeps their inter coolers supplied with a larger volume of water hence a denser charge of air and fuel that makes more power.
As I said before my bike hardly ever exceeds 81 degrees C and some times I think it runs too cool.
03-14-2019, 03:04 AM
#38
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 66
Cheers dude, yeah id imagine having your bike to tinker with would be the best way to preserve your sanity in that situation too!
But its beyond the scope of what id like to do to the bike. Id prefer to keep a thermostat, and definitely wont be altering the engine internals save for the cct at some stage.
once i get time to sort this wiring situation, next step will be a good old coolant flush and mabe chuck the thermostat in a saucepan with a thermometre to see whats up. Probably get one from supercheap that approximates it close enough to fit if its a conventional layout.
still need to download the workshop manuals too
But its beyond the scope of what id like to do to the bike. Id prefer to keep a thermostat, and definitely wont be altering the engine internals save for the cct at some stage.
once i get time to sort this wiring situation, next step will be a good old coolant flush and mabe chuck the thermostat in a saucepan with a thermometre to see whats up. Probably get one from supercheap that approximates it close enough to fit if its a conventional layout.
still need to download the workshop manuals too
Last edited by VTRsquid; 03-14-2019 at 03:07 AM.
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