Newb checking in. About to acquire a '98 1000f - Any advice?
06-23-2016, 06:53 AM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Kennesaw, Ga.
Posts: 2
Newb checking in. About to acquire a '98 1000f - Any advice?
New to the VTR, not to bikes. I am looking at a trade this weekend for my newly restored 95 Magna 750 for a 98 VTR. I have only a minor acquaintance with the twin machine, however I have a '00 VFR800 that I have logged 50,000 grinning miles on. I took a quick ride on the 1000 last night. I liked the light setup, the torquiness ( is that a word?), the grunt. The bike appears basically stock aside from some aftermarket cans.
IS the anything I should take a second look at before making the trade? Any issues I should expect to correct or upgrade off the bat?
I am no stranger to wrenches, grease, carbs, or the like; so hit me!
IS the anything I should take a second look at before making the trade? Any issues I should expect to correct or upgrade off the bat?
I am no stranger to wrenches, grease, carbs, or the like; so hit me!
06-23-2016, 07:57 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
Good choice as the VTR is a very reliable bike, however to address 2 main weaknesses change self-destructing auto CCTs to manual tensioners and upgrade stock R/R to at minimum a later finned version or even better a Mosfet. Doing these two fundamental relatively easy mods will give you many worry free miles compared to the cost and trouble if and when they fail & invariably bite you in the bum.
Check over for corrosion shock/swingarm linkages, starter motor terminal under the rubber hood. And subframe can exhibit corrosion. Look on side of plastics panels for signs of repair and clutch cover as that invariably gets damaged in tumbles.. Another thing that can tell you how well it is maintained is the condtion of the flat head plug pins covering the pad pins on the brake callipers. Plus check for excessive play in the rear sprocket cush drive.
And just check over the usual servicing / consumables as per most bikes.
Check over for corrosion shock/swingarm linkages, starter motor terminal under the rubber hood. And subframe can exhibit corrosion. Look on side of plastics panels for signs of repair and clutch cover as that invariably gets damaged in tumbles.. Another thing that can tell you how well it is maintained is the condtion of the flat head plug pins covering the pad pins on the brake callipers. Plus check for excessive play in the rear sprocket cush drive.
And just check over the usual servicing / consumables as per most bikes.
06-23-2016, 08:26 AM
#3
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Kennesaw, Ga.
Posts: 2
Good choice as the VTR is a very reliable bike, however to address 2 main weaknesses change self-destructing auto CCTs to manual tensioners and upgrade stock R/R to at minimum a later finned version or even better a Mosfet. Doing these two fundamental relatively easy mods will give you many worry free miles compared to the cost and trouble if and when they fail & invariably bite you in the bum.
Check over for corrosion shock/swingarm linkages, starter motor terminal under the rubber hood. And subframe can exhibit corrosion. Look on side of plastics panels for signs of repair and clutch cover as that invariably gets damaged in tumbles.. Another thing that can tell you how well it is maintained is the condtion of the flat head plug pins covering the pad pins on the brake callipers. Plus check for excessive play in the rear sprocket cush drive.
And just check over the usual servicing / consumables as per most bikes.
Check over for corrosion shock/swingarm linkages, starter motor terminal under the rubber hood. And subframe can exhibit corrosion. Look on side of plastics panels for signs of repair and clutch cover as that invariably gets damaged in tumbles.. Another thing that can tell you how well it is maintained is the condtion of the flat head plug pins covering the pad pins on the brake callipers. Plus check for excessive play in the rear sprocket cush drive.
And just check over the usual servicing / consumables as per most bikes.
Had no idea about the cct's. I'll definitely look into that!
06-23-2016, 01:53 PM
#5
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
Good choice! I too have a 99 VFR800 and a 97 VTR. They're both red and my wife can't tell the difference between them, or why I need two.
Personally I didn't like my VTR's brakes all that much, and a cheap and easy upgrade is to get a set of CBR954 front brakes off eBay which bolt right on with a tiny amount of massaging and make for a much more powerful and controllable brake. I can also recommend adding some mirror spacers so you can see what you just passed.
Personally I didn't like my VTR's brakes all that much, and a cheap and easy upgrade is to get a set of CBR954 front brakes off eBay which bolt right on with a tiny amount of massaging and make for a much more powerful and controllable brake. I can also recommend adding some mirror spacers so you can see what you just passed.
06-23-2016, 03:55 PM
#6
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Gettysburg, Pa
Posts: 5,072
Welcome! Huge Archer fan here too. 
1st thing I notice about your pic is the lack of a fairing decal which can indicate a respray. Look at the backside of the rads for damage. If it fell over they usually get pushed into something hard and you can see it.
The biggest drawback IMO, is the SuperHawks range, expect to get about 110-120 between fill-ups.
1st thing I notice about your pic is the lack of a fairing decal which can indicate a respray. Look at the backside of the rads for damage. If it fell over they usually get pushed into something hard and you can see it.
The biggest drawback IMO, is the SuperHawks range, expect to get about 110-120 between fill-ups.
06-24-2016, 02:13 AM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Braided lines and CBR600 F4i calipers do the job as well, also EBC HH pads make a world of difference when fitting these.
Also good idea to do a carb sync and idle drop as well just to make sure things are right(That is if you buy it)
Check the water pump weep hole to make sure that the seal for the pump is not shot.
Check the exhaust pipe joints to make sure the gaskets are not leaking.
Check the steering stem bearings for movement and make sure there are no creaking noises from the back shock by bouncing up and down on the bike.
After that it's mainly checking for road rash on the bike to make sure it hasn't been down the road.
Great bike and fun to modify to suit your riding.
There is a wealth of info on this forum and a great bunch of dedicated owners that are willing to share their knowledge.
Welcome , and enjoy the journey.
Also good idea to do a carb sync and idle drop as well just to make sure things are right(That is if you buy it)
Check the water pump weep hole to make sure that the seal for the pump is not shot.
Check the exhaust pipe joints to make sure the gaskets are not leaking.
Check the steering stem bearings for movement and make sure there are no creaking noises from the back shock by bouncing up and down on the bike.
After that it's mainly checking for road rash on the bike to make sure it hasn't been down the road.
Great bike and fun to modify to suit your riding.
There is a wealth of info on this forum and a great bunch of dedicated owners that are willing to share their knowledge.
Welcome , and enjoy the journey.
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