My turn for a R/R failure
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 466
From: SF Bay Area
My turn for a R/R failure
Hey all,
Long time no post for me. I haven't been on the bike much do to a shoulder injury and some suspension issues. I finally got the suspension worked out, and an exhaust gasket so naturally I had to take it for a test ride. The test ride went fine and sparked the "Damn I really need to ride again" bug. With that being said I went for a commute ride in 101F heat and ended up burning up my R/R and melted the connector. One of my wires came out of the plug and grounded to the frame, which I think is that did me in. Thankfully I stalled out parallel to a gas station driveway, at a red light, one turn away from the highway on ramp. So Its time for a new one!
That is all, Ride safe Ride often!
Long time no post for me. I haven't been on the bike much do to a shoulder injury and some suspension issues. I finally got the suspension worked out, and an exhaust gasket so naturally I had to take it for a test ride. The test ride went fine and sparked the "Damn I really need to ride again" bug. With that being said I went for a commute ride in 101F heat and ended up burning up my R/R and melted the connector. One of my wires came out of the plug and grounded to the frame, which I think is that did me in. Thankfully I stalled out parallel to a gas station driveway, at a red light, one turn away from the highway on ramp. So Its time for a new one!
That is all, Ride safe Ride often!
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 236
From: Modesto, CA
I just sent a reply to your PM on the other forum.
I recommend checking your stator as well and confrim it's not damaged before ordering new parts.
Fully Charge the battery, Leave the R/R unplugged and start the bike.
Now Measure the AC Voltage output Between the three stator leads. At Idle , 3k rpm and 5k rpm. The voltage should be close between each set of leads at a given rpm and they should start out at 10-20 VAC below 2000 rpm and around 70 VAC @ 5000 rpm .
If the stator doesn't check out buy a good stator as well.
I would test the battery as well.
Like I said in the PM I recommend not using an OEM style r/r connector anymore and go with the Furukawa QLW connectors.
Also eliminate the stock connector between the stator and the wiring harness.
Part of the reason for failures is the stock connectors corroding and weakening the electrical connection resulting in more resistance( and in turn more heat build up).
I recommend checking your stator as well and confrim it's not damaged before ordering new parts.
Fully Charge the battery, Leave the R/R unplugged and start the bike.
Now Measure the AC Voltage output Between the three stator leads. At Idle , 3k rpm and 5k rpm. The voltage should be close between each set of leads at a given rpm and they should start out at 10-20 VAC below 2000 rpm and around 70 VAC @ 5000 rpm .
If the stator doesn't check out buy a good stator as well.
I would test the battery as well.
Like I said in the PM I recommend not using an OEM style r/r connector anymore and go with the Furukawa QLW connectors.
Also eliminate the stock connector between the stator and the wiring harness.
Part of the reason for failures is the stock connectors corroding and weakening the electrical connection resulting in more resistance( and in turn more heat build up).
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 397
From: UK
Good advice that rick.
It really surprises me the amount of members on here that either haven't replaced the R/R or go and replace with a non MOSFET. You guys have easy acces to a new MOSFET style R/R over there too. Unfortunatly over the pond it costs us a fortune for 2nd hand ones on ebay or if we want new we have to order from the states and then get hit by customs.
(:-})
It really surprises me the amount of members on here that either haven't replaced the R/R or go and replace with a non MOSFET. You guys have easy acces to a new MOSFET style R/R over there too. Unfortunatly over the pond it costs us a fortune for 2nd hand ones on ebay or if we want new we have to order from the states and then get hit by customs.
(:-})
Connie Demico does toad?
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 383
From: Lakeway
I was lucky and replaced my rr with a zx6 mosfet unit before anything happened. I cut the rr plug and soldered on females and covered them with heatshrink. Then I could still plug back in my oem rr if something went wrong. That was 10k miles ago and have had no problems.
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