General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

Maybe clutch?

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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 07:03 PM
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Maybe clutch?

I recently bought a 98 super hawk. I drove it around and ran it through the gears before purchasing. the bike would shut off after it would idle for a minute or two but I believe it is do to needing carb adjustment. I decided to drive the bike home and after 10 minutes I went put it in 1st gear and slowly let out the clutch and nothing happened. I revved up to 7k rpms and the clutch grabbed hard. I did an oil change but no luck. do you think its the clutch? what parts do I need to replace? this is my first sport bike.
Old Apr 8, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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Yes the clutch. Sounds like the plates are worn out of friction material and/or the springs are sacked. You can open the engine cover with the oil still in if you tip the bike a bit. You can remove the plates to inspect them.

It also may be getting hung up on the clutch basket and not sliding well.

Last edited by smokinjoe73; Apr 8, 2016 at 10:55 PM.
Old Apr 9, 2016 | 05:57 AM
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If and when you remove the clutch slave, zip tie your clutch lever tight to the grip.

How does the fluid appear in the clutch reservoir?
Old Apr 9, 2016 | 06:37 AM
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I am not confident in my ability to work on a motorcycle. I have wooed on cars for 10 years but never touched a bike.
Old Apr 9, 2016 | 06:42 AM
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Well, the clutch is not a hard repair if you have general mechanical abilities. Take note of disassembly order and replace the fiber discs, reassemble in the exact order. It is also possible if you share your location, one of this forums members may be able to help for a small token of appreciation of course.

How many miles are on the bike?
Old Apr 9, 2016 | 06:44 AM
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Virginia beach VA Indian river rd and providence Rd. Bike has 16k miles on it.
Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:29 AM
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If you haven't yet, download the pdf Service Manual in the link below:
superhawk996.net
Once you see what's under the engine cover and also what you need to do, it isn't that hard.

Also, take a look at the Knowledge Base here to learn A LOT about your VTR.

Concerning the bike shutting off, you will want to sync your carbs. Do a search for the "two bottle" method. For me, it seems to be not only the easiest, but just about the cheapest as well.

Last edited by CruxGNZ; Apr 9, 2016 at 07:35 AM.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 03:14 PM
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If you do service the clutch you will need a set of friction discs, new springs, and the clutch cover gasket. I ordered parts from Partzilla, OEM gasket and EBC discs and springs. A rubber mallet is handy to encourage the clutch cover to come off. The top fairing and water pump need to come off to do the job, but you only need basic tools like a 5mm allen key, 8, 10 and 12mm socket. A torque wrench should be used on the bolts that hold the springs in, they are easy to snap by all accounts.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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It turns out the line just needed to be bled.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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Not surprising, thanks for letting us know.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 05:43 PM
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Aw man...All that info on friction and steel plates, gaskets etc wasted?

Now that's what I call Occam's hammer. Good move. Most guys would just hand it to a shop that would replace every part even near the clutch as well as the battery, tires and chain.

Carry on.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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I did take it to a shop to check the clutch and do a safety check for $75. turned out the line just needed to be bled and he made me a list of things that need my immediate attention.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 10:55 PM
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Wow 75 clams? No wonder the guys whose bikes I work on love me.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 11:05 PM
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I apologize he only charged my 45 because he didn't have to look at the clutch disc.
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 07:01 AM
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Well, the important thing is you are back on the bike.

Keep an eye out for air finding its way back into the system. (any change in clutch action). Just in case there is an inherent issue. Hopefully he changed the fluid but they usually don't if they just say "bleed".
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