Knocking noise at low RPMs
06-06-2016, 03:18 PM
#1
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Knocking noise at low RPMs
Whatsup everyone, This is my first post on this forum after reading a ton of information before I bought my bike.
I have had my 2003 VTR for about 3 months now. It has just under 20,000 miles and seems to run perfect. Today, on a long ride to my class, I got off the highway and started driving in some traffic when I noticed a light knocking noise coming from (I think) below the tank. It seems to go away at around 4-5k rpms, but maybe I just cant hear it over the engine noise, and I seem to only hear it in first and second gear.
It just started happening today, as I'm always listening for noises I'm not familiar with (paranoid). I have heard people mention high TPS or some sort of carb issues as possible reasons. Reading this forum has gotten me paranoid about CCT's. Should I be worried? anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for any input
I have had my 2003 VTR for about 3 months now. It has just under 20,000 miles and seems to run perfect. Today, on a long ride to my class, I got off the highway and started driving in some traffic when I noticed a light knocking noise coming from (I think) below the tank. It seems to go away at around 4-5k rpms, but maybe I just cant hear it over the engine noise, and I seem to only hear it in first and second gear.
It just started happening today, as I'm always listening for noises I'm not familiar with (paranoid). I have heard people mention high TPS or some sort of carb issues as possible reasons. Reading this forum has gotten me paranoid about CCT's. Should I be worried? anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for any input
06-06-2016, 05:17 PM
#2
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Squid
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 32
Knocking or more of a ticking?
Being that it's coming from the top of the engine I would say you might have a rocker a little loose, it might still be in spec and still make a ticking noise. The V Twins are hard to keep "tick free".
Being that it's coming from the top of the engine I would say you might have a rocker a little loose, it might still be in spec and still make a ticking noise. The V Twins are hard to keep "tick free".
06-06-2016, 06:01 PM
#3
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Location: Brookfield, WI
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On a serious note, if the noise was constant, I would be worried. Have you considered going to manual CCT's or doing the stopper mod to keep you from getting grey hairs?
EDIT: Where are you located? Maybe a member can listen to your bike and help you out?
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 06-06-2016 at 06:04 PM.
06-06-2016, 07:04 PM
#4
VTR virgin
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I agree with Crux, get some manual CCT's and put your mind at ease.
06-07-2016, 05:43 PM
#7
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Thanos for the replies so far. It's a knocking noise, most noticeable in first and second gear, and seems to speed up as the rpms increase. It's still probably only 1 knock per second. Also it seems like it's coming from the bottom of the engine on the left side.
06-07-2016, 05:44 PM
#8
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06-07-2016, 05:45 PM
#9
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Also it seems to stop around 4k revs
06-07-2016, 05:46 PM
#10
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If it was above the tank, I would suggest changing your diet.
On a serious note, if the noise was constant, I would be worried. Have you considered going to manual CCT's or doing the stopper mod to keep you from getting grey hairs?
EDIT: Where are you located? Maybe a member can listen to your bike and help you out?
On a serious note, if the noise was constant, I would be worried. Have you considered going to manual CCT's or doing the stopper mod to keep you from getting grey hairs?
EDIT: Where are you located? Maybe a member can listen to your bike and help you out?
06-07-2016, 06:26 PM
#12
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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The knocking noise stays "1 knock per second" even as RPM's rise?
As wierd as this may sound, this could even be your chain. How old are your sprockets and chain? Are they in good condition?
As wierd as this may sound, this could even be your chain. How old are your sprockets and chain? Are they in good condition?
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 06-07-2016 at 06:30 PM.
06-07-2016, 06:40 PM
#13
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it speeds up as the engine speed increases. It could possibly be the chain, the sprocket is not worn, but I havent checked for broken teeth. I bought the bike about 3 months ago and I'm assuming that chain and sprocket are stock.
06-07-2016, 06:55 PM
#15
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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If one of the CCT's were going, it would be more of a chain slapping noise inside the engine and yes, it would be present at idle. However, when a CCT goes, it doesn't happen gradually, the CCT's spring breaks and your piston hits the valves.
Let me get you the links for installing manual CCT's and also the stopper mod for stock CCT's. I'll edit this post within a couple hours.
EDIT: Here is the link for installing manual CCT's. I like this link, because it shows many pictures of the process.
http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583
Here is the link for the Stopper Mod. This uses the stock CCT's, but if the spring was to snap, your engine will be safe.
http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19416
Let me get you the links for installing manual CCT's and also the stopper mod for stock CCT's. I'll edit this post within a couple hours.
EDIT: Here is the link for installing manual CCT's. I like this link, because it shows many pictures of the process.
http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583
Here is the link for the Stopper Mod. This uses the stock CCT's, but if the spring was to snap, your engine will be safe.
http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19416
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 06-07-2016 at 07:06 PM.
06-07-2016, 07:01 PM
#17
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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It could be a ticking noise coming from the drive chain, if one of the links are bad (rust, corrosion).
06-07-2016, 07:13 PM
#18
That one guy
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Idle while stopped or idle as in you pull in the clutch while moving and let the RPMs drop?
If it's not cct related it's still highly recommended to change them over to manuals. The MCCTS can be picked up for under 100 bucks but it costs a lot less than rebuilding the motor. Money well spent.
If it's not cct related it's still highly recommended to change them over to manuals. The MCCTS can be picked up for under 100 bucks but it costs a lot less than rebuilding the motor. Money well spent.
06-07-2016, 07:33 PM
#19
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Idle while stopped or idle as in you pull in the clutch while moving and let the RPMs drop?
If it's not cct related it's still highly recommended to change them over to manuals. The MCCTS can be picked up for under 100 bucks but it costs a lot less than rebuilding the motor. Money well spent.
If it's not cct related it's still highly recommended to change them over to manuals. The MCCTS can be picked up for under 100 bucks but it costs a lot less than rebuilding the motor. Money well spent.
06-07-2016, 07:46 PM
#20
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If one of the CCT's were going, it would be more of a chain slapping noise inside the engine and yes, it would be present at idle. However, when a CCT goes, it doesn't happen gradually, the CCT's spring breaks and your piston hits the valves.
Let me get you the links for installing manual CCT's and also the stopper mod for stock CCT's. I'll edit this post within a couple hours.
EDIT: Here is the link for installing manual CCT's. I like this link, because it shows many pictures of the process.
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)
Here is the link for the Stopper Mod. This uses the stock CCT's, but if the spring was to snap, your engine will be safe.
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod)
Let me get you the links for installing manual CCT's and also the stopper mod for stock CCT's. I'll edit this post within a couple hours.
EDIT: Here is the link for installing manual CCT's. I like this link, because it shows many pictures of the process.
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)
Here is the link for the Stopper Mod. This uses the stock CCT's, but if the spring was to snap, your engine will be safe.
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod)
06-08-2016, 05:20 AM
#22
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I just did an oil change yesterday and there was no metal on the end of the drain bolt. The oil had gone a while without replacing though from the service records I got with the bike...
06-09-2016, 04:31 AM
#24
That one guy
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I'm almost wondering if it's not an exhaust leak. Mine made a clucking noise when that graphite spacer gave out and had simular results of not happening during idle, noticible at low rpms and disappearing at higher rpms.
When this happened though I could feel the heat on my left leg at every rmp besides idle.
Only other thing I can think of from the lower left would be the clutch plates but there would be metal in the oil unless it's still caught up in the oil pan.
Ve needs za wideo [/end extremely bad Russian accent]
06-09-2016, 03:34 PM
#25
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lol. I'll try to take a video, but its going to be hard because I only hear it while im riding. I just got a message from a guy having a similar problem and his mechanic thinks its the chain/sprocket. It would make sense because the chain and sprocket isnt under much stress while just rolling, yeah? Once I let out the clutch, the noise starts. It may be constant but I just cant hear it over the exhaust at higher RPMs (Aftermarket cans). Ill be able to tell you more tomorrow morning, and Ill try to get that video. The guy is having the chain/sprocket replaced next week and said hed let me know
06-09-2016, 04:22 PM
#26
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Can you put the bike in neutral, lift the back end of the bike and spin the wheel? If you can, then sit down and do a visual and audible check on the chain and the teeth on both sprockets.
Check the chain & sprockets first, but if you were to make a video, we are only listening for something, so we don't need you hanging off the bike one handed trying to show us the problem.
Check the chain & sprockets first, but if you were to make a video, we are only listening for something, so we don't need you hanging off the bike one handed trying to show us the problem.
06-10-2016, 03:46 AM
#27
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A check of sprockets (front & rear) and chain condition/tight spots and corresponding slack - plus cush drive. And as mentioned be on the look out for leaks from exhaust manifold + header / link pipe seal.
06-12-2016, 04:00 PM
#28
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Location: Middletown, CT
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It definitely could be kinked link in the chain" at 20k in mileage it is due for a chain and sprockets... Never change one without the other. If the previous owner (PO) was skimping on oil services then he was most likely not oil lubricating the chain either... Try riding the bike next to a building wall say the side of a brick or block building in an alley or side street, accelerate until you hear it well then pull in the clutch and let it idle. Are you still hearing it at the same 1 a second interval as beforehand? Then it is not engine related. The building beside the street or alley will help you hear the sound better by bouncing the sound back to you at a higher level...
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