https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewto...t+duty#p351482

http://www.worldoftriumph.com/produc...ead__regulator

 

thanks

 

I'm going to be running an 07 R1 R/R (part number should have an FH at the beginning not SH) I even got a plug wiring kit off ebay for $14 but theres a whole long thread about this subject...

 

well, oddly the bike works now. It took about 30 minutes of riding for it to happen both times before, so maybe it's when the R/R gets to a certain heat level? I don't know. going to work on it today and find out.

 

I would stop riding your bike with that R/R. Quite a few people here can testify that when the R/R goes bad, it can take out several other electrical items with it (battery, dash, etc.). Don't mean to scare you, but it can happen.

 

yeah, I'm not riding it, I just started it up. I already ordered the R1 shindengen r/r with the connectors.

 

Awesome

They're easy to install, but if you have any questions, just ask.

 

did the swap, all is well so far. running better than it was. used to constantly stall out and isn't doing that anymore. now on to the body work.

 

kepp us posted on the headlight issue... so whats up with the bodywork? or did I miss something somewhere?

 

yep. gonna get a new bulb and all that later this week and see if it still blows the low beam.

bike has no bodywork. tank is dented. fairing and tail were removed after a trackday lowside. hence the cafe racer headlight. I'm trying to decide between making my own bodywork and fitting RC51 race bodywork with endurance racer style bolt-on headlights.

 

so it wasn't the regulator. Bike is running better than it was, but it did the exact same thing this morning that it did before the regulator swap. off of idle, it stutters and chokes out when I hit the throttle, unless I rev it high before letting the clutch out, so i'm thinking it's a pilot jet issue. or at least a carb/fuel delivery issue.

 

well, i took apart the carbs and cleaned em out and put em back together. found a bunch of stripped bolts and some other wierdness in the airbox, like, the breather tube to the rear cylinder head was duct taped closed? the screw was stripped on the rear velocity stack, and the tab was broken off, etc etc. idle mixture screws were way too far out.

anyway, put it all back together and it runs great, except A: i put a stock air filter in and now it backfires on decel, so back to the K&N we go. waste of money there. and B: it immediately popped the fuses for the front and rear running lights again. not sure what the hell is going on there, but it's super irritating.

 

Do yourself a flavor and check to make sure there are no intake leaks and/or exhaust leaks. Both of those can cause popping on deceleration.

As for the electrical issue, get yourself a multimeter and start looking at all everything. If your previous R/R started to go, it could have already done damage to the electronics.

 

ok, thanks. it never popped on decel with the k&n, so i'm assuming if i put it back, it'll quit. it's been rejetted to larger jets, so i'm guessing it's running rich now with the stock filter. it was mostly an experiment to see if it ran any better, but adjusting the mixture screws seems to have fixed the issue i was trying to fix.

what am I looking for with the multimeter? I really dont know much about bike electronics, I mostly have experience with the mechanical side.

 

When you took your carbs and put them back on, you could have knocked a vacuum hose off, or the carbs are not seated properly in the rubber insulators. This causes popping on deceleration also. But, it sounds like you fixed the issue? Are you using the stock or K&N filter?

When you put the new R/R on, did you check voltage at the battery? If you take a look in the manual, it tells you how to check to make sure the R/R and stator are working properly. If you haven't done so yet, you can download the manual in the Knowledge Base here.

 

ok thanks.

 

******* hell, I'm so tired of this. it's still cutting out on me randomly. arrrgh. so much for a quick fix. going to have to go back to square one and do it the right way.

 

Have you checked the sidestand switch? I had this issue when I first put my bike together. The engine would cut out completely and intermittently. The sidestand switch was bad.

What do you think the engine cutting out might be, electrical or fuel delivery? If fuel delivery, it could also be the petcock.

 

my first bike was also a honda twin and had these exact same endless weird electrical problems. so irritating.

I dont know. I just checked all the fuel lines and jets, and they are fine. it could be the petcock, I suppose. it is definitely acting like it's not getting fuel. is stutters and then cuts out. and it always does it at low throttle.

 

I checked the battery. running, it floats around 13.85. The bike keeps instantly blowing the taillight running light fuse everytime i replace it, so theres something going wrong somewhere. I tried making sense of the wiring diagram, but i've never been so hot with electrical on bikes. diagram for that fuse says, "meter. tail. illumination." bike fuse box cover says "meter, tail position." what does that mean? is there something else on that circuit, or do i have a short in the light circuit? it's also blowing the horn fuse, but not as often.

 

Based on that it sounds like the wiring harness should be carefully inspected everywhere it's in contact with the frame, you're looking for worn insulation on a spot pinched or rubbing against grounded metal.

 

that's basically what I was thinking. I was hoping I didn't have to go through the whole wiring harness to find a short, but hey. It is what it is.

 

Be sure to review the PVLIR thread. You have also received some great advice concerning the side stand switch, but my VTR had similar issues as yours and it was the Neutral Position Switch. Check up on my former thread concerning this, and good luck on getting her running properly.

 

the taillight problem was indeed a short. one of the wires for the taillight was bare and touching the subframe. fixed that.

I put a jumper in the sidestand connector to bypass the sensor, and it made no difference in the stuttering problem. bike was starting and idling fine, so i took it out for a test ride and it started doing it again.

so here's what it's doing: When I start it, it runs fine. for the first 5 minutes of a ride, bike is totally fine. but after about 5 minutes, If I coast or come to a stop, the bike dies, and doesnt want to start again. I can usually get it started again, but it takes several tries and I usually have to rev the **** out of it. Then, when I try to take off, it dies again right when I open the throttle. again, If i rev the **** out of it, and then let the clutch out slowly, it will start off, and once I am going, as long as I keep the throttle above 1/3rd open or so, it's fine. I just went for a 45 minute highway ride. it died on me when i stopped for a stoplight between my house and the highway. stutter stutter die rev start die start revhigh clutch out go, then 45 minutes of doing 80 with no problems, then I get off the exit and it dies again. then it dies at every single stop or anytime i let the throttle close too much.

The longer I've been riding, the faster it will die at low throttle and the less likely it is that I can get it restarted. If I sit and let it cool down, it starts again fine, until I try to start off, at which point i have to rev the **** out of it again.

If I hadn't just cleaned the carbs, I'd say it sounded like the idle mixture screws were set wrong or the pilot jet was clogged, but I don't think that's the case. plus the weird thing where it only does it hot.

it sounds a lot like the first post in this thread: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ix-pics-19843/

except I dont have problems accelerating once I get going from a standstill. and it isn't leaking fuel on the floor.

ideas? any help much appreciated, I'm super frustrated.

 

I've had similar issues in the past from running way too rich... what mods/jetting are you running?

 

it's been rejetted with bigger mains, i dont remember which number. It has a 2-1 exhaust with a Leo Vince can. K&N Filter. the triangular rubber pieces that hold up the filter in the airbox have holes drilled in them.

the thing is, it was setup like this when I got it, and it ran perfect the first couple months. I rode it on several 3-hour trips without a single issue. Then, one day, it started doing this crap when I was almost to work (a 35 minute ride). then on the way home it started doing it really bad, and now every time I ride it does it. and it never popped on deceleration or anything like that.

I also ran it with a new stock air filter and it still did the same thing.

 

you just cleaned the carbs? is it possible the diaphram seals arent seated properly? if you push in the slides and let them go they should slowly return to position, if they snap back then you dont hsve a seal

 

no, that's not it. it was doing this before I touched the carbs. I also made sure the diaphragms were seated correctly.

 

vacuum leak?

 

possibly?