FP advance ignition rotor install Qs
10-30-2007, 08:37 PM
#1
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FP advance ignition rotor install Qs
Hey all! Thanks to RickB I now have my Factory Pro 4 degree advance ignition rotor. Thanks Rick, pleasure meeting you and doing business with you!
So I have questions. A whooole bunch. I searched, but need more. In return to all/any help i'd like to offer to take pics of my install and do a write up that might be considered as an addition to SHF's ever-growing Knowledge Base.
For those of you that have/had one of these units installed I ask the following, please and thanks;
1) what did you set your TPS resistance to (FP recommends 500 ohm as per Honda manual)? any problems (detonation, pre-ignition etc)?
2) did you need to use a different octane fuel? what was old/new octane values?
3) (assuming you already re-jetted your carbs BEFORE installing the rotor ..... ) did you need to re-jet your carbs? was the difference in jetting a large change?
Can't think of much else pertinent at this time as far as cause/effect(s) are concerned.
NOW, the installation stuff .....
I'm a gearhead, so this will be done by myself in the driveway. I'm confident this will be no problem. I've read through the manual and have a decent idea of what needs to be done (thank god the clutch doesn't need to come out! LOL!). I do have a question/concern about the cover gasket, though .....
For those that have removed the right side cover - what material is used for the gasket? I'm wondering if it's a re-useable gasket or if it's something that might tear/fail when I remove it. Also wondering why bother with a new gasket and why not just use RTV to seal it all up?!?!? One less part to order/wait for, which can sometimes be a BIG deal up here in Cana-duh.
All/any help is greatly appreciated. PATIA!
So I have questions. A whooole bunch. I searched, but need more. In return to all/any help i'd like to offer to take pics of my install and do a write up that might be considered as an addition to SHF's ever-growing Knowledge Base.
For those of you that have/had one of these units installed I ask the following, please and thanks;
1) what did you set your TPS resistance to (FP recommends 500 ohm as per Honda manual)? any problems (detonation, pre-ignition etc)?
2) did you need to use a different octane fuel? what was old/new octane values?
3) (assuming you already re-jetted your carbs BEFORE installing the rotor ..... ) did you need to re-jet your carbs? was the difference in jetting a large change?
Can't think of much else pertinent at this time as far as cause/effect(s) are concerned.
NOW, the installation stuff .....
I'm a gearhead, so this will be done by myself in the driveway. I'm confident this will be no problem. I've read through the manual and have a decent idea of what needs to be done (thank god the clutch doesn't need to come out! LOL!). I do have a question/concern about the cover gasket, though .....
For those that have removed the right side cover - what material is used for the gasket? I'm wondering if it's a re-useable gasket or if it's something that might tear/fail when I remove it. Also wondering why bother with a new gasket and why not just use RTV to seal it all up?!?!? One less part to order/wait for, which can sometimes be a BIG deal up here in Cana-duh.
All/any help is greatly appreciated. PATIA!
10-31-2007, 06:26 AM
#2
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I did mine a while ago and love the difference. Very crisp running and response from the bottom up.
1. 485
2. Nope...VTRs have relatively low compression stock. No pinging at all...AT ALL.
3.No jetting change needed. You have not changed flow characteristics in any way so jetting is the same.
4. Old gasket is $20 US and will be destroyed upon removal. You MIGHT be able to reseal with goop but I wouldn't chance it. It's a hassle to do this job and I'd hate to have to do it all over again 'cuz I didn't use a new gasket and now have a drip.
The procedure is outlined well in KB or on Greg' site. Just make sure to use the zipties etc.
Have fun! Takes a couple of hours at least.
1. 485
2. Nope...VTRs have relatively low compression stock. No pinging at all...AT ALL.
3.No jetting change needed. You have not changed flow characteristics in any way so jetting is the same.
4. Old gasket is $20 US and will be destroyed upon removal. You MIGHT be able to reseal with goop but I wouldn't chance it. It's a hassle to do this job and I'd hate to have to do it all over again 'cuz I didn't use a new gasket and now have a drip.
The procedure is outlined well in KB or on Greg' site. Just make sure to use the zipties etc.
Have fun! Takes a couple of hours at least.
10-31-2007, 03:36 PM
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Thanks for the tip, found it on Greg's site. Very helpful!
So, now I need to ask - why the bolt and zip tie? I don't see anything that's spring loaded in there to warrant this. Perhaps they're in place as an aid to preventing the piece from possibly popping off while tightening/loosening the bolt? Hey, I have no problems doing what i'm told - knowing why is nice, though.
Thanks for the input, redman!
Point noted on the purchasing of a new gasket. I'll be at the "local" Honda dealership this week for other bits, so i'll just order that, too.
So, now I need to ask - why the bolt and zip tie? I don't see anything that's spring loaded in there to warrant this. Perhaps they're in place as an aid to preventing the piece from possibly popping off while tightening/loosening the bolt? Hey, I have no problems doing what i'm told - knowing why is nice, though.
Thanks for the input, redman!
Point noted on the purchasing of a new gasket. I'll be at the "local" Honda dealership this week for other bits, so i'll just order that, too.
11-04-2007, 07:35 PM
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You didn't look hard enough. There's a thin gear on another gear, with some springs in between them. The thin one is a quieting gear - keeps the gears from rattling around with the V-twin power pulses. That center bolt that holds the ignition advancer on also holds the quieting gear to the other gear.
11-04-2007, 09:02 PM
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You didn't look hard enough. There's a thin gear on another gear, with some springs in between them. The thin one is a quieting gear - keeps the gears from rattling around with the V-twin power pulses. That center bolt that holds the ignition advancer on also holds the quieting gear to the other gear.
Thanks!
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