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Old 02-06-2013, 04:14 PM
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Enough Already!

I can't stand the weak breakable plastic choke cable guide holders and so spent the $40 for metal Polaris standins that won't break. Right now I've plugged the rear carb choke circuit orifice with a 10mm cap screw but bike likes a choke on both cylinders to start.


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New guides are slightly modified to accept the cable but will work nicely and won't break.

Next pic is a BMC race filter with a K&N on top and it works well but I did put the air dam on as the stock filter has.


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Old 02-06-2013, 04:20 PM
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Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.

My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.

So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:33 PM
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Break

Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.

My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.

So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
Hawk, here's what broke the one. I was putting the stock slide springs back in but didn't take the carbs out; just left the choke cables in place and finagled the set til I could get the front slide cap off. Didn't know I broke the front one til I checked everything before putting the carbs back in place. I then noticed (lucky for me) that the front one was broken. So I switched front and rear guide holders and super glued the broken one before putting it in the rear carb. Later when I went back in to raise the needles .o3o it broke again and that was all I could take. I learned to take it easy and don't reef on anything.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.

My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.

So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
You must have the magic touch, as breaking them with the slightest tug on the cable as you try and unscrew the plastic fitting is very common. Do a search, see for your self.
..

I bet you get 98 MPG and have over 163 HP to the rear wheel as well




The plastic fitting is a known weak spot, there is over 10mm of threaded engagement of the brass fitting into the carb.. .. You would have to literally yank with both hands on the carb and cables attached to do any harm.

Of course, yes, use some common sense .. the weak link went from a crappy plastic fitting that was under-designed, to a brass fitting / aluminum boss on the carb which will get pricey if your ham fisted enough to screw that up.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:53 PM
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here's what broke the one. I was putting the stock slide springs back in but didn't take the carbs out; just left the choke cables in place and finagled the set til I could get the front slide cap off.
9 X out of 10 when I hear someone has broken the plastic nut the carbs have not been removed. I don't think it helps that the cables are under slightly more tension/stress when still attached to the bike. Especially if they are not loosened off at the frame/choke ****. And then that thread is so fine that it can be finicky to get them screwed back on straight.

I've got brass ones on mine, but if I'm removing the carbs I don't take the cables off, and just loosen of at the frame and feed the cables through and lift out still attached to the carbs. Simples!!!

(:-})
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:35 PM
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How?

Originally Posted by cybercarl
9 X out of 10 when I hear someone has broken the plastic nut the carbs have not been removed. I don't think it helps that the cables are under slightly more tension/stress when still attached to the bike. Especially if they are not loosened off at the frame/choke ****. And then that thread is so fine that it can be finicky to get them screwed back on straight.

I've got brass ones on mine, but if I'm removing the carbs I don't take the cables off, and just loosen of at the frame and feed the cables through and lift out still attached to the carbs. Simples!!!

(:-})
I can't get the choke ****/frame mount to pass under the coolant hose so as to keep the cables attached to the carbs upon removal. I there a trick? Can the choke **** frame mount tab be removed to accomplish this? The tab is the problem.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:01 PM
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I leave the frame mount on the bike and loosen of the choke by unscrewing the nut behind to reveal the thread then it slides sideways out the mount. It then passes through the coolant hoses with a bit of a push. Reversal is the opposite, just push it back through the hoses before re-attching the carbs

(:-})

Last edited by cybercarl; 02-06-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
You must have the magic touch, as breaking them with the slightest tug on the cable as you try and unscrew the plastic fitting is very common. Do a search, see for your self.
..
Well I can do a search or go by the number of times I have removed and replaced mine, not to mention the carbs I have do of other people.

On mine alone I would say the number is between 50-100 and I still have the original fittings on my bike.

So actually I have no idea why there is so much of a problem with them.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
So actually I have no idea
OK,. well that explains it then....

I've broken two in 9 years, done when I lifted the carb to get my big hands under to remove the fitting.

Yes removing the bracket and control **** can allow for more slack... but then you have the small sheet metal screw into the aluminum frame to deal with each time.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:49 PM
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Wait, what? $40 for polaris brass ones? You musta went to a polaris dealer in your benzo and they had to "special order" it right? Thats steep.

I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.

Last edited by smokinjoe73; 02-06-2013 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Wait, what? $40 for polaris brass ones? You musta went to a polaris dealer in you benz and they had to "special order" it right? Thats steep..
LOL, I just noticed that...

Retail is like $14, better pricing from several places is $8.77

$40 for two, even with shipping is criminal

Well unless it includes the MOD's required and a second shipping to the end user
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:18 AM
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Price

Originally Posted by E.Marquez
LOL, I just noticed that...

Retail is like $14, better pricing from several places is $8.77

$40 for two, even with shipping is criminal

Well unless it includes the MOD's required and a second shipping to the end user

Online I found them for $8 each plus $16 to ship so ---------sometimes I just have to take in the neck

They'd be easy enough to make out of the right stock, like a 10mm bolt using a drill press and other power tools and if I had a lathe I *would* have done it but I'm happy doing it this way and in the end, happy counts.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Wait, what? $40 for polaris brass ones? You musta went to a polaris dealer in your benzo and they had to "special order" it right? Thats steep.

I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.
No benzo in this garage but there is the Velvet Hammer aka VX1800 and it can put a smile on your face with every upshift.
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:57 PM
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Anyone got a part number for the plastic replacement choke cable guide?
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:10 PM
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Poke around Rony Ayers microfiche

Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Alterego
Anyone got a part number for the plastic replacement choke cable guide?
16046-mbb-640
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