orangezuk

I just picked up a set of mirrors with an LED arrray in them. The LEDs are set up on a two wire system (pos/neg) so I could wire them to opperate as running lights or signals. Problem is it wold be nice to have both.

I was thinking a relay or flasher that is "normaly closed" to opperate the LEDs as a running light with a terminal for the pos signal that would pulse the "normaly closed" switch or ground.

anyone got any ideas?

Tweety

No, that won't work... And as you are asking this question, it tells me there is no point in me trying to explain how you could make it work as both running light and signal... Choose one or the other (preferably signals?!) and be done with it... Or buy another set of LED signals that are made for both functions...

No relay in the world is fast enough to make a LED into a running light, and even if it where it would wear out in an hour of operation...

RWhisen

C'mon Tweets how about some diodes?

Tweety

???

Uh... No... Let's start with some basics...

Bulb = lower voltage means it will glow/ be dim... Ie running light is either the same filament at lower voltage and then full voltage as signal or two filaments in the same bulb, one on for running, both on for signal...

LED = to low voltage means no light, to high means it goes poof and stops working... The only way to dim a LED is to switch it on-off-on-off-on very fast so that the eye sees it as a dimmer light... Or have two chains of LED's, the same way as dual filaments...

So unless your LED signals are purpose built as running lights + signals, no amount of relays, diodes or resistors are going to fix that... However a fully load independent flashing circuit capable of producing an adjustable PWM signal will... I can make such a circuit fairly easy... But I design circuits for a living...

orangezuk

That's why I wasn't looking to chage the input to the LED but to use a "flasher,relay, or sort" that by using the signal "pulse" to interupt the ground.

1971allchaos

electrical goroo? TWEETY
TWEETY-No relay in the world is fast enough to make a LED into a running light, and even if it where it would wear out in an hour of operation...

ORANGEZUK- I wasn't looking to chage the input to the LED but to use a "flasher,relay, or sort" that by using the signal "pulse" to interupt the ground.___

IF- you ask a question, Doesn't mean your gonna like the answer.

TWEETY-But I design circuits for a living... OUR electrical goroo

lazn

Here is what you need: http://www.azcyclelights.com/electronicModules.htm

Tweety

Lets try to explain this another way... Since your LED's aren't purpose built with two separate circuits, the only way you can accomplish both signals and running lights is to replace the flasher/relay whatever you want to call it, with something that can pulse the LED's fast enough to make them appear dim when in running mode, then switch to signal mode and flash them slower...

And since no mechanical relay will be fast enough or last very long doing that (besides the fact that the ticking noise will drive you bonkers) a circuit with a small microprocessor is the only reasonable option... And no such circuit is sold as a standalone AFAIK (there are one's with several programmed odd sequences and such, but they cost lots of $)... The reason being that it's complex enough that it's just cheaper to throw the one's you have in the bin and buy a new set... 3-4 times over if necessary...

Lazn... yeah, those does what he want's... What's the price?

orangezuk

Thankyou all for your help/doubt. Just got a call back from Custom Dynamics out of North Carolina, set me up with the circuitry I needed 14$. We'll give it a shot, I'll let ya know how it goes.

orangezuk

And "doubt" is not ment in an ill way, doubt=reasoning and helps to make good mods, not trial and error!

lazn

Tweety:

My guess is that the cheaper ones don't dim them as running lights.. since being on all the time shouldn't be a problem for LED's (unlike the brights of standard bulbs) then once the signals are on they blink.. so their states would be: "on or blink" rather than: "dim or blink."

Tweety

Yeah, that seems reasonable... The $14 one will not be a microprocessor one that does what I described... But yeah, the LED's are happy being on... So the only drawback is that it might be little difference between signal and running lights seeing as both are equally bright...

Tweety

The only thing I find on that site that costs $14 is a load equalizer... Ie makes LED's flash at the correct timing using the stock relay meant for bulbs... Nothing that makes the LED's act as running lights... All those are 50-60 or more... But I might be missing something...

Seattle_SuperHawk

If i can interupt ????? where did you find mirrors with LED's ? is it a direct bolt on ? pictures ?

1971allchaos

Hey Tweety, Used the search on forum,"Brake light" -got an up grade -Orginally smokingjoe73. Is there an easier, Brighter brake light "LED" upgrade?

Tweety

I'm not sure I understood you completely... The way haknslash did the LED rear/brake light upgrade (Which I then copied) isn't exactly "hard" but it gives in my opinion the best result... You can get LED bulbs to replace the stock ones... Then you get more light, but still only in two spots... With 10 Super LED's spread over the whole of the tail light, you get unequaled visibility...

lazn

I agree.. this would be what he needs from that site: http://www.customdynamics.com/magic_blinkers.htm

orangezuk

Tweety; They are going to put a set togeather for me (not on exactly on the site). They were very helpful, wanted all the info of what I was using, typ of bulbs, # of LEDs, load eqs, ect. They make some for "known" apps, the crusier crowd, most to go with their mods.

Seattle; they are a aftermatket set off a '09 GSXR1000 my cuz parted out. They look very much like some of the Ebay models some on the fourm have used. The mirrors had "movable" base studs, I scraped those and fitted the SH mirror bases. I'v looked 'em over no manufacture markings.

PICs? I dont know........I'm the kind of guy that dosen't roll the project out of the garage till it's done, and it has been way to damn hot to finish paint work. I have to give the bike a hug each night, it has been a while since I'v let her out of the garage.

orangezuk

I check in with more info, and see if it works I guess. Untill then the RANGE is calling and a new .45 has the answer. Thanks guys!

Seattle_SuperHawk

thanks for the info..........

autoteach

Why not run a constantly on relay with a switched off. Run the turn signal positive into the relay to switch it off thereby cutting the power to the lights. Idea, dont know if anyone suggested it.

orangezuk

Autoteach;
Thats where I was going when I started looking for some assistance