Chain Lube
07-05-2005, 01:10 PM
#1
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Squid
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Chain Lube
What do you guys and gals use to lube your chain? I have never used any thing but WD40. With proper attention to tension you can get close to 30,000 miles from a chain and sprocket set. Doesn't pick up and hold dirt the way wax and lubes do, reducing O-Ring wear. Discuss.
07-05-2005, 01:31 PM
#2
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Superstock
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Re: Chain Lube
WD 40 is not a lubricant.
It is a petroleum based moisture displacement product (WD = Water Displacement 40= 40th formula attempted)
It WILL lubricate when wet, but when the carrier dries -which it is designed to do- you are left with very little in the form of wear protection.
I have found my favorite chain lube product: PJ1 Blue Label chain lube. http://www.pj1.com/
It sprays on as a clear liquid, gets very tacky very quickly and does NOT fling off.
It's good stuff.
Brian A
It is a petroleum based moisture displacement product (WD = Water Displacement 40= 40th formula attempted)
It WILL lubricate when wet, but when the carrier dries -which it is designed to do- you are left with very little in the form of wear protection.
I have found my favorite chain lube product: PJ1 Blue Label chain lube. http://www.pj1.com/
It sprays on as a clear liquid, gets very tacky very quickly and does NOT fling off.
It's good stuff.
Brian A
07-05-2005, 01:33 PM
#3
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Re: Chain Lube
I use 75-90W Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil. Lubes like a champ. As long as you dont go overboard with the lube it would fling everywhere. I always put a liberal amount on the chain after i clean all of the old crap off. Then take it around the block in like 1st gear at a slow rate of speed and get it worked in. Then its shinny, lubed up and ready for another "torque fest" 
07-05-2005, 02:20 PM
#5
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Squid
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Re: Chain Lube
I also use WD 40, not to lube the chain, since the outside doesn't need it, but to keep the o-rings from drying out, and the links from rusting (which would then tear up the o-rings).
Years ago when I first started riding I bought one of those tacky chain lubes. I quickly realized they simply attracted dirt, which then chewed up the o-rings. Looking into it further, that is when I learned that the chain is lubed internally, kept inside by the o-rings, and that the chain has rollers, which roll over the teeth to engage the sprocket. Then why do I need to lube the outside?
What is needed is a product that doesn't attract dirt, keeps the o-rings from drying out, and keeps the links from rusting. WD 40 performs these tasks well for me.
Gear oil does a good job on 2 & 3, but not so good on 1 (though still way better than tacky lubes), but if you clean the chain often gear oil should work quite well, probably better than WD 40.
The Scott Oiler (or other automatic oilers) also do 2 & 3 very well, but also the constant dripping of fresh oil tends to carry away the dirt with it, which is why it works quite well also.
Years ago when I first started riding I bought one of those tacky chain lubes. I quickly realized they simply attracted dirt, which then chewed up the o-rings. Looking into it further, that is when I learned that the chain is lubed internally, kept inside by the o-rings, and that the chain has rollers, which roll over the teeth to engage the sprocket. Then why do I need to lube the outside?
What is needed is a product that doesn't attract dirt, keeps the o-rings from drying out, and keeps the links from rusting. WD 40 performs these tasks well for me.
Gear oil does a good job on 2 & 3, but not so good on 1 (though still way better than tacky lubes), but if you clean the chain often gear oil should work quite well, probably better than WD 40.
The Scott Oiler (or other automatic oilers) also do 2 & 3 very well, but also the constant dripping of fresh oil tends to carry away the dirt with it, which is why it works quite well also.
07-05-2005, 08:11 PM
#7
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To clean the chain, I ride the bike in the rain. After letting it dry for 2 or 3 months, riding whenever I feel the urge, I spray on some HP chain lube (blue can from Honda dealer). It sets with a white film, and after a few hundred miles of riding the chain looks clean. This stuff does not leave any apparent residue or attract dirt or sling off all over the wheel, unlike using oil. After 6 months or so, if I hear noises coming from the chain, I might shoot it again at that time. Chain tensioning is infrequent.
O-ring / X-ring / Z-ring chains are low maintenance items.
O-ring / X-ring / Z-ring chains are low maintenance items.
07-06-2005, 07:57 AM
#8
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Squid
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Re: Chain Lube
The waxy lubes seem like they'd work well too, but I haven't tried them long term. It doesn't attract much dirt, covers well and thick, and stays in place. Seems like it would protect the links from rusting quite well, and protect the o-rings too.
Anything that protects the o-rings should work, anything that doesn't should be avoided, its all about the o-rings (sealing in the lube). Its like a car CV joint, once that rubber boot cracks open, the lube slings out, and the joint fails. Keep that boot from busting open and the joint lasts a very long time.
o-rings can be damaged by:
- drying out, cracking
- rusted links chewing them up
- dirt/grit chewing them up
IMHO stay away from tacky chain 'lubes', if you use gear oil clean your chain often, whatever you use make sure the above 3 are addressed.
Anything that protects the o-rings should work, anything that doesn't should be avoided, its all about the o-rings (sealing in the lube). Its like a car CV joint, once that rubber boot cracks open, the lube slings out, and the joint fails. Keep that boot from busting open and the joint lasts a very long time.
o-rings can be damaged by:
- drying out, cracking
- rusted links chewing them up
- dirt/grit chewing them up
IMHO stay away from tacky chain 'lubes', if you use gear oil clean your chain often, whatever you use make sure the above 3 are addressed.
07-06-2005, 08:48 PM
#9
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Re: Chain Lube
if i remember correctly, from my motocross days, i think i read something in a dirt rider or motocross action that said " tacky (waxy) lubes are best suited for off road use". which i would guess they mean a non o-ring chain. but who knows.... i've been out of the loop for awhile...
07-07-2005, 01:52 AM
#10
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Re: Chain Lube
80-90w Valvoline gear oil here. I figure if race teams use it, it's good enough for me. I get someone to paddle the bike forward while i dump the gear oil on the chain, put on a nitrile blue disposable glove and work the oil in/around the chain rollers, and let it sit overnight. Chain hasn't given me any problems at all to date, the last owner didn't keep up with it too well though 
(lots of chatter and chain slack when I bought it) Only problem is the first ride after the lube, it makes a hell of a mess on the tail fairing, rear wheel, swingarm, chain guard, and left exhaust pipe. Nothin like sitting at a red light with your bike smokin' like a chimney 8)
(lots of chatter and chain slack when I bought it) Only problem is the first ride after the lube, it makes a hell of a mess on the tail fairing, rear wheel, swingarm, chain guard, and left exhaust pipe. Nothin like sitting at a red light with your bike smokin' like a chimney 8)
07-07-2005, 08:48 AM
#11
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SuperBike
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Re: Chain Lube
GreyBeard, seems like you might be older than dirt 
, which means lots of experience, so my mind is open.
I've heard WD40 is a solvent & can dissolve the grease in your o-rings, but when you say 30,000 miles on a chain, then you have my attention.
How often do you lube it? Do you just spray it on? Where do you direct the spray? Do you ever clean your chain? How often to you like to adjust your chain?
I got fed up with the tacky/messy spray lubes & this year started using 90wt. gear oil. I just put on a surgical glove & put a some gear oil on a rag & just rotate the wheel, coating the rollers & side plates w/ a light amt. of oil. I don't put so much on there that it is dripping off. I do this every week or 2, usually right after returning from a ride. It only takes 2 minutes & I don't have to worry about cleaning a bunch of gummy crap off my chain, kickstand, chainguard, etc.
I'm going to see how this works as far as chain longevity. If I'm not happy I'll try the WD40 or that Honda HP spray lube that the other guy was talking about.
Steve
, which means lots of experience, so my mind is open.I've heard WD40 is a solvent & can dissolve the grease in your o-rings, but when you say 30,000 miles on a chain, then you have my attention.
How often do you lube it? Do you just spray it on? Where do you direct the spray? Do you ever clean your chain? How often to you like to adjust your chain?
I got fed up with the tacky/messy spray lubes & this year started using 90wt. gear oil. I just put on a surgical glove & put a some gear oil on a rag & just rotate the wheel, coating the rollers & side plates w/ a light amt. of oil. I don't put so much on there that it is dripping off. I do this every week or 2, usually right after returning from a ride. It only takes 2 minutes & I don't have to worry about cleaning a bunch of gummy crap off my chain, kickstand, chainguard, etc.
I'm going to see how this works as far as chain longevity. If I'm not happy I'll try the WD40 or that Honda HP spray lube that the other guy was talking about.
Steve
07-07-2005, 10:32 AM
#12
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Re: Chain Lube
Two rides
33K on a CBF original Chain
20k on VTR Original chain and still going
One Word
WD40
Nothing else in my garage, forget all that expensive chain lube crap.
All an o-ring chain needs is the outside coated to keep the noise down and the rust away. The lubrication is inside the chain.
33K on a CBF original Chain
20k on VTR Original chain and still going
One Word
WD40
Nothing else in my garage, forget all that expensive chain lube crap.
All an o-ring chain needs is the outside coated to keep the noise down and the rust away. The lubrication is inside the chain.
07-07-2005, 02:20 PM
#13
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Squid
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 48
Re: Chain Lube
WD 40, Water Displacement, 40th (and successful) attempt at formula, is basically Kerosine. It was developed to displace water from whatever its sprayed on, and to be viscous enough to stay put and continue to prevent water from penetrating. While its a solvent, its not a very volatile one (it doesn't evaporate very quickly). It is petroleum based.
So long as your o-rings are still in good shape when you start using it, it isn't going to get past them and start eating away the lube inside your chain.
So long as your o-rings are still in good shape when you start using it, it isn't going to get past them and start eating away the lube inside your chain.
07-07-2005, 04:35 PM
#14
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Squid
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Location: Pittsburgh, Pa.
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Re: Chain Lube
Steve,
I spray my chain every couple of hundred miles, cleaning the chain isn't really necessary. I read about using WD40 in a motorcycle magazine about 10 years ago and I've used nothing but since. Just look at the mileage Thumper has on his chains. Both your chain and sprocket are much cleaner as well. I can't remember the last time I adjusted my chain. If you start using it you will never buy another can of chain lube again. BTW, I'm not that old, 47 , but I have aquired a grey beard these last few years. James
I spray my chain every couple of hundred miles, cleaning the chain isn't really necessary. I read about using WD40 in a motorcycle magazine about 10 years ago and I've used nothing but since. Just look at the mileage Thumper has on his chains. Both your chain and sprocket are much cleaner as well. I can't remember the last time I adjusted my chain. If you start using it you will never buy another can of chain lube again. BTW, I'm not that old, 47 , but I have aquired a grey beard these last few years. James
07-08-2005, 11:36 AM
#16
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Squid
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Re: Chain Lube
Thank you Oppenheimer,
Many people don't realize an O-ring chain has internal lubrication; you don't need to spend more than a couple of dollars to maintain your chain properly. I've found adjustments to be few and far between as well.
Many people don't realize an O-ring chain has internal lubrication; you don't need to spend more than a couple of dollars to maintain your chain properly. I've found adjustments to be few and far between as well.
07-09-2005, 11:46 PM
#21
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SuperSport
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Re: Chain Lube
wd-40 has a chemical that is damaging to the non-metalic parts on a chain. its not the fix all miracle spray that people think. don't use it for just anything. your buddy might have damaged the bushings thereby causing the extra heat. too much metal-metal friction. in my experience, get the sloppiest, gewiest thickest CHAIN-LUBE you can find and slop it on. move the bike around, then leave it for a while. then, before you ride, wipe off your chain with a rag.
07-16-2005, 04:02 PM
#22
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You need to keep the 'O' rings wet with lube between the 'O' ring and the plates or the 'O' ring wears out and the internal grease dries out.
anything you put on to do that is good,
anything you put on a chain dosen't last long, it flings off or dries out, whether it's heavy or light viscosity.
If you shoot your chain with WD-40 it will instantly wet and lube between the 'O' rings and plates.
Wipe off the excess and your good for 200 miles
Reapply every 200 miles or whenever the 'O' rings look dry and you chain will last as long as anything short of running it in a bath of oil.
cut yourself a prop stick to put under the right side swingarm under the axle and shooting your chain and wiping will take about one minute every 200 miles.
I went from av of 10.K from a chain to 18.K on the last chain when I used nothing but WD-40.
I was worried that the WD-40 would penetrate the 'O' rings and dilute the factory grease, that wasn't a problem because the WD-40 (used from the begining) kept the 'O' rings clean and sealing the grease in, and everything else out.
Here's some pictures from before I switched to WD-40. Chain injecting,and including a chain autopsy
cause of death = dry links but before that, dry 'O' rings that wore out and failed to seal the grease in.
http://makeashorterlink.com/?J2B61217B
~Jeffers
anything you put on to do that is good,
anything you put on a chain dosen't last long, it flings off or dries out, whether it's heavy or light viscosity.
If you shoot your chain with WD-40 it will instantly wet and lube between the 'O' rings and plates.
Wipe off the excess and your good for 200 miles
Reapply every 200 miles or whenever the 'O' rings look dry and you chain will last as long as anything short of running it in a bath of oil.
cut yourself a prop stick to put under the right side swingarm under the axle and shooting your chain and wiping will take about one minute every 200 miles.
I went from av of 10.K from a chain to 18.K on the last chain when I used nothing but WD-40.
I was worried that the WD-40 would penetrate the 'O' rings and dilute the factory grease, that wasn't a problem because the WD-40 (used from the begining) kept the 'O' rings clean and sealing the grease in, and everything else out.
Here's some pictures from before I switched to WD-40. Chain injecting,and including a chain autopsy
cause of death = dry links but before that, dry 'O' rings that wore out and failed to seal the grease in.
http://makeashorterlink.com/?J2B61217B
~Jeffers
07-19-2005, 07:23 PM
#23
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Squid
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 43
Re: Chain Lube
I've tried the expensive no fly off chain lube and found it attracts dirt and debris with the quickness. I prefer synthetic 90wt gear oil. its cheap and works well, not to mention the shop manual reccomends gear oil. I guess it all comes down to personal preference. as long as you lube and clean it on a regular basis, your good. my 2 cents
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