Brake mod complete...but have ?
#31
cb21983,
check this guys setup...he is very pleased with it.
quote from Killer5280,
I'm the guy with the F4i calipers and master cylinder. I got the whole setup on eBay for 50-60 bucks. I did have to grind a little on the underside of the caliper to get it to clear the mounting bracket on the VTR fork. I very carefull ground a little at a time off the calipers until they would fit, making sure not to remove too much material from the caliper. I'm pretty happy with them; better brakes are available, but these can't be beat for the price, and stopping power and lever feel are both improved. I'm still using the stock F4i pads that came in the calipers I bought from eBay. I imagine braking will be a little better with aftermarket pads, although I have always been happy with the OEM sintered Honda pads.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=55
check this guys setup...he is very pleased with it.
quote from Killer5280,
I'm the guy with the F4i calipers and master cylinder. I got the whole setup on eBay for 50-60 bucks. I did have to grind a little on the underside of the caliper to get it to clear the mounting bracket on the VTR fork. I very carefull ground a little at a time off the calipers until they would fit, making sure not to remove too much material from the caliper. I'm pretty happy with them; better brakes are available, but these can't be beat for the price, and stopping power and lever feel are both improved. I'm still using the stock F4i pads that came in the calipers I bought from eBay. I imagine braking will be a little better with aftermarket pads, although I have always been happy with the OEM sintered Honda pads.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=55
#32
first test ride today
well I have powerfull brakes, but still think they are spongy. I looked at it for a while and I see that the 954 master cylinder has a pivit point further that the stock set up. So that would mean I have more leverage. Also I still have the stock lines......I know...I know...I should have change the lines to SS lines. But do you think I still have air in the lines? Every time I bleed the brakes....no bubbles. And the master shows no bubbles coming up in the res.
Maybe it's just new to me and they are fine. I need to compare to a simular set up.
Any thoughts?
Maybe it's just new to me and they are fine. I need to compare to a simular set up.
Any thoughts?
#33
I just put my calipers on and here's my thoughts on it.
I left the old pads in and didn't check them for crooked wear. well, the rotors show uneven contact after maybe 15 minutes around the 'hood. either the pads are worn at a slant or the calipers are cocked relative to my rotors. new pads on the way. uneven pad contact will cause flex somewhere which shows up at the lever as spongy feel.
the 'Hawk has a 14mm M/C piston and the GSXR has a 5/8" (15.875mm). this is probably a large enough difference to explain quite a bit of sponginess at the lever. a relatively smaller M/C results in more lever travel but more power. this means a comparable amount of braking power with less pressure at the lever.
I'm thinking I have the system bleed out and am actually causing flex when yanking on the lever in the garage. I have to ask myself 'how much lever pressure am I using while riding?' even with uneven pad contact the amount of braking is much better than the stock calipers. I have a M/C coming as well, don't tell my wife, and shall soon hopefully be doing unintentional stoppies like I should.
I left the old pads in and didn't check them for crooked wear. well, the rotors show uneven contact after maybe 15 minutes around the 'hood. either the pads are worn at a slant or the calipers are cocked relative to my rotors. new pads on the way. uneven pad contact will cause flex somewhere which shows up at the lever as spongy feel.
the 'Hawk has a 14mm M/C piston and the GSXR has a 5/8" (15.875mm). this is probably a large enough difference to explain quite a bit of sponginess at the lever. a relatively smaller M/C results in more lever travel but more power. this means a comparable amount of braking power with less pressure at the lever.
I'm thinking I have the system bleed out and am actually causing flex when yanking on the lever in the garage. I have to ask myself 'how much lever pressure am I using while riding?' even with uneven pad contact the amount of braking is much better than the stock calipers. I have a M/C coming as well, don't tell my wife, and shall soon hopefully be doing unintentional stoppies like I should.
#34
Birdoprey,
I put in new EBC HH pads and I think I am getting line flex do to the extra leverage. I could lock up the front with two fingers VERY EASY! I think when the pads brake in and I get some miles on the system....so little bubbles hiding can shake up to the top over time, I will rebleed again. I am going to get some lines when extra funds allow. Over all its been a great mod! I like powerful brakes.
I put in new EBC HH pads and I think I am getting line flex do to the extra leverage. I could lock up the front with two fingers VERY EASY! I think when the pads brake in and I get some miles on the system....so little bubbles hiding can shake up to the top over time, I will rebleed again. I am going to get some lines when extra funds allow. Over all its been a great mod! I like powerful brakes.
#35
how old are your lines? that has an effect.
some quick math shows the stock M/C is 11.81% smaller than the GSXR M/C. awhile back my Civic's M/C took a dump and I was forced to install a smaller piston size M/C since my car had rare factory brakes. it was 6.667% smaller and it resulted in quite a bit more pedal travel and the pedal felt real spongy when sitting still but you didn't notice when driving since you didn't have to push that hard to get the same results. my wife scared herself when she first drove it and said that the brakes were bad because of the extra pedal travel but then thought no, the brakes were way stronger since less pressure was required.
short answer; ain't nothing 'wrong' just different. I'll let you know what effect the GSXR M/C has.
some quick math shows the stock M/C is 11.81% smaller than the GSXR M/C. awhile back my Civic's M/C took a dump and I was forced to install a smaller piston size M/C since my car had rare factory brakes. it was 6.667% smaller and it resulted in quite a bit more pedal travel and the pedal felt real spongy when sitting still but you didn't notice when driving since you didn't have to push that hard to get the same results. my wife scared herself when she first drove it and said that the brakes were bad because of the extra pedal travel but then thought no, the brakes were way stronger since less pressure was required.
short answer; ain't nothing 'wrong' just different. I'll let you know what effect the GSXR M/C has.
#36
I am mad now!! I went to place my final bid on the F4i calipers and MC and made the rookie ebay mistake of not logging in well before the auction ended. With less than a min I went to bid and didn't get logged in until the auction was already over. NOT HAPPY!! They went for under $55
#37
I am mad now!! I went to place my final bid on the F4i calipers and MC and made the rookie ebay mistake of not logging in well before the auction ended. With less than a min I went to bid and didn't get logged in until the auction was already over. NOT HAPPY!! They went for under $55
bill
#40
http://www.snip.pl/en/
You give them your ebay user.id and password (BEWARE) and then give them the ITEM # that you want to bid on. How much you want to bid, and when. (last 5 seconds, last 10 seconds, etc).
It jumps on ebay, signs in as you, and bids that ammount just seconds before the auction closes. It will also notify you if your "snipe" end up being outbid before auction closes.
It even has some advanced features that are really cool. You can do 'group' shots. let's say there are 3 RC51 rear wheels on ebay. you want ONE of them, but not all three. You setup the group shot with the 3 item #'s and $50 bucks (or whatever you want to spend). It will then attempt to snipe all three auctions for you. If you Win #1, it won't bid on #2 or #3. if you miss #1, It will bid on #2 automatically. If you miss #2, It will bid on #3 for you. If you win #2, it won't bid on #3.
it's a great site. I've been using it for about 3 years now, and never had a problem with anyone doing unauthorized things with my ebay account.
You give them your ebay user.id and password (BEWARE) and then give them the ITEM # that you want to bid on. How much you want to bid, and when. (last 5 seconds, last 10 seconds, etc).
It jumps on ebay, signs in as you, and bids that ammount just seconds before the auction closes. It will also notify you if your "snipe" end up being outbid before auction closes.
It even has some advanced features that are really cool. You can do 'group' shots. let's say there are 3 RC51 rear wheels on ebay. you want ONE of them, but not all three. You setup the group shot with the 3 item #'s and $50 bucks (or whatever you want to spend). It will then attempt to snipe all three auctions for you. If you Win #1, it won't bid on #2 or #3. if you miss #1, It will bid on #2 automatically. If you miss #2, It will bid on #3 for you. If you win #2, it won't bid on #3.
it's a great site. I've been using it for about 3 years now, and never had a problem with anyone doing unauthorized things with my ebay account.
#42
I came in on this thread late, but here's what I have done to get air out of the brake lines with good results:
Take the master cylinder off the bar and set it up so that the cylinder is angled upward from the banjo to the reservoir and the reservoir is on top.
Push the piston(s) in on one or both calipers to force fluid back to the reservoir. It the flow is angled upward the bubble will naturally flow back to the reservoir.
Pump the brake lever to refill the caliper. Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir.
Take the master cylinder off the bar and set it up so that the cylinder is angled upward from the banjo to the reservoir and the reservoir is on top.
Push the piston(s) in on one or both calipers to force fluid back to the reservoir. It the flow is angled upward the bubble will naturally flow back to the reservoir.
Pump the brake lever to refill the caliper. Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir.
#44
#45
Sorry to bring up a dead thread but THANKS! I did F4i brakes tonight and could not get pressure after about 3k pumps and a dozen bleeds on each side. I bled the lines once at the MC after finding this thread and bingo! The search function rocks. For some reason, I didn't have to do this a couple years ago when I put the SS lines on the stock set-up, but whatever it worked perfectly this time.
Better lever feel, but gotta wait until tomorrow to ride.
Better lever feel, but gotta wait until tomorrow to ride.
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06-01-2008 07:04 PM