Bike wont run right sense CCT job HELP!
Bike wont run right sense CCT job HELP!
Well a friend and I were installing some APE's (as part of some spring maitanence) and we ran into some problems, and now my hawk barely runs.. Here is the timeline:
Day 1) We took the rear valve cover off and zip tied the chain, so the rear one went well. Then while installing the front cct (with out zip tieing the chain) we heard the 'click of doom.' In hopes it would still run (I have read that being off a few teeth will just cause a stumble in the rpm range). We started her up and heard clicking, so i imeadatly shut her off (maybe 15 clicks at the most).. To add insult to injury while taking off the 2 bolts that hold the front pair reeds in both bolts snaped off.. So we realized we would have to tear into the front head.
Day 2) Took off the plastics, left rad, oil cooler, ect.. We were 2 teeth off, and with some fighting got them to line up.. So we fixed the pair and bolted everything up. Gave the hawk a quick start, and seemed to run good, no clicking at all.. So now it was late and we decided to finish everthing the next day.
Day 3, today) I topped off the coolent and was going to take her for a quick ride before i drained the oil.. Now the main problem, the bike started well but did not want to accelerate and acted like it was running on one cylinder but both seemed to be running.. So after checking all the easy stuff and taking the rear valve cover off again to double check that timing, she still barely runs. The only thing i didnt do is put back in the old plugs, i changed them with the same kind and checked the gap before installing, so i doubt it would be that..
So what the hell is wrong?? The bike is still at my friends house, and he said he will check the compresion tommorow, but then we are out of ideas.. Please help!
Day 1) We took the rear valve cover off and zip tied the chain, so the rear one went well. Then while installing the front cct (with out zip tieing the chain) we heard the 'click of doom.' In hopes it would still run (I have read that being off a few teeth will just cause a stumble in the rpm range). We started her up and heard clicking, so i imeadatly shut her off (maybe 15 clicks at the most).. To add insult to injury while taking off the 2 bolts that hold the front pair reeds in both bolts snaped off.. So we realized we would have to tear into the front head.
Day 2) Took off the plastics, left rad, oil cooler, ect.. We were 2 teeth off, and with some fighting got them to line up.. So we fixed the pair and bolted everything up. Gave the hawk a quick start, and seemed to run good, no clicking at all.. So now it was late and we decided to finish everthing the next day.
Day 3, today) I topped off the coolent and was going to take her for a quick ride before i drained the oil.. Now the main problem, the bike started well but did not want to accelerate and acted like it was running on one cylinder but both seemed to be running.. So after checking all the easy stuff and taking the rear valve cover off again to double check that timing, she still barely runs. The only thing i didnt do is put back in the old plugs, i changed them with the same kind and checked the gap before installing, so i doubt it would be that..
So what the hell is wrong?? The bike is still at my friends house, and he said he will check the compresion tommorow, but then we are out of ideas.. Please help!
I am going through a very similar problem right now....
1. I am going through the timing again right now as the bike would not run on both cylinders.
2. cleaned carbs, synced before cct job, will have to redo
3. thought it ignition, so replaced coils, not the coils, since the bike fires off the crank, i believe this is why i was not getting good spark
4. new plugs, fresh oil.
5. I am still working on the timing as this may/may not still be your issue. I am 90% sure this is my problem.
sorry couldnt be more help, but timing may still be the issue. I know gbozio (sp?) and rcvtr are great help for this issue.
1. I am going through the timing again right now as the bike would not run on both cylinders.
2. cleaned carbs, synced before cct job, will have to redo
3. thought it ignition, so replaced coils, not the coils, since the bike fires off the crank, i believe this is why i was not getting good spark
4. new plugs, fresh oil.
5. I am still working on the timing as this may/may not still be your issue. I am 90% sure this is my problem.
sorry couldnt be more help, but timing may still be the issue. I know gbozio (sp?) and rcvtr are great help for this issue.
It was that damn PVLIR. Thanks Greg!!
Now i just need to turn up the idle a bit.. With my new pipes and new bmc filter she is idleing below 1k rpm (and doesnt realy wake up untill about 3,300) and stalled twice last night after getting off the freeway.. I know I need to jet her, but im gunna put that off untill next winter if i can.
I am just happy to have her running!!!!!
Now i just need to turn up the idle a bit.. With my new pipes and new bmc filter she is idleing below 1k rpm (and doesnt realy wake up untill about 3,300) and stalled twice last night after getting off the freeway.. I know I need to jet her, but im gunna put that off untill next winter if i can.
Bumping the idle to 1100-1200 should help a lot. Also, don't pull in the clutch for anything over about 5 seconds if you're over 30mph. Something about the black box or something makes almost all of them do that.
It's weird, mine did that briefly after my exhaust swap, then that went away and I can coast with the clutch in at any speed without it dying again. Really kind of a weird act some of them have.
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vermontzx6r
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May 9, 2009 12:50 PM






