BIKE DIED ON FREEWAY!
01-10-2011, 06:45 AM
#32
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Can't even realize i didn't catch that one yesterday that was a mainstay at my house with my dad when i was younger.... This bike really has my head fubar
01-10-2011, 11:06 AM
#34
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Still waiting on a buddy to come help me guys.. This one may take a minute to sort itself out. However, I've located a breathing replacement engine in case (and perhaps even if this one isn't) that I'll pick up when I figure this out better, (i.e. - lift and spin the rear wheel)... Going to paypal the guy the engine money today or early tomorrow and get working on picking it and everything that's coming with it up as it's a good distance away... If I have to put that one in, i think it would be better to do the build up of the 01 engine rather than the 98 donor that I'd be getting... Without trying to get ahead of myself as i don't even know if it's needed at this point, does a 98 swap directly into an 01?
01-10-2011, 11:33 AM
#35
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Yes, make sure the fuel tank is venting. I had a blocked vent tube that caused my bike to misfire, stall out and die just as you described. An easy way to check it is to open the gas cap (allows air into the tank) and try starting the bike.
01-10-2011, 11:42 AM
#36
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****, i really wish I could get the *** end of the thing in the air on my own so I could spin the wheel... What's wrong with trying to push the bike while in gear? Wouldn't that provide me the same indicators in terms of the noises that would or wouldn't be coming from the engine is something went wrong and it's not the furl system?
01-10-2011, 12:05 PM
#37
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So, if your equation includes having just filled your tank, this may be even more of and indication that it's not venting well.
I'm guessing that your motor is fine if you didn't hear any destructive noises coming from inside when it died...
01-10-2011, 12:11 PM
#38
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Just put $5 in a few times, I'd say three times total, but no, never heard any noise I thought to be bad, destructive, or catastrophic. It did feel like I ran out of gas and everything didn't just shut down as what's been described to me happens when an engine seizes... It's the CCT's that worry me but that may be for not? I don't want to take a gamble but I also don't feel like sitting here and doing nothing. if I go up there and roll it forward while it's in first gear or try to get the tire to move forward on my own just lifting the rear and I don't hear any noises am I correct that it's ok to try and start it up. Further, that if it does start up that it probably needs a full tune up before being ridden anywhere...
01-10-2011, 12:28 PM
#40
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CCT's make all kinds of metal noises when they go... when the chain skips timing, the valves start smashing into the heads and destruction ensues... so I'm guessing you're good... there have been one or two cases where the CCT's went and the owner caught it BEFORE the chain skipped, but the chances of that are way small.
Someone may be able to confirm this- it's a total guess on my part- but you may be able to see if the engine will turn over by rotating the crankshaft bolt. This is found on the left side of your engine case... There's a large alan headed plug right in the middle of the casing- you take that out and right inside is the bolt- it's a big one (like 17mm or something... can't remember right now). You crank that counter clockwise slowly and if there's no grinding, friction or really heavy resistance you should be good. There will be some resistance if you don't take your plugs out as the cylinders compress the air in the chambers...
Anyone think this is a bad idea?
Someone may be able to confirm this- it's a total guess on my part- but you may be able to see if the engine will turn over by rotating the crankshaft bolt. This is found on the left side of your engine case... There's a large alan headed plug right in the middle of the casing- you take that out and right inside is the bolt- it's a big one (like 17mm or something... can't remember right now). You crank that counter clockwise slowly and if there's no grinding, friction or really heavy resistance you should be good. There will be some resistance if you don't take your plugs out as the cylinders compress the air in the chambers...
Anyone think this is a bad idea?
01-10-2011, 12:31 PM
#41
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Edit: never mind.. I read the whole thread...
Last edited by 7moore7; 01-10-2011 at 12:35 PM.
01-10-2011, 12:58 PM
#42
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CCT's make all kinds of metal noises when they go... when the chain skips timing, the valves start smashing into the heads and destruction ensues... so I'm guessing you're good... there have been one or two cases where the CCT's went and the owner caught it BEFORE the chain skipped, but the chances of that are way small.
Someone may be able to confirm this- it's a total guess on my part- but you may be able to see if the engine will turn over by rotating the crankshaft bolt. This is found on the left side of your engine case... There's a large alan headed plug right in the middle of the casing- you take that out and right inside is the bolt- it's a big one (like 17mm or something... can't remember right now). You crank that counter clockwise slowly and if there's no grinding, friction or really heavy resistance you should be good. There will be some resistance if you don't take your plugs out as the cylinders compress the air in the chambers...
Anyone think this is a bad idea?
Someone may be able to confirm this- it's a total guess on my part- but you may be able to see if the engine will turn over by rotating the crankshaft bolt. This is found on the left side of your engine case... There's a large alan headed plug right in the middle of the casing- you take that out and right inside is the bolt- it's a big one (like 17mm or something... can't remember right now). You crank that counter clockwise slowly and if there's no grinding, friction or really heavy resistance you should be good. There will be some resistance if you don't take your plugs out as the cylinders compress the air in the chambers...
Anyone think this is a bad idea?
01-10-2011, 01:11 PM
#43
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So I went up there, no noise trying a couple things to get the rear spinning... Anyhow, I stuck the key in, pulled the choke and hit start a couple times... Didn't catch right away but no noises, then it caught and ran for about 10 seconds and died.... I know, download the manual, getting to that point. I'm going to go ahead and assume that the fuel theory is is even more on track now that we know the bike felt like it was running out of gas cause it actually was... So, replace the entire fuel system along with full tune up and keep riding?
01-10-2011, 01:17 PM
#44
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My way takes a few tools- maybe that's why he said it was easier that way?
01-10-2011, 01:22 PM
#47
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Yup, turned over a couple times now. As soon as it does it sounds like fuel is being not delivered in sufficient quantity... Then i try to give it gas with the throttle and it dies, did that one twice to confirm it...
01-10-2011, 01:29 PM
#50
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Walking the bike in gear will kind of work... It's not going to work in first gear... 6'th is probably the only gear that will let you move the engine even if it's spinning normally... It won't really let you "feel" what's happing near the same though...
But as a logical follow up question... You are supposed to work on that bike, right? no matter if the engine is siezed now or not?
So, get your *** in gear and go pick up a pit-stand... The cheapo kind will do, but the sturdier and easier to work with the better... It's preciuos little you can do without one... So you will need it at one point or another, no matter what facilities you get through school...
But as a logical follow up question... You are supposed to work on that bike, right? no matter if the engine is siezed now or not?
So, get your *** in gear and go pick up a pit-stand... The cheapo kind will do, but the sturdier and easier to work with the better... It's preciuos little you can do without one... So you will need it at one point or another, no matter what facilities you get through school...
Last edited by Tweety; 01-10-2011 at 01:56 PM.
01-10-2011, 01:34 PM
#51
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Walking the bike in gear will kind of work... It's not going to work in first gear... 6'th is probably the only gear that will let you move the engine even if it's spinning normally...
But as a logica follow up question... You are supposed to work on that bike, right? no matter if the engine is siezed now or not?
So, get your *** in gear and go pick up a pit-stand... The cheapo kind will do, but the sturdier and easier to work with the better... It's preciuos little you can do without one... So you will need it at one point or another, no matter what facilities you get through school...
But as a logica follow up question... You are supposed to work on that bike, right? no matter if the engine is siezed now or not?
So, get your *** in gear and go pick up a pit-stand... The cheapo kind will do, but the sturdier and easier to work with the better... It's preciuos little you can do without one... So you will need it at one point or another, no matter what facilities you get through school...
Hey tweety man... Good to see ya.... As you may have seen it seems to not have blown a motor, seems to be a fuel supply issue as it starts but then dies because of what seems like a lack of fuel. Also, when I give it throttle to prevent it from dying, it dies....
Other than that, yes, i have to get a stand for it, waiting for a mishap to clear up with my cc company as they're holding some funds they shouldn't have due to a wrong adddress on file... Anyhow, as soon as they release the funds back to me, or take the hold off the funds rather, then that's one of the first things I'm going to get in terms of items needed to work on the bike. I assumed at school I'll also be presented with a best case for a starter set of tools, maybe you have some ideas on that one too? Anyhow, at this point it seems to be a fuel issue, really glad the engine didn't seize on me and scared me into doing the cct's as one of the first things I do aside from get it running again...
01-10-2011, 02:01 PM
#54
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Downloading the manual to find out how to do that... Don't even have a screw driver right now... Making a trip to the hardware store to start my tool collection once I get a parts list for the issue at hand and get that (maybe) ordered tonight if possible.... if you guys have suggestions besides ratchets, crescent wrenches, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, and rear stand in terms of tools to get that will be useful for the task at hand but also in the future as I get into class and the bike...
01-10-2011, 02:04 PM
#55
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Here's what the trouble shooting page says for my symptoms.....
Engine stalls, hard start, rough idle-
-Restricted Fuel Line
-Fuel mixture too rich/lean
-Contaminated/deteriorated fuel - This one can be ruled out me thinks?
-Intake Air Leak
-Maladjusted idle Speed
-maladjusted Pilot screw
-restricted breather tube
-Clogged air cleaner
-Clogged slow circuit
-Starting enrichment valve open
-Faulty EVAP control system (CA only, I'm in CA)
-Faulty ignition system
-
Engine stalls, hard start, rough idle-
-Restricted Fuel Line
-Fuel mixture too rich/lean
-Contaminated/deteriorated fuel - This one can be ruled out me thinks?
-Intake Air Leak
-Maladjusted idle Speed
-maladjusted Pilot screw
-restricted breather tube
-Clogged air cleaner
-Clogged slow circuit
-Starting enrichment valve open
-Faulty EVAP control system (CA only, I'm in CA)
-Faulty ignition system
-
Last edited by SuperBlink; 01-10-2011 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Didn't copy and paste too nicely.....
01-10-2011, 02:17 PM
#56
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Its really handy to have a bit driver with alan bits as well. And I really like the alan wrenches that come in the handle and fold out- you can put a bit more pressure on them and there's less chance of losing individual pieces.
Grab some WD-40 if you don't have any- it's useful to clean/protect/loosen all of your external pieces. Shop rags are nice to have around too (read: old cotton tee shirts if you're into saving money). Blue thread locker too; On these V-twins things like to vibrate loose
Grab some WD-40 if you don't have any- it's useful to clean/protect/loosen all of your external pieces. Shop rags are nice to have around too (read: old cotton tee shirts if you're into saving money). Blue thread locker too; On these V-twins things like to vibrate loose
01-10-2011, 02:34 PM
#57
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You can probably rule out these as well:
-Fuel mixture too rich/lean
...This would have given you problems before
-Maladjusted idle Speed
...wouldn't die on the highway if this was the case
-maladjusted Pilot screw
...again, if it was running before, probably not this
-restricted breather tube
...probably not this, opening the filler cap would have bypassed it
-Clogged air cleaner
...I don't know that this is a common issue with this bike, and it wouldn't happen suddenly
-Fuel mixture too rich/lean
...This would have given you problems before
-Maladjusted idle Speed
...wouldn't die on the highway if this was the case
-maladjusted Pilot screw
...again, if it was running before, probably not this
-restricted breather tube
...probably not this, opening the filler cap would have bypassed it
-Clogged air cleaner
...I don't know that this is a common issue with this bike, and it wouldn't happen suddenly
01-10-2011, 02:42 PM
#58
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Engine stalls, hard start, rough idle-
-Restricted Fuel Line
-Intake Air Leak
-Clogged slow circuit
-Starting enrichment valve open
-Faulty EVAP control system (CA only, I'm in CA)
-Faulty ignition system
So this is what we're left with... Anyone care to chime in on where to begin?
-Restricted Fuel Line
-Intake Air Leak
-Clogged slow circuit
-Starting enrichment valve open
-Faulty EVAP control system (CA only, I'm in CA)
-Faulty ignition system
So this is what we're left with... Anyone care to chime in on where to begin?
