Hey Wolverine + All,
Where & what are you tying into for power?
I assume this is the power socket kit you sourced:
Cigarette Socket Kit 24" (10 Amp) - Powerlet Products

Cheers,
James

 

I think I paid $2 shipped for mine. Here is one with blade connectors

Waterproof 12V 24V Outlet Power Socket Car Motorcycle Cigarette Lighter Plug | eBay

Here is one with leads. 12V 120W Car Motorcycle motorbike Cigarette Lighter Power Outlet Socket Plug | eBay

The expensive ones are from China anyway.

Or you can use a 12 volt extension cord and cut off one end. That is what I did.

 

Yep, that's it. Powerlet is high quality stuff, along the same lines as the Eastern Beaver kits. I ran the 2 pole quick disconnect to a convenient spot so that I can easily connect my Battery Tender during the off season, it uses the exact same connector. Killed 2 birds with one stone so to speak.

 

Thanks! But again, I'm assuming you fed this & connected it directly to the battery?

 

Yup!

 

I ran mine through a secondary fuse block that I use to power all my accessories. I also use the 12 volt outlet to plug in my charger overnight. Just converted the sae plug off the charger into a male 12 volt plug.

 

I would not run direct to the battery without routing through a relay that is activated by an ignition "on" circuit. My power socket is permanently mounted and also switched so I can tun it on and off with the ignition on, this way it is easy to have it run on battery power without having to take it out of the cradle to slide the on switch on the GPS. Obviously, power to the socket should be fused. My RD, as I said is also hard wired, fused and powered off the back of the instruments. I also have 2 USB power outlets. One in the rear in my hard top case, and another mid-ship. Good to have to charge cell phones and my Scala Rider Q3 (which can be charged when operating). I also have a 2-pin SAE power plug direct to the battery (un-fused) that my Antigravity Batteries PPS XP-1 connects to to jump start the engine. This plug also connects to the Battery Tender (BT) only in a pinch and I can be connected to the BT USB power socket, BT volt meter and BT cigarette power socket. However, for normal battery charging, I have a fused 2.5 x 12 mm coax jack that connects to the battery and an adapter cable to the Battery Tender. This coax jack also can power my thermostat for my heated vest as well as the mini tire air pump (I made) and dual cigarette lighter power sockets.

BTW, I also have a Flight Dynamics LED bar graph volt meter located on the left fairing "flat" connected to the battery to monitor system voltage, as I also have custom twin 50w driving lights (mounted to tubes projected out from the fairing nostrils) that I'm converting to 6 or 8 watt LED cannons.

 

The coaxial DC power plugs and jacks I'm referring to are much more efficient, compact and wear resistant. The size I use is IEC 60130-10:1971 Type A: 5.5 mm OD, 2.5 mm ID (without optional screw lock). These are readily available including already connected to 2-wire insulated 18 gauge leads.

 

Skokie that is one heck of a setup. Where are you talking about with the relay and why?

I like the idea of a switch to the outlet, I only didnt do that since I was concerned about a secondary point of failure (if that switch fails on the road you lose power). I just leave my dash outlet as full time as well as the cig plug/usb charger in the givi top case. (I want to be able to charge a phone in the givi whether riding or not.

I have my headlight high beam on a switch to save battery power in heavy traffic. I believe it has saved me in long stints in hot traffic with fan on constantly.

 

Turning off your headlight in traffic IMO is a BAD idea safety wise! I run a headlight modulator on the high beam circuit (an infrared sensor keeps the modulator from activating at night and in tunnels). If your charging system and/or battery cannot handle the fan running in traffic with the headlight and brake light on, you have a problem with the system. I higher amperage demand on your charging system is actually a good thing because the voltage regulator/rectifier does not need to work so hard and get nearly as hot (excessive heat is a common cause of VRR failures).

 

Actually, I agree with you on the headlight thing but if that switch fails I still have lowbeam which is not switched. I found there are many times its nice to not have the headlight on burning power. Its mostly an emergency thing if I desperately need to get home by saving power. I have an LED 3rd eye which is brighter than stock.

I don't ride without a headlight on but there are times when its nice to not have it on (turning on ignition when doing work on bike, etc).

 

What would you recommend to wire it to, to have it only power the outlet with the ignition?
Whats the best thing to tie into? head light, directional?

 

I think it should be unswitched, only because I have needed mine to run the gps or charge my fone and didn't want to have to leave the ignition on.

If you want switched I think the 3rd eye light is the easiest place to get power.

Mine is run right from the battery with a fuse block in between

 

I agree w smokin, I do/did not want mine on a switched circuit and it goes directly to the battery w/ a fuse.

 

Battery > Fuse > Switch > relay > charger > Phone

thats how i have done it
the usb chargers will draw current so u need to switch them off some how so i used a single pole single throw toggle switch and turn it on if i need it.

 

Yeah i bought one of these: Bike master Dual USB port plug/charger.
Bikemaster Dual USB Port Plug Charger TC 6613WU SAE Socket w Brkt BM 152232 | eBay
I figured the USB would be easier for both cell & GPS. It is back-lit with a blue LED so people have complained about their battery's draining. So i deff want to do either a switch system or hook it upto something controlled via ignition to ensure i can kill it when required.