Superhaw

I have a 98 with several mods, its in good shape as far as i can tell, I'm the third owner of two years.

First question: i've had the same oil (mobil 1) in it from last season, havent gone over 2000 miles, I shouldnt have to replace it this season yet right?

I hope it starts up fine this spring, it did last year, started right up. I filled the tank before leaving it for the winter.

I'm taking it from CNY to MA, a 5 hour trip. Any major advice, precautions?
any spare parts you think i might want to keep in mind or check on before I leave?

To my knowledge the bike is good to go as far as fluid levels and general maintenance, brake pads front and rear are going to be replaced first.

I'm also putting a new front tire on. A shinko 009 Raven most likely due to the cost ($75)

I was wandering since I am coming up to take it to NY could I put sand paper to tire to take some of the wax off to help break them in? It only makes sense, I wouldn't go too rough, I just don't want to be in a ramp on the highway worry about the coating. Common sense led me to think i could shed some of it to help ease my conscious, I not a knee dragger.


Any advice is greatly appreciated, I had an old account on here last year your good folk, thanks again..

Wicky

Greetings

Oil should still be fine and a long trip should evaporate any winter moisture, but it doesn't cost much for an oil & filter change.

Have you replaced CCTs with manuals? and the standard for that age unfinned R/R 'kettle boiler' with a later finned version/upgraded one.

Sandpapering hard tyres isn't quite the way to go - Tyres are run in by heating up/heat cycling (that doesn't mean putting a blow torch to 'em!). Just take it easy for the first tankful /hundred miles or so i.e don't lean to far, avoid heavy braking and pray it isn't raining!). Try not to mismatch tyres and getting cheap tyres can be a false economy as the contact patch is all that's keeping your **** from the terra firma.

Check chain & sprocket condition, tension and that it is lubed up. And consider getting recovery insurance (do you have that in the US?) if you haven't got anyone on call with a car & trailer/van if you unfortunately did breakdown or sumfink. Importantly make sure you fill her up regularly (at least every 80 miles or so) and carry a small external reserve can of gas - just in case...

7moore7

Yep, you may want to replace that R/R if you can. Last thing you want is for it to go out 3 hours from home.

Superhaw

Okay, in response to the oil, I think I'll be fine on my judgement there, thanks.

Tires, I was thinking of the shinko, I have the Shino 009 in the rear relatively new; 2000 miles at the most. but the Bridestone Battlax Bt-45 is only $20 more and sounds better designed.

There is a an Ape CCT on there, i assume it's aftermarket because of it's red color. The guy before the last owner apparntley took very well care of the bike, taking the enging apart every winter to check the valves or something, not too sure.

I can definetly make sure it's not raining the day I leave, and riding them for 50-100 miles after changing shouldn't be a problem before I go for the trip.

I thought about bringing a fuel resevior, very good idea, thanks, my fuel light either doesnt light up bright enough or is broken.

I found a thread concerning the R/R, without much information as to what it actually is, other somekind of Relay? I don't need to know it's function as much as where it is on my bike and check its condition and if it's aftermarket or not already, the bike had 42,000+ miles when I got it. And probably 6-8 brand stickers under the seat indicating aftermarket parts that the stickers came with.

This quote I have a question about(Installing a R/R - SuperHawk Forum):

"You should NOT wire this as I have, each and every one of the couple of hundred DRZ's, VTR's, VFR's and other motorcycles I've done direct batter to R/R wiring set ups is subject to catastrophic failure if the positive charge wire insulation is compromised and the wire grounds out..... As I do not install a fuse... have not in all the years I've done this....and never had one fail... your mileage may very.. if your concerned, install a fuse. But understand it is another failure point, another chance for corrosion to build up, resistance to be caused......"


What I'm wandering is would it be a good idea to have a motorcycle shop do it? assuming it needs to be done, and I'm not bad with electronics and the knowledge of such things, it should be any easy install yeah?

What's the mileage on such a repair, assuming i went now 46k without changing it? should I do it twice to be safe? I've heard of people having something blow out on long trips, something that they could keep under the seat, R/R does sound familiar in that regard.

It looks like a simple crimp and solder job, just hooking up the positive, begative and ground. According to that post, I should do this:

"Add to that, some new marine grade wiring from the R/R direct to the battery (more on that later) and one additional ground from the R/R and you have a very robust system that charges at peak voltage, does not over heat the R/R, fits in the stock location, uses common parts... "

The more on that later he just goes on to explain how good quality the marine wire is and where to order etc...


The next paragraph is the one I first quoted regarding not putting a fuse in due to whatever reason he says, and he's never had a problem and a fuse would actually complicate the system?

How trusty is that, though it probably is very good advice, I can't afford to go outside the standard cause I'm new to all this, basically my only concern is not having a fuse and he says if the wire insulation wears and the ground wears than it lead to catastrophic failure.

Can i just skip all this extra and do it the normal way? if there is one.

And finally, where do I check the location of the R/R? under the seat near the fuses?




Thanks for reading that novel, I wont have many questions after this I hope.

Superhaw

My bike is NY right now, I'm in Mass. I looked at this page that has an R1 Regulator Rectifier, and to be honest it looks familiar to me, maybe the guy put one on there.

Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification

7moore7

R/R= Regulator/Rectifier

Keep the fuse... I've never heard of removing it for any reason... it's in there to protect all of your electronics.

The R/R converts the AC from your stator to DC electricity that your electronics can all use (that's the rectifier part). It also regulates how much voltage goes into the system. If it malfunctions, either it stops converting or, even worse, stops regulating and throws way too many volts at your system and burns it up. I'm obviously using very precise electronics terms here, Tweety would be proud!

It's a wear item, older technology and sub-par wiring make it wear faster. New MOSFET units are much more robust and easy to wire it. If you even have basic electronics skills you can easily swap one out. It's in the tail of your bike on the right side bolted to the frame. Yours could have cooling fins on it (somewhat newer OEM one, still pretty crappy unit) or is a solid block (destined for failure).

7moore7

That big finned unit is a very good one (not a MOSFET, but much better than stock). The small biscuit is stock. You can see why it could burn out....

If he did CCT's, there's a good chance he swapped out the R/R as well.

Superhaw

I typed in MOSFET R/R into search and got this eastern beaver site. R/R Connectors
This is right under the title on the site, I dont know if I'll even have to worry about it though, because from what I've read and what you, 7moore7 just told me, it seems like kamikaze not to have replaced the stock RR past a few years, let alone ten or so. [bike sat on shop floor for two years]

" Many people go directly to battery as my complete kit does. This bypasses the stock 30A fuse and eliminates the connector usually found between the R/R and the 30A fusebox."


I'll have to wait to check it out, but the R1 lookes familiar to me, so hopefully I'm right.


Thanks for everything.


I guess one last question, how much oil is used for oil change, 3.5 quarts?


How should I check the sprockets? I don't want to check the gearcase b/c disassembling that would be too much trouble, the rear sprocket shouldn't have shark fins, should be toothy and close to pictures of sprocket. DUH. Okay.

As far as the chain, there's n real way to check it right? and what should I lube it with? is Lithium grease too much, improper to use, or should I get Silicone spray? Or go with the moron's choice of "Chain lube spray" that I'm sure the moto shop has for ten bucks. Lithium would probably build up whereas silicone would stay on but water would clean it right off.

I've adjusted the tension on my 92 750 Katana a couple years ago.

The chain should not be too loose and not too tight, Obviously, right?



that's it for questions.

also any tips for checking the oil level, standing it up right myself while bending down is usually OK, and that's how you check it right, standing the bike straight in riding position?
I could have someone hold it while i check.

7moore7

Yep, I kind of just squat while holding the front brake and lean it back. 4 quarts if I remember right.

aja

When checking the oil I sometimes don't see any oil in the sight glass. I have to start it up to get the oil moving for a minute then I can see it.

The r/r is located on the right side of the subframe under the tail fairing. For simplicity and to save a headache, ignore all of those instructions to wire one up.

Get a suitable r/r that can swap (there is a thread here somewhere that lists the known replacements). Some (like the newer oem units) can plug in directly. If you get one that the oem plug fits into, that is great also. You may have to switch some wires around in the plug, but that's just moving their position. If you get one that the plug doesn't fit into you can use connectors and ditch the plug, but be sure to seal the connections up good.

Superhaw

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when the time comes. Like I said the bike is NY and I'm in MA, I'm taking a ride up there and riding the beast back.

And info how to treat the chain though? what to lube it with?

aja

Just chain lube. A can won't be more than $10 for high end. You should have about an inch of play in the chain.

7moore7

Note entirely true... First off, wiring one is relatively easy.. not super fast but under an hour job if you plan ahead. Hardly a headache. Second off, no plug in ones that I know of come close to the quality of a MOSFET unit.

A new finned R/R that plugs in will work better than an old one, but you're going to be paying for one anyway, might as well get a good one!

It's 5 wires, three of which you can't even put in the wrong order

But in a pinch, an OEM will do...

ascothawk

The Bridgestone BT45 is a bias ply tire,not a radial. If you have an older bike that takes bias ply tires they work great.I've been thru 3 sets on my 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot.

Wicky

Also you might want to download the PDF Honda VTR1000F Superhawk Service Manual from the workshop section as it'll help answer a few of your questions.

Superhaw

So which is better to have on 98 superhawk?

It seems like a fine tire to get, over the 009 shinko's.

superhawk22

Do NOT, I will say again, do NOT mix bias ply and radial tires!!!!!!!! Was that strong enough.

Superhaw

Gee thanks buddy



Are you saying that because what I mentioned about having a 009 raven Shinko for my rear tire?

Because This website doesnt indicate bias ply or radial.

Superhaw

Oops! I'm sorry, I just checked, duh, the call the 009 Raven Rear tire a 'high performance radial'

..my bad.

I don't need any more advice, If the time comes where I need to change my R/R I've got enough information and guides on here.

thankkkkkkkkks yall

superhawk22

sorry if my post was harsh just thinking of your safety. get the raven may not be the best tire in the world but not the worst either.

Superhaw

No problem I know people here must get sick of annoying 'newbs'

I'm definetly thinking the raven. and EBC-HH brake pads. and cleaning and lubing the chain.

superhawk22

No not at all, we were all newbs at one time I was just trying to keep you from making what could've been literary a fatal mistake.

Superhaw

Yeah I appreciate it alot, I would've bought the battlax with out knowing better, getting the raven.

thanks your awesome, honda civic forums suuuuuck compared to this one.

smokinjoe73

Bring a plug kit, pressure guage and rain gear.

You can definitely sandpaper the tire (coarser is better) and a spray of brake cleaner and a paper towel will help too. Its common racetrack prep and I do it to all my road tires too.

Dont forget to check pressure often.

RainX you visor and bring lens cleaner and bounty(brand) in a ziplock.