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HELP..Asphalting a drive way?

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Old 09-07-2009, 09:54 AM
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HELP..Asphalting a drive way?

Looking to buy a house, but it has a crushed rock driveway....

Having never done this type of work, or had it done before.. I need some info from someone other then the guy that’s getting paid..
Anyone here do this for a living? Subcontractor or contractor? Road crew? Had it done at your house?
Job is in Texas, residential house, no access restrictions to equipment
Have a 10 wide driveway 300 yards long, covered in crushed rock. We want to have it paved. Local company quoted $12,000 to do the drive way.
Scrape off some of the rock and dirt
Lay 4” of “road bed”
And then lay the Asphalting 12’ wide down to the garage , where there is a 20’ wide left hand turn to the garage cement pad.

Paver has said he can cut $4.5k off the cost by not doing the road bed… What does that mean in real terms?? Less wear and longevity? Uneven surface?
$12K for the job as described.. is that a fair going rate?
*** is road bed?
End state is a hard surface drive way, all weather that will not chew up the tires of my street bikes and mustang and toy hauler. As well as lowering the dust level around the house. Most of the 10 acres are full of trees and grass… if we pave the drive way that will really cut down on the dust.

Thanks in advance to all that can add some advice.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:23 AM
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I have no idea on labour costs on your side of the pond so I'm not commenting on cost...

But the "road bed" isn't something I would skimp on... It's just what you said... Smoothes out the surface under the asphalt, makes sure it's all uniformly packed and won't move... If what is underneath moves you get dips and worst case cracks...

Now living in Texas I wouldn't imagine you get frost much... But around here we regularily have the winter and cold tear up roads and driveways creating cracks and dips... But still... Don't skimp on that... It will most likely cost you in the end...
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:27 AM
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Make sure the asphalt thickness is specified and adhered to. My thinspots are wearing through... :-(
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LineArrayNut
Make sure the asphalt thickness is specified and adhered to. My thinspots are wearing through... :-(
Thanks .. I was told 2-3 inches over the 4 inches of road base... this is just one of the "facts" I'm trying to check out. I MOD on three boards, two motorcycle and a CZ75 board. I figured on one of them,, someone would do this stuff for a living...
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:22 PM
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i had mine done in sept 2005. $9500cad. 200' long, starts at 25' wide and widens out to about 50'. huge left curve and up hill. i think 9500 was a pretty good deal. they put it on thick too. some spots around theedge it's 8-10" thick. i wasn't there when they did the job so i don't know how thick it is in the middle of the driveway. i've had good luck and don't regret it at all. snowblowing is easier, dust gone, gravel coming in house thing of the past, cleaning vehicles better, no more rain erosion(steep hill), looks better, smoother, safer on bikes(steep hill + gravel + bike= not good), etc...
there is a great view of my driveway on www.bing.com maps, bird's eye view, more exciting to me than you guys!
as for road bed, i don't know what that means. i think mine is just one layer of all the same stuff.
good base is important.
my neighbor had his done and it didn't turn out as nice. he got an outfit with one of the best reputations too.
what about chip seal? cheaper and should keep dust down.
here's my question: is sealing a good idea??? i've decided against it and will prob stick to my decision but i still wonder.
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:13 PM
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Glad to hear that things might be moving forward for you and the family.

Now for the business.

We don't call it road bed - we call it road base. In Central Texas it's made from ground up or crushed limestone. When properly wetted and packed this **** is like concrete itself.

However, exposed to the elements it degrades and washes out or is pushed out by wheeled traffic.

Think ahead about drainage. Install some major tubes to keep the water from blowing over your asphalt and through your road base.

Imagine asphalt as an "unhard" surface. It's an oil-impregnated semi-solid to be exact. Because of this the "liquid" part of the surface is subject to pressure from constant wheeled traffic. To minimize this the surface needs to be massaged like a biscuit. It needs to be worked to keep the liquids moving around in a stable fashion over the roadbase.

This may affect your width dimensions but it's all about longevity.

The frosting on the cake is what makes a thirty-year driveway possible. Edge control, whether it be a concrete ribbon or a concourse of 8" Limestone block - if you can find it - $10 - 15 per foot. Concrete at maybe $5.

I got a friend that has a HydraPac in your vic.

Good news, good news. Godspeed!
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Old 09-07-2009, 03:17 PM
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sealing IMNSHO is BS. Save the money and concrete it...
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:46 PM
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did you just suggest concreting 900 feet? let me do some quick maths.... thats 4320 cubic feet ... so thatss 480 yards.... find out what a yard costs near you and you can rule that out if you did it by bags you would need 6500 bags 80lb bags. I would go the bag route if i were you. and i would mix it by hand. but on a serious note, you need the road bed. The rocks in the driveway will move way to much even if they are just 3/4" anmd have been there a while. I paid $7k for a driveway this year and that was the middle of the road for price. Its 250 feet long. get a few prices. You will notice they are pretty close
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:46 AM
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LOL, read the post carefully... I was speaking only as to the efficacy and value of SEALING...
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