CentralCoaster

There's rumors that they're trying to require motorcycles to be smogged. I just wanted to show you the mess it can take to get a car smogged here in CA. Basically, car computers are NOT your friend. I'm sure the new bikes are just as capable of causing this sort of headache...


I'm trying to get my g/f's 2001 Nissan to pass smog. She took it in with the check engine light on, they failed her (duh) but it passed the sniffer test fine. She paid the registration, they gave her a 1-day pass, but she can't get her tags until it passes smog. Without tags it is illegal to drive or park it on public roads or even in a driveway. She's gotten 3 tickets this week for just that. They aren't fix-it tickets either.

So I fixed the car, and reset the check engine light, but before it can pass smog I have to drive it numerous times in a variety of conditions so the computer can perform 8 self-diagnosis tests. (Yet the car can't legally be driven on public roads.)

Here's the driving procedure I have to acheive without getting ticketed again. It's also got some insane chart on there about how fast I have to go, up hills, for how long, coasting, bla bla, bla... If you lived in a flat state, you'd never get the car to operate in these parameters!

As part of an enhanced emissions test for Inspection & Maintenance (I/M), certain states require the status of
System Readiness Test (SRT) be used to indicate whether the ECM has completed self-diagnosis of major emission systems and components.
Completion must be verified in order for the emissions inspection to proceed.
In most cases the ECM will automatically complete its self-diagnosis cycle during normal usage, and the SRT
status will indicate “CMPLT” for each application system.
Occasionally, certain portions of the self-diagnostic test may not be completed as a result of the customer’s
normal driving pattern; the SRT will indicate “INCMP” for these items.

Pattern 1:

The engine is started at the engine coolant temperature of −10 to 35°C (14 to 95°F)
(where the voltage between the ECM terminals 70 and ground is 3.0 - 4.3V).

The engine must be operated at idle speed until the engine coolant temperature is greater than 70°C
(158°F) (where the voltage between the ECM terminals 70 and ground is lower than 1.4V).

The engine is started at the fuel tank temperature of warmer than 0°C (32°F) (where the voltage
between the ECM terminal 82 and ground is less than 4.1V).
Pattern 2:

When steady-state driving is performed again even after it is interrupted, each diagnosis can be conducted.
In this case, the time required for diagnosis may be extended.
Pattern 3:

The driving pattern outlined in *2 must be repeated at least 3 times.
Pattern 4:

Tests are performed after the engine has been operated for at least 17 minutes.

The accelerator pedal must be held very steady during steady-state driving.

If the accelerator pedal is moved, the test must be conducted all over again.
*1: Depress the accelerator pedal until vehicle speed is 90 km/h (56 MPH), then release the accelerator pedal
and keep it released for more than 10 seconds. Depress the accelerator pedal until vehicle speed is 90 km/h
(56 MPH) again.
*2: Operate the vehicle in the following driving pattern.
1) Decelerate vehicle to 0 km/h (0 MPH) and let engine idle.
2) Repeat driving pattern shown below at least 10 times.

During acceleration, hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible.
3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the EGR system SRT is set.
*3: Checking the vehicle speed with GST is advised.

Suggested Transmission Gear Position for A/T Models
Set the selector lever in the “D” position with the overdrive switch turned ON.

Shown below are suggested vehicle speeds for shifting into a higher gear. These suggestions relate to fuel
economy and vehicle performance. Actual upshift speeds will vary according to road conditions, the weather
and individual driving habits.

For normal acceleration in low altitude
areas
[less than 1,219 m (4,000 ft)]:
For quick acceleration in low altitude areas and high
altitude areas
[over 1,219 m (4,000 ft)]:
Gear change
ACCEL shift point
km/h (MPH)
km/h (MPH)
1st to 2nd 24 (15) 25 (15)
2nd to 3rd 40 (25) 40 (25)
3rd to 4th 65 (40) 65 (40)
4th to 5th 75 (45) 75 (45)

Suggested Maximum Speed in Each Gear
Downshift to a lower gear if the engine is not running smoothly, or if you need to accelerate.
Do not exceed the maximum suggested speed (shown below) in any gear. For level road driving, use the
highest gear suggested for that speed. Always observe posted speed limits and drive according to the road
conditions to ensure safe operation. Do not over-rev the engine when shifting to a lower gear as it may cause
engine damage or loss of vehicle control.

Gear km/h (MPH)
1st 48 (30)
2nd 84 (52)
3rd 128 (80)
4th —
5th —

VTRsurfer

That's called the OBDII Drive Cycle. It varies slightly from car to car. A day or two of normal driving, including freeway driving is usually enough to reset the "monitors".

It's a good idea to get the Smog Check several weeks before the registration expires to avoid your situation. The check engine light or MIL (maintenance indicator light) indicates a possible problem that could affect emissions, and is an automatic fail.

If you've ever driven behind one of the beaters from south of the border, choke, you know why we need smog checks. Or if you lived in California in the '60s when the air around LA could be cut with a knife.

As for motorcycles, the BAR has been trying to figure out how to do an effective test for years, same with diesels...don't hold your breath. Leaf blowers pollute much more than motorcycles anyway.

CentralCoaster

Yeah, I got pissed when she said she tried to smog it without asking me, because I knew she had a CEL/MIL beforehand. That was $50 wasted. Another $35 x3 for tickets. And 2 trips to the DMV.

The DMV will give you a red tag that is good for 60 days, BUT you have to ask for it. They only gave her a 1-day pass. When she went back to try to get the red tag, the 60-days had already gone by, so that's not an option anymore. I fixed her bike up for her (keys were lost) so at least she can ride that in the meantime instead of driving my restored '69 chevy pickup around the ghetto.

CentralCoaster

I had to stop driving my '85 LTD because the smog techs wouldn't pass it because the CEL wouldn't come on with key on.

A few years later I discovered that the "check engine" light on that model was actually just a dummy light for oil pressure and coolant temp. But as part of the factory-installed Police Package, guages were installed and the oil and coolant switches were replaced with guage sending units, and the "check engine" light isn't wired to anything at all, straight off the factory floor.

So yeah, the car was functioning exactly as it did off the assembly line in '85, passed the sniff test, but can't be driven because it can't pass smog. But now it's been rotting in a field for 5 years and the coolant in the motor froze, so it doesn't really matter now.

The only way I'll ever buy a car newer than 1975 now, is if I move out of CA, or if it's a diesel, because diesels aren't smogged.

I'd like to get a 84/85 Toyota minitruck diesel, then do an engine swap. Maybe a turbo 3.8L.