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GEN III UPDATE 13 MAY 19 Superhawk MOSFET RR Kit 153.00
Gen III Plug and play ready to install Superhawk MOSFET RR Kit FH020 (50 amp rated, and the VTR Alt output is MAX of 23.3amps @12VDC)
$153.00 shipped Priority mail in the US.
Easy, fast and complete, not a general fit kit that will have excess wiring you have to pile up someplace, but a kit that is designed to fit the Honda Superhawk perfectly.
Entire kit is pre-assembled. The installer only need remove old RR, bolt in place the new MOSFET RR, unplug the stator from the old wiring harness and plug in the new RR cabling provided. Add the charge cable ring terminals to your battery, zip tie cabling in place, replace tail cowl and go ride. This kit will come with 6mm battery terminals found commonly on lead acid type batteries. If you want the smaller 5mm terminals used with some Li Ion batteries just ask at the time you order.
This kit replaces all of the known problems with the VTR charging system. Melted plugs, burnt wires, Diode RR in the process gaining increased charge voltage to the battery. All protected in black PET wire sheathing or black heat shrink tube, marine rated circuit breaker. Ring terminals sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink tube which also provides a stress relief. No weak soldered joints all terminals are professionally crimped with the correct F and O crimps on wire / insulator with heat shrink tube stress relief on terminals where needed.
The kit comes standard with a genuine Shindengen FH020 MOSFET regulator / rectifier. The RR is a used unit from a late model bike, fully tested on both the bench and a running motorcycle. Short of physical damage from a crash, mishandling or fire there is an almost zero failure rate of this model RR when installed properly. Making used RR’s an excellent value. I can also provide new Shindengen FH020 MOSFET, RR’ or the newest design Shindengen switching style SH847 RR at decent price. If you want the latest and greatest Shindengen RR, a switching design that is believed to be easier on the VTR stator and has proven cure significant stator overheating on other model bikes with a known issue for burning up stators, I can offer an upgrade to the kit to a brand new Shindengen SH847 RR for $280.00 shipped
The only way to get more plug and play is if I put myself in the box and do the job for you.
Other kits requires soldering tools, experience to get a proper soldered joint, and they reuse the ancient OEM wiring harness components, undersized or just plain cheap wire with pore quality insulation. Other kits use cheap Chinese pattern part plastic connectors that are commonly seen broken in short time.
Some kits or installers use cheap butt connectors, unsealed plugs and even crimp on spade terminals for the RR connection instead of the correct sealed style Furukawa 250 QLW Series R&R Connectors. Or almost as bad, the right connectors, improper crimped.
All of these things lead to early RR failure, damaged batteries, melted wiring ect….. the MMS MOSFET RR kit avoids all of those pitfalls.
Also as part of your charging system upgrade, inspect the stator to wiring harness connector.
Only the stator connector half is important to ensure it is in good shape as the wiring harness side is no longer used. The stator to wiring harness connector is found to the rear of the gas tank, coming from the left side. It will be one of several in a bundle of connectors shrouded in a clear plastic protector. Disconnect the stator side from wiring harness and inspect the connector body for deterioration, heat damage and the terminals for corrosion.
If you need a new connector body or that and terminals just include that in your order, they are only an additional $2.50 for the set.
After installing the kit, you will have need to seal off (or use for an accessory) the old charge wires coming from the harness.
Here is a good way to do that.
A common mod for a verity of Honda's CBR600F, Blackbird CBR1100 ,VTR1000F and the VFR750 to name a few.
Triumph is also a brand that many have added thise RR to
FYI, for those of you who are looking to upgrade your stock RR, this is a fantastic kit, at a good price. I have one on my VTR and just installed another on my 990SMT this summer. Paid well above what Mr. Marquez is asking for this kit. Bought mine from RoadsterCycle similar this one here, and this is basically plug-n-play. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind when it comes your charging system. Good Luck with sale.
Erik,
Thanks for the fast shipping and the great value. Made a 1/4" alum. mount plate and installed it, sweet. Had to relocate my Flasher relay but I just unwrapped the loom down to the battery and rerouted the relay to the left side where there just happens to be another mounting tab. Great idea on the wire splice. The wire wrap makes it so much easier to solder. Do you tie Flys as well? LOL! I had an upgraded finned SH693 R/R but she still got a bit hot after going all LED. If anyone in SH land needs my old SH693 R/R it's theirs for shipping. HAPPY NEW YEAR!
I installed the FH020AA on my VFR 5 years ago, and even with the VFRs reputation for eating RRs, I have had zero charging issues for over 40k of hard touring running heated gear, heated grips and charging remote start battery packs at the same time. Zero issues. The price listed is very good and the peace of mind is worth every penny. Great offering E.Marquez
I know that the FH020AA are fairly big. How does it fit under the rear tail section bodywork?
I installed the FH020AA on my VFR 5 years ago, and even with the VFRs reputation for eating RRs, I have had zero charging issues for over 40k of hard touring running heated gear, heated grips and charging remote start battery packs at the same time. Zero issues. The price listed is very good and the peace of mind is worth every penny. Great offering E.Marquez
I know that the FH020AA are fairly big. How does it fit under the rear tail section bodywork?
The FH020AA fits with no interference issue what so ever .
And this is why you don't install a new MOFSET RR with substandard connections and procedures.
Just sent out another MOFSET kit, but this one went with extra wiring as the user melted a bunch or wiring in a botched "NEW HIGH OUTPUT" Ebay special non Shindengen RR install... He said it lasted almost 5 weeks before meltdown.
I'd like to add, do not go for the cheap chiniese copy. It's most likely Zener diode based and do not last.
Had one for about a year and it steadily increase to the voltage 14.9V. A bit high for my LiFe battery.
My used Ducati regulator (FH020-AA) works perferctly.
Recomended.
I'd like to add, do not go for the cheap chiniese copy. It's most likely Zener diode based and do not last.
Had one for about a year and it steadily increase to the current 14.9V. A bit high for me LiFe battery.
My used Ducati regulator (FH020-AA) works perferktly.
Recomended.
Not sure that is correct. A fully charged Li-ion would be ~16-16.8V (the reason Li-ion can be used with our dumb charging systems). Not saying that the Chinese RR is OK.
Not sure that is correct. A fully charged Li-ion would be ~16-16.8V (the reason Li-ion can be used with our dumb charging systems). Not saying that the Chinese RR is OK.
IN general 13.6-14.4v is a commonly cited voltage range for a charging system with a Li-Ion battery
Thanks for the info.
I was just making a comment that 14.9 really isn’t that high for a li-ion battery pack. As the full charge voltage of four cells in series would be well above that. Also not suggesting that 14.9 is an OK voltage for the RR to be putting out.
Thanks for the info.
I was just making a comment that 14.9 really isn’t that high for a li-ion battery pack. As the full charge voltage of four cells in series would be well above that. Also not suggesting that 14.9 is an OK voltage for the RR to be putting out.
This is not a Li-Ion battery but a LiFe or LiFePO4. Tweety has a lot of posts about it.
Absolute maximum before damaging these batteries are 14.8V
They have a voltage range from 12-14.7 V Perfect for the std 14.4V regulator. Leaving it .3V under max ensure no overcharge currents and no imbalance problems.
This is not a Li-Ion battery but a LiFe or LiFePO4. Tweety has a lot of posts about it.
Absolute maximum before damaging these batteries are 14.8V
They have a voltage range from 12-14.7 V Perfect for the std 14.4V regulator. Leaving it .3V under max ensure no overcharge currents and no imbalance problems.
My misunderstanding. I was thinking that the chemistry was NMC (LiNiMnCoO2).
This is not a Li-Ion battery but a LiFe or LiFePO4. Tweety has a lot of posts about it.
Absolute maximum before damaging these batteries are 14.8V
They have a voltage range from 12-14.7 V Perfect for the std 14.4V regulator. Leaving it .3V under max ensure no overcharge currents and no imbalance problems.
I enjoy Tweetys posts, his information is a bit dated, but most of it is still good. Avaibility of LiFePO batteries have come a ways since Tweety last posted, and these are no longer regulated to home built from individual cells.. That said, the manufactures of the current crop of LiFePO4 motorcycle batteries do not agree with your position of "the ideal charge voltage at 14.4 v." If you have a link to your source of that stated that as the ideal charge voltage, please post it, Id like to read the info.
Second, the "std 14.4V regulator." are you referring to the failure prone OEM diode based one? If so, then besides the common failure issues seen, the VTR that is charging at 14.4v with an original RR is a unicorn I've not met. 12.8 to 13.8 is the more common finding. So with 13.6-14.4v a common sited recommended charge voltage the commonly seen charge voltage on a stock VTR is substandard in many cases.
Folks upgrade to a MOSFET RR mostly for the reliability over the failure prone OEM diode based version, either preventative or to replace a dead one. Be it a dead older non finned or the "improved" finned one that still uses an unsealed connector and suspect wiring and is diode based.
I do agree, 14.9v (Id really need to know the amps at this V to be sure) is likely more than best for battery longevity. Not really an immediate failure causing voltage, but at the end of the Fast rate range (or over depending on the battery manufacture) Id rather see no more than 14.8, and ideally I'd like to see 14.6~14.7. But that is just my opinion based on actual use..not manufactures specific guidance.
If you have a link to the source of your preferred charge voltage of .3v under fast rate, please post, I’d love to read the info. As well as, at what C rate you’re suggesting .
Battery tender states only NO MORE than 14.8v charge voltage. A response to a tech email I sent states it is a longevity issues if it is being charged over 14.8v They do not have a recommended charge amp spec.
Shorai FAQ states "charging at 14.6-14.8V can help to improve capacity and slow the self-discharge rate" and " Your vehicle charging system should be working within standard spec (generally that means charging at 13.6-14.4 volts when running)" both implying a max charge voltage of 14.8v They too do not list a charge amp rate to go with those numbers. A tech question emailed to them has not yet been responded to.
EarthX FAQ states "13.3V – 13.9V." is an acceptable charge voltage, but your charger should not exceed 15v
In use over the last 5 years, charging a ballistic LiFePO4 battery and Shorai LiFePO4 batteries at 14.2-14.7v on my 4 bikes plus the many dozens I've installed MOSFET RR's on or sent MOSFET RR's to has worked perfectly. My two Shorai batteries are 3 & 5 years old now, my two Ballistic batteries are older than that.
So if charging at 14.7v shortens LiFePO4 battery life Im ok with it, as the service life I am getting coupled with the fast charge rate I want (and need) works perfectly for me.
Thanks for the info.
I was just making a comment that 14.9 really isn’t that high for a li-ion battery pack. As the full charge voltage of four cells in series would be well above that. Also not suggesting that 14.9 is an OK voltage for the RR to be putting out.
As seen in my last post as well as all of the current crop of LiFePO4 manufactures recommendations I have found on line 14.9 does exceed the recommended charge voltage..And the two manufactures that have so far responded to my inquiries stated it was a longevity issue, not a immediate or near term failure issue.
The highest I have seen on a MOFSET install I have done is 14.7v and that was my bike using a SH847 RR. Others have cited higher charge V but I'm wondering if it is a meter issue. I use two calibrated and certified Fluke meters to double check voltages and I can see a possibility a less expensive meter might read a .1 v or more higher / lower then reality.
I sent a tech info request to 4 major LiFePO4 manufactures only Shorai has responded so far.
The questions were
What is the Min required charge voltage and at what Amperage What is the Max allowed charge voltage and at what Amperage
What is the ideal charge voltage and at what Amperage
I received three email responses in just an hour.. One contained product info sheets the other two specific answers.
13.3V at idle 13.6-14.4V at 2000 rpm, although up to 14.7V is fine. No more than 15.2V at any time although above 14.8V it begins to suffer heat stress which lessens life span.
and
Erik I was also sent this by the lead tech for you: Min charge voltage @ what amperage 13.6V at 0.1CMax charge voltage @ what amperage 15.2V at 3C
and Ideal charge voltage @ what amperage 14.6V at 1C
I enjoy Tweetys posts, his information is a bit dated, but most of it is still good. Avaibility of LiFePO batteries have come a ways since Tweety last posted, and these are no longer regulated to home built from individual cells.. That said, the manufactures of the current crop of LiFePO4 motorcycle batteries do not agree with your position of "the ideal charge voltage at 14.4 v." If you have a link to your source of that stated that as the ideal charge voltage, please post it, Id like to read the info.
Second, the "std 14.4V regulator." are you referring to the failure prone OEM diode based one?
I did NOT mean the OEM regulator.
I agree in everything you say here EM. OEM, Voltages, reliabilty, availability... Spot on.
Even the ideal voltage you are correct, sort of.
When I state 14.4 V as an ideal voltage it is only based on Tweetys findings and my own reasoning. Using LiFe batteries without any BMS you don't have any balancing or finer current limiter for top charging. So you dont want to go near 14.7 - 8
Based on that and the fact that you have plenty of power at 14.4 V ~ 80% and Li batteries live longer when they don't have to do full load/charge cycles it's pretty close to ideal under the circumstances regardless of manufactures.
Most of them have BMS and have a product to sell. Arguing hard for an insignificant gain is close to the definition of marketing, not?
I am aware that LiFe batteries are much more robust than normal Li-Ion batteries when it come to overcharge. Mine are rated at max on 14.7, they are old now. It is A123 batteries demisjonere from radio/tv transmitter antennas.
But maybe that was not clear in my first post: I was using a fake china copy of the FH020-AA and it started fine at 14.4 V but months later it was at 14.8 V. This is very similar to how tweety described a runaway Zener diode based regulator. It has trouble strangling the current and output continue to increase with temperature and you are just about to get a thermal runaway as you often get on the FSXXX regulators. That's when I decided the charge voltage was too high and a change of regulator was overdue. To have a good regulator working at 14.6 - 14.7 is different.
have a waterproof $1.99 led display glued to the instrument cluster showing headlamp voltage at all times. Give me good control of regulator and even a warning that headlamp is off or broken.
And they are gone, last MOSFET RR I had went out in a kit today.
EDIT...Sorry...LAST RR I had on hand. Im always on the prowl for more.... just never know when they will pop up at a decent price.
Folks can always get the wiring kit and supply their own RR if they want or if I don't have an RR on hand.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 09-26-2018 at 06:03 PM.
Reason: Added
****. I just bought a '98 and heard such good things about this kit. Just got to your last post....anywhere else I can get this?
Last post? Ahhh, that was not worded well...
I have the wiring on hand and a few RR's inbound.
if you want one shipped today, contact Roadster Cycle he sells a nice kit, its a universal fit so not as clean install..and more $$$$ because your buying a brand new RR..But If I could not make my own, his is the only one Id buy.
Have a kit FH020 Kit available if someone is looking for MOSFET RR set up. I was asked to build a kit yesterday and did so this morning, only to have the buyer change his mind and back out of the deal.
Shoot me a PM and we can make it happen........ Other dudes loss, your gain
Have a kit FH020 Kit available if someone is looking for MOSFET RR set up. I was asked to build a kit yesterday and did so this morning, only to have the buyer change his mind and back out of the deal.
Shoot me a PM and we can make it happen........ Other dudes loss, your gain
And Sold.
I have stuff to make two more using the FH020 if any was is interested, message me. After that Im on hold again while I search out more RR's
Hi Erik, I am definitely interested if you still have the materials for another kit. Shipping would be to Western Australia, let me know if its possible. Thanks.
Hi Erik, I am definitely interested if you still have the materials for another kit. Shipping would be to Western Australia, let me know if its possible. Thanks.
12-02-2017, 09:45 AM
