Is your shifting sloppy?
02-04-2015, 08:48 AM
#1
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Is your shifting sloppy?
My recent purchase, a 2002 Superhawk with 6,000 miles has a lot of shifter slop in my opinion. My other bike is a brand new Kawasaki so maybe it isn't a fair comparison, but the shifting takes quite a long lift to engage. It does NOT jump out of gear and doesn't "miss" a gear, it just feels like you have to move the lever twice as much as normal. I see no slop in the linkages...I have raised the lever two notches so that my foot doesn't have to be pointing straight down. But now, I almost need to lift my foot off of the peg to shift. Bent shifter forks or ratchet? Normal? Thanks.
02-04-2015, 09:21 AM
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My recent purchase, a 2002 Superhawk with 6,000 miles has a lot of shifter slop in my opinion. My other bike is a brand new Kawasaki so maybe it isn't a fair comparison, but the shifting takes quite a long lift to engage. It does NOT jump out of gear and doesn't "miss" a gear, it just feels like you have to move the lever twice as much as normal. I see no slop in the linkages...I have raised the lever two notches so that my foot doesn't have to be pointing straight down. But now, I almost need to lift my foot off of the peg to shift. Bent shifter forks or ratchet? Normal? Thanks.
Mate rode mine that has a Gixxer. He couldnt believe how good the box is.
02-04-2015, 09:26 AM
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My recent purchase, a 2002 Superhawk with 6,000 miles has a lot of shifter slop in my opinion. My other bike is a brand new Kawasaki so maybe it isn't a fair comparison, but the shifting takes quite a long lift to engage. It does NOT jump out of gear and doesn't "miss" a gear, it just feels like you have to move the lever twice as much as normal. I see no slop in the linkages...I have raised the lever two notches so that my foot doesn't have to be pointing straight down. But now, I almost need to lift my foot off of the peg to shift. Bent shifter forks or ratchet? Normal? Thanks.
You will find some excess movement in the pivot bolt for the foot lever it had some brand new, and got worse as use piled up.
None of that is a guess... they all have it.
After that, could your shift fork pads that engage the slotted portion of the gears be worn causing excess movement? Absolutely to some small degree.
Its the death of a thousand cuts...IOW, all the little bits of excess slop combine to make the whole assembly feel sloppy.
Some of us have modified the connecting rod to use tighter spec rod ends, I did that and made a bushing for the shifter, reamed to size and trued and sized the pivot bolt for a very close fit between the two.. Worked out well.
I also have the full shift kit from Factory Pro and the custom lever from DMr...it all helps to make a tighter shift feel.
Start by adjusting the shift lever, then try the replacement rod ends.
Last edited by E.Marquez; 02-05-2015 at 10:45 AM.
02-05-2015, 08:22 AM
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Yeah adjust your shift lever.
Personally I ended up with this setup. Basically I tried to keep the arm on the sprocket as perpendicular as possible while shortening the length of the shift rod. This way there is no more clunkiness shifting 1st to 2nd gear, and 3rd to 6th gear are one click away. I was blown away by the difference it makes. This, next to new suspensions, will make the most radical improvement on your ride.
Personally I ended up with this setup. Basically I tried to keep the arm on the sprocket as perpendicular as possible while shortening the length of the shift rod. This way there is no more clunkiness shifting 1st to 2nd gear, and 3rd to 6th gear are one click away. I was blown away by the difference it makes. This, next to new suspensions, will make the most radical improvement on your ride.
11-12-2015, 06:33 AM
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I moved the lever so that it was slightly downward and even though I don't have an issue shifting, my wife still finds a neutral every time she shifts into second.
I have very large feet/ shoes and still the travel is excessive. I haven't had this thing apart. Is there a way to check out the shifter claw and drum with just the removal of a side cover. (Like a Kawasaki.)
I have very large feet/ shoes and still the travel is excessive. I haven't had this thing apart. Is there a way to check out the shifter claw and drum with just the removal of a side cover. (Like a Kawasaki.)
11-12-2015, 12:19 PM
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On the VTR engine, the shift star and ratchet mechanism hide behind the clutch; quite a lot of surgery to get in there from the look of the manual.
On my VTR I have to be pretty deliberate on the 1-2 shift otherwise I get a large clonk. The other gears are fine. I put it down to character.
On my VTR I have to be pretty deliberate on the 1-2 shift otherwise I get a large clonk. The other gears are fine. I put it down to character.
11-12-2015, 03:21 PM
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Shifting got allot to do with the rpm while you shift, especially noticeable in lower gears, if you shift in higher rpm than you use to, it may eliminate the clonkiness all together.
Took me a bit of getting use to after other bikes.
Took me a bit of getting use to after other bikes.
11-12-2015, 05:02 PM
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Read the final few comments in this thread (from me). I did heim joints, an aluminum shift rod, and a bronze bushing. No slop now.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...age-mod-16850/
James
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...age-mod-16850/
James
12-16-2015, 11:14 PM
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Remove the shift lever arm from the shaft that goes into your gearbox then load up the shaft by turning it clock wise from memory. Then refit the shift lever arm as perpendicular as possible.
This shortens the throw of the shift lever and makes for more positive changes.
I still did it with my rear sets and it works a treat.
This shortens the throw of the shift lever and makes for more positive changes.
I still did it with my rear sets and it works a treat.
12-18-2015, 08:10 AM
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Last edited by E.Marquez; 12-18-2015 at 08:15 AM.
12-18-2015, 01:21 PM
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From Factory Pro direct
http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html
Or a retailer
https://www.google.com/search?q=SHFT...ON-77&tbm=shop
12-18-2015, 02:05 PM
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12-18-2015, 02:40 PM
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From Factory Pro direct
http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html
Or a retailer
https://www.google.com/search?q=SHFT...ON-77&tbm=shop
http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html
Or a retailer
https://www.google.com/search?q=SHFT...ON-77&tbm=shop
Last edited by VTR1000F; 12-18-2015 at 02:42 PM.
12-18-2015, 03:56 PM
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12-21-2015, 03:00 AM
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It was over $200 from factory Pro and there is a wait for the parts to be manufactured.
Several places offered it cheaper, but none of them actually carried the parts anymore.
Several places offered it cheaper, but none of them actually carried the parts anymore.
Last edited by ZERO; 12-21-2015 at 03:04 AM.
12-21-2015, 03:03 AM
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(It never does that for me, but I have a size 14 shoe.)
I'm also looking into maybe shortening the actual lever.
02-22-2016, 02:46 AM
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I installed the shifter kit and it was the best, most worthwhile mod I have ever done.....on any bike. The difference is amazing.
Shorter shifts and much more positive engagements.
Shorter shifts and much more positive engagements.
04-25-2016, 08:52 AM
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https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...uctions-33725/
This may help as well, different bike but same process
http://www.factorypro.com/Install_pa...,Kaw,zx14.html
04-27-2016, 06:23 AM
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Any vendor set up as a FP retailer can order it for you. They may not advertise and put it on a web site... but if they sell FP products they can order this part for you,,,and You'll likely find a better price then form direct though FP
