ff

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...tegory_Code=HR


will these work? seems like a good price but are they cheaply made?

E.Marquez

From the description I just read at your link,, yes they will work
Two things to check,, make sure they are not Teflon lined (my mistake when i did this,, I forgot about the interference fit of the rod end ball when a liner is used)
the other is,, you'll need a low clearance fastener to attach them to the linkage.. as the stock set up uses a rod end with an integral stud. I found button head fasteners can work. or you can source rod ends with a stud

thedeatons

Did anyone ever get an exact spec on the Heim Joint needed for this upgrade?

I'm hoping for a Heim Joint that has a ball wide enough to not require a spacer...

Thanks!
James

E.Marquez

M6x1.0 left and right hand thread, male.

They really do not come in widths... Rod ends use a verity of spacers for off set and angular clearance.

There are of course spec manufactured for a specific application.... but you either need to find that one application that has what you want..or be ready to order a few thousand.

thedeatons

McMaster
McMaster-Carr

(See the Metric Stainless Steel version in M6 x 1.00)

Basically like this? Are yours 9mm wide?

James

E.Marquez

Likely NO not a good choice,
"They also have a PTFE liner that allows smooth ball rotation and reduces the need for lubrication"
I bought brand name (Aurora) PTFE lined rod ends at first thinking "smooth ball rotation and reduces the need for lubrication" then I got them and remembered why that was a bad plan.. the liner makes the ball VERY stiff to rotate.. yes it's smooth, and no it does not need lube.... but for this application the Resistance created by the PTFE liner makes it a no go.


One of these
POS6 Male Rod End 6mm Right Hand Ball Bearings:Rod Ends (Heim Joints)

and one of these
POS6L Male Rod End 6mm Left Hand Ball Bearings:Rod Ends (Heim Joints)

Or from McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#59935k422/=ooakn4
and
http://www.mcmaster.com/#59935k82/=ooakq6
works great on the early year aluminium shiftier shaft.

Then add a M6x1.0 30mm, M6x1.0a 20mm fastener, 2 ea M6 nuts, and a washer.

This set up works great in use with Jamie's shiftier.

If your using the OEM shiftier with the riveted ball /stud removed.. you will need a button head low clearance fastener for use on the shiftier end of the linkage and one more M6 nut.. The pics below show a socket head fastener.... it worked ok, but a button head would have been better.

thedeatons

Thanks for that update!

I am specifically wanting Stainless heims, but those links are great for specification purposes.


James

E.Marquez

Never seen a SS Rod end that did not have a liner.....Im sure they are out there, but not real common.

Perhaps this
McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr

and use a short stud to couple to the shifter rod..

Of Note,,, if your wanting SS for corrosion protection... the Zinc coated ones I have been using for years look as good as the day I installed them.. Ridding in rain and shine, dust and such.. No salt though if you ride in that kind of conditions.

thedeatons

Out of curiosity - Why are you using males? The shift linkage rod is male, so wouldn't you need a female?

Pedal Honda VTR1000F Super Hawk 1998 OEM Parts - Cheap Cycle Parts

Thanks!
James

E.Marquez

Because the early model aluminum shift rod is threaded female M6x1.0mm, so it requires Male threaded rod ends.

thedeatons

Okay, it just looked different in the microfiche... Thanks!

thedeatons

I wanted to update this thread with some useful info. So far not many people make stainless rod ends with no PTFE liner. There is a company in Germany called Fluro though, that is distributed in the USA by Maryland Metrics and PT INTL out of North Carolina. PT INTL has stock on the right hand thread version, part number EA 6 D-SS for RH, and EAL 6 D-SS for LH. They run about $55 each.

I'll update more as I get it....

James

thedeatons

More updates... Bob at Maryland Metric can get the same parts, 2-4 week lead time, for $28. These are the Fluro stainless steel rod ends. Just in case anyone needs this info...

James

thedeatons

Update to this thread. Found these nice rod ends on Ebay out of the UK. $20 shipped for both of them, M6 x 1.00 LH & RH Male Rod Ends. Also got the aluminum linkage rod. Just need to get some nuts, and the low profile hardware, then I'll switch everything over.


Ebay seller is mcgillmotorsports


The reasons I went with this particular rod end are:


2 piece with no bronze insert (simpler, less parts)
No zerk fitting to lube (less maintenance, and parts to break/leak)
Silver in color.




I'll eventually get it done and show you the results




James

thedeatons

Update: Installed everything today. Ground off the original rod ends (they need to be cut off on the backside, then also ground off on the backside. The front is countersunk, so you can't grind them down on the front), then I pushed the remains out.


After that I cleaned everything and fitted the M6x1.0x30mm black oxide hex head cap screws with nylock nuts on the back. There was some leftover bolt, and the angle was kind of severe, so I took up the slack with an aluminum spacer on each bolt (leftover Honda TRX250R radiator mounting spacers from an old quad I had).


The end result is pretty good, it looks nice I suppose.


There is more work to be done in this area though. I think I'll get the rearsets powdercoated, and the front shift actuator. That will set off the silver rod ends and shift rod....


Anyway, the mod works good. Next up is a needle bearing shifter conversion!


James

thedeatons

Update on this... I rode the bike tonight and I had actually forgotten about the shift linkage mod I did... I just took off like normal and shifted to second, AND WAS BLOWN AWAY! The shift was SOOOO precise! 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th... all the same!


All the sloppiness that I didn't even realize existed was suddenly gone.


This was one of the best $30 mods I've done so far.




James